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Is this gear contact pattern close?

DWinTX

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My first rear end rebuild and first time setting up gears, and I'm not really sure what I'm looking at. I have the backlash set to .007 but I can't really see a pattern like I see in the diagrams. What do you think?

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You need to paint all the teeth and spin the gears several times.
 
Just seen a video strange setting up a dana they painted about the same amount of teeth and spun it several times with a drill, looks like good contact on your pattern though
 
The amount greased is good, it's needs run around a bunch more. Painting all the gear will give some trouble since the grease will carry and build up and have no dissipation.
 
You do not have to apply it to all teeth.....Your pic of the above has enough applied. As another said you need to run it around a bit more and I also apply positive tension by grasping the carrier while spinning the yoke.....

North Dallas here as well!
 
OK thanks guys. Didn't think about using a drill, spinning it multiple passes or applying pressure to the carrier. I'll give those a try tomorrow and see if I can get something more definitive.
 
Good luck with it. Do you have build thread, love to see more of the Coronet. Thanks.
 
My first rear end rebuild and first time setting up gears, and I'm not really sure what I'm looking at. I have the backlash set to .007 but I can't really see a pattern like I see in the diagrams. What do you think?

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Your pinion looks a bit deep by the pattern. For a clearer contact pattern try coating the gears with a bit less indicator and over about 1/3 to 1/2 of the gears. Make sure the preload on the pinion is correct before mounting the innards. This is very important and most people skip doing this as it hard to measure. Use a published pattern chart for contact pattern and take your time, usually 3 to 4 hours. Remember your adjustments are in thousands of an inch and a dial indicator is a must to keep track of your adjustments.
 
It looks like you just turned it by hand. The trick is to apply force to the carrier using a large screwdriver or long round piece of rod steel and then turn the pinion gear with force. Only then a good contact pattern will show up.

Antoon
 
If you put the grease all the way around the gear, it'll help to see the pattern . . .

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I do have the pinion preload set and checked with an inch/lb beam torque wrench. It is at the mfg number of 25. For the depth, I used the Ratech tool:

http://www.ratechmfg.com/pinion setting tool.htm

After a lot of shim-swapping, I have it within .002 of the spec on every measure it.

Gave it another try. I put way less marking compound on this time and turned the pinion several revolutions with my drill. The first two are the initial try. I thought maybe I didn't have enough on there cause it seemed kinda dry, so I added a little more for the second two. They look similar.

the last pic is where I reversed the drill, because it seemed like the on the coast side in the other pics the compound wasn't really getting marked. What do you think?

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Good luck with it. Do you have build thread, love to see more of the Coronet. Thanks.

Haven't done one yet. I was trying to get the car going and then post the whole experience. I built the engine (stroker poly), trans and now the rear end. Also had to do a trunk floor and rear window channel, but we haven't painted the car yet. That'll come later, we want to drive it!
 

Here's another one using the Yukon Gear method in Mentor70's link (Thanks!). It says to turn the ring gear by hand letting the pinion preload put pressure on the gears, which probably has the same effect as MoparNation74 mentioned. This actually is starting to look like a pattern. I did have to turn the gear both directions to get the pattern on both sides. Is that normal?

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Yes you have to turn both ways. This way you can see the pattern on the drive side of the tooth and the coast side. There still is no good contact pattern visible. You have to cause drag between the housing and the drive gear using a large screw driver or piece of round iron rod.
You don't need to turn it around all the teeth. Apply the yellow paint thick on buth sides of 7-8 teeth on the point of least backlash. Apply force to the ring gear and turn the pinion shaft both ways through the painted teeth.

Antoon
 
Here's another one using the Yukon Gear method in Mentor70's link (Thanks!). It says to turn the ring gear by hand letting the pinion preload put pressure on the gears, which probably has the same effect as MoparNation74 mentioned. This actually is starting to look like a pattern. I did have to turn the gear both directions to get the pattern on both sides. Is that normal?

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Thought you were in my garage at a quick glance.

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OK, tried the screwdriver between the housing and gear. I do think it shows a more defined pattern. Seems to be fairly close to the pattern in "Illustration C" on the third page here:

http://api.motivegear.cartanium.com//files/parts/MGP_RP_Install.pdf

Mine is a Motive Gear and these are the instructions I got with them. Also looks close the first acceptable pattern in the Yukon link (Page 14):

https://www.yukongear.com/downloads/manuals/yukon_general_installation_instructions.pdf

Some of those acceptable patterns are odd. :eek:


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You now have a good visible pattern. I would leave it like this if you got this with the proper procedure. Correct pinion bearing preload with oiled bearings and correct backlash with preload on the shoulder bearings.

Antoon
 
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