Lee Hulan
Member
Used one of my bid old gear puller, a little heat and they came right off. New bearings and carrier with 323's. Doing burn outs soon. Thanks for all the input and help guys!!! This is a great site!!
Help please!!
- Thread starter Lee Hulan
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Follow these instructions ... http://hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html
black64
Well-Known Member
Don't know if there are others I just relayed what I found for doing my 64.
62 Dart Convertible
Well-Known Member
If you look at OPs pics, this conversion has already been done by a previous owner.... (and recently followed by me on my car too - thanks to Centerline for writing that article!)
Rick62
Well-Known Member
Good catch. It seems I was sleeping at the controls!
Centerline
Well-Known Member
Dr. Diff has the parts needed to convert your tapered axle to the '65 and later version, but not much for maintaining the tapered axles. I called him looking for tapered axle spacers and he said no one makes them anymore. They're easy enough to make but generally speaking, if you just need the parts to maintain your tapered axle (bearings, seals etc) Rock Auto has that stuff.
Personally, once the brake conversion has been done I see no real reason to convert to the later axles, UNLESS you will be doing some serious racing. Although the tapered axles are strong, (they held up fine in the Max Wedge cars) but it is a bit easier to swap gears and set up the diff with the later axles.
Personally, once the brake conversion has been done I see no real reason to convert to the later axles, UNLESS you will be doing some serious racing. Although the tapered axles are strong, (they held up fine in the Max Wedge cars) but it is a bit easier to swap gears and set up the diff with the later axles.
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The dilemma with my '62 taypered axel rear, is the "open" 2.76 center section. Those axels are about an eighth of an inch longer than one that had a sure grip center section. So changing to a sure grip, you have to have the shorter axels or machine off the appropriate amount to use the "open" centered ones.
I have a 742, 3.23 sure grip that I want to use. I also found a '70 axel housing. It's a bit wider than the '62 housing and I never liked the looks of the off set wheels you have to use with the wider housing, or using a regular backspaced wheel and having them sticking out so far. So I'm going to pursue useing aftermarket axels, green bearings, backing plates and 2 1/2" drums in the origanal housing. Wish me luck!
I have a 742, 3.23 sure grip that I want to use. I also found a '70 axel housing. It's a bit wider than the '62 housing and I never liked the looks of the off set wheels you have to use with the wider housing, or using a regular backspaced wheel and having them sticking out so far. So I'm going to pursue useing aftermarket axels, green bearings, backing plates and 2 1/2" drums in the origanal housing. Wish me luck!
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As I stated in my last post, if your origanal center section is a "open" one, those axels will be longer than one that came with a sure grip center. You won't be able to adjust your end play with the longer axel.
grubby65
Well-Known Member
A little heat and the correct puller will get the hubs off. But as stated before be careful, when the "pop" off they can be dangerous. I have the correct puller, but I also fabricated one that is pretty simple. I have used the fabricated one for two different vehicles that is why the different sets of holes.
hogpowr
Well-Known Member
I saw your post about removing the old tapered style hubs. I assume you are going to replace it with a modern rearend / axle setup and eliminate the old tapered hubs.
if so, do you want to sell the hubs? I'm looking just for the hubs themselves with the castle nut. Would buy both sides if you want to sell them?
Cornpatch MO
Well-Known Member
Let me know if you still need these parts. I have the complete 1964 third member.....................MO
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