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anyone use one of these for brake bleed?

I've used one many times on my cars and friends cars, they are easy to use and work great and you can do it by yourself (bonus). You will have to remove some brake fuild from the master cylinder first because you will be forcing brake fluid up to the master cylinder to remove the air that is trapped in the system. Air want to rise. It takes about ten minutes to do a car. Just a reminder that you will have to remove some of the fluid in the master cylinder as you press more fluid into the master cylinder or you will have a mess, once completed check to see if you need to fill up the brake fluid in the master cylinder.
 
Thanks for the reply, moes. I've read some reviews and got a big mixed bag of 'doesn't work and messy' to 'best tool in the world'.

BTW, I've seen about a 40% price variation on this same brand kit from various suppliers.

I'll sleep on it before I order.
 
Bought a pressure bleeder a few months back. Works great on new style MCs, not so much on the older cast ones. Had to fab a plate about the same size and drill/ tap for the hose to connect... nicesy part is you dont ever have to worry about running mc dry as the reservoir is 1 gallon..

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another tip is to use slow even strokes on the gun, If you pump it really fast you are going to get a geyser of brake fluid all over your engine area (trouble). Mine has a attachment for new master cylinder bench bleeding and you can use it to bleed a new master cylinder while it is on the car to. i like to reverse bleed the wheel cylinder or caliper first, then I reverse the hose connections on the gun to pull the fluid down a couple of pumps to make sure there is no air trapped in the top of the caliper or wheel cylinder. You get a rock hard pedal with great pedal feel for the brakes. It is worth the investment and you can loan it to your friends to do there cars to.
 
Lots of mixed reviews on various web sites. Some say the pump handle breaks after the first use, others say it's too hard and cumbersome to pump, etc.

My local brake shop friend isn't impressed. He says if you've got the time gravity bleed.
 
Billccm said:
Lots of mixed reviews on various web sites. Some say the pump handle breaks after the first use, others say it's too hard and cumbersome to pump, etc.

My local brake shop friend isn't impressed. He says if you've got the time gravity bleed.
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I've been using the gravity method since the 70's and it's worked fine for me.....
 
Not everybody likes gravity bleeding, it will not work on everything. It will work on most and can be done(pull master cylinder cover off) by yourself. I also like using a brass hammer tapping on calibers to get that last pesky air bubble out. Gravity bleeding adds no extra cost, other then brake fluid.
 
AMX364 said:
Not everybody likes gravity bleeding, it will not work on everything. It will work on most and can be done(pull master cylinder cover off) by yourself. I also like using a brass hammer tapping on calibers to get that last pesky air bubble out. Gravity bleeding adds no extra cost, other then brake fluid.
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What doesn't it work on? ABS stuff? Worked on everything I've tried it with but never tried it on ABS systems.....
 
Cranky said:
What doesn't it work on? ABS stuff? Worked on everything I've tried it with but never tried it on ABS systems.....
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I've used it on more ABS systems than conventional. No difference really.

Should qualify that it isn't a problem as long as there isn't a separate ABS fluid reservoir. In which case a special tool is needed to drain that. If cross-contamination isn't an issue and you don't care if the ABS reservoir is drained, then gravity bleeding is still a viable solution.
 
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I've tried pressure bleeders, pump method, etc and gravity has always worked the best for me. Heck I've even done all 4 wheels at the same time - real time saver.
 
HT413 said:
I've tried pressure bleeders, pump method, etc and gravity has always worked the best for me. Heck I've even done all 4 wheels at the same time - real time saver.
Click to expand...

Same here. And if there is still a soft peddle, I'll do one at a time, making sure your bleader hose is submerged in fluid, and give the peddle a full pump or two. You won't suck any air into the system if the hose is submerged. Any air will rise to the top of the container.

ABS systems can be a pain sometimes. A lot of them require breaking loose some connections (lines) at the unit to get that pesky bubble out.
 
I have one and it suffers from the same issues as the vacuum bleeders - if air leaks around the bleeder screws they will introduce air to the system. I've found speed bleeders with thread sealer on them to be a big time saver and avoid a lot of frustration. At the very least - before bleeding - pull your regular bleeder screws out and put a little non-hardening thread sealer coating on them first and reinstall. It should help avoid a lot of headaches.
 
I tried and failed using a vacuum bleeder. The hose in the kit split and the fittings sucked. This was an oem unit too. Horrible time bleeding when air leaks are present in the set up.

My bleed kit is a length of clear hose, through a one way valve, into an empty water bottle. Drape the line over the tire to keep a high point in the line, hook it up and pump. One way valve keeps any air from going back in, air bubbles float to the top.
 
threewood said:
My bleed kit is a length of clear hose, through a one way valve, into an empty water bottle. Drape the line over the tire to keep a high point in the line, hook it up and pump. One way valve keeps any air from going back in, air bubbles float to the top.
Click to expand...
YEP. I had four vitamin water bottles at each bleeder with tight fitting clear hoses. Bleeders OPEN! Could not get even a drip last night into any bottles. Pumping pedal did nothing. Bench bled the master twice. Cracked lines into proportioning block. Nothing.

Another master cylinder is on it's way from Dr Diff. Won't get back to the car until mid June. Thanks for the help!
 
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