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Hard to close door

dan juhasz

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Whiting NJ
Need some help, maybe I'm overlooking something. The drivers side door of the 67 RT requires a forceful close to get it to latch. It seems be be lined up nicely. Nothing hitting yet I usually need several attempts to close the door, window up or down makes little difference. Is the latch just worn out?
 
I had a similar problem on my GTX - wish I could remember in more detail exactly how I fixed it now. From memory it involved the white nylon slider in the door side mechanism. It had gotten sticky and I think maybe the front edge had been sort of blunted to where it sometimes just hit the body side receiver and would not ride up over it to close. I know I lubricated the white piece and worked it back and forth until it was moving again smoothly and I may have lightly sanded the lower front edge a little so as the door closed the nylon would ride up and over the receiver on the body and not just dead head it. But I believe the door striker has to be adjusted to where that white nylon will ride up over the body side receiver and it has to slide to the outside to allow the door to fully close and latch.

Best I can recall.
 
Passenger door exactly as you describe. Takes that little extra womp every time. If the striker is moved, it will mess up the perfect alignment. Living with it for 25 plus years. Good luck.
 
I've found that if you lube the plastic slider it will not operate correctly. It will let it slide back and bottom out before it slides up on the striker a dab of grease on top of the striker would be best.
 
Upper hinge pin in good shape?
Open the door and lift up on the handle, use your free hand on the underside of the door.
Any slop?
 
work some wd40 into the latch assembly.......it may be sticky in the open position........you may have to pull the door panel and squirt it on the inside
 
I have found that a little lube on the striker can help a lot. Also moving the striker a very small change can either help or make it worse. I seem to get the best results by rotating the striker either up a small bit or down a very small change.
 
Door latch striker is only the in or out door stop. It is not your up and down door alignment. The hinges are where you align the door up, down and angle of door to match quarter panel. Do not rely on the striker to pull up your door so your door matches the quarter panel. you will wear out parts.
If the door is aligned correct and still closes hard, usually it is because of new door seals that are too thick or latch is gummed up and needs cleaning, lube. The door should only have to overcome the latch spring and a little bit of door seal compression.
This is one area that I pay attention to, after seeing so many friends cars where you have to slam the door. It really gives a bad impression of the overall quality of car.
 
The factory service manual states to adjust the striker so that it lifts the door a bit
 
If that plastic slider gets bad enough. The door won't latch. I pushed mine back, and inserted a thin spacer to hold it back. Door works fine.
 
Besides the fact that the toothed gear has visible wear, I tinkered with the striker moving it ever so slightly and retightening. I eventually found a position that actually helped the door close. Tilting the striker made more of a difference than going up or down. I think the biggest problem are all the slightly worn teeth, the shaft and the rubbing blocks. But there are no replacement parts available.
 
If you grind the head off the pin it can be removed
 
It's main purpose would be to prevent metal to metal sliding contact when opening and closing the door and yes to keep it tight so it don't rattle. If you look closely it has a small spring on the pin behind it to push it forward when the door is opened. Also if you look at the way the striker is shaped on top the leading edge of it needs to just clear the nylon glider when the door is closed.
 
If that plastic slider gets bad enough. The door won't latch. I pushed mine back, and inserted a thin spacer to hold it back. Door works fine.
x2. Found that out after trying to adjust the striker for maybe two hours and was close to get mad. ;-)
 
The factory service manual states to adjust the striker so that it lifts the door a bit
STRIKER AND ROTOR
(All Models Except Valiant)
The door strikers (Fig. 39) are attached to the pillars.
Oversize holes permit up and down and in and
out movement. Fore and aft adjustment is made by
adding or removing shims between the striker and
post. The striker plate should be adjusted to lift the
door slightly.

Beekeeper is correct, and that is the way I adjusted my doors after hinge replacement. Anyone have an idea of what 'slightly' is height wise?
 
Bill could be 1/32-1/8"?? I would think 1/4" is more than slightly?
 
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