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10.95 stage 1 vs 11.75 stage 2 brake set up

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peakandscoot

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Does anyone have first hand knowledge in the difference between 10.95 and 11.75 front disk brakes. I am converting my 62 fury to disk brakes and the difference in price is 445 vs 600. I'm not against paying the extra money but don't want to waste either by over building. Its a convertible so its more of a cruiser than a racer however it does have a 383 so its a little beefy.
 
bigger caliper bracket and bigger rotor for the 11.75 front disk brakes, eveything else is the same, that's it
 
For a cruiser, save your money. I converted my 70 Sport Satellitte to 10.95 disc brakes from drum brakes and they work great, difference is like night and day
 
Do it Once, Do it right ! Spend the money now trust me you wont regret it
 
The caliper is no larger on the larger rotors. Only the rotor is larger. Contact area is the same as is clamping force. What you have with the larger rotor is a tad more "leverage". The caliper adapters for each are different. For the small rotors they're a dime a dozen, but the prices jump significantly for the large rotors. $75 a pair was the norm a few years back for pin style. Now, if you can find a pair, they're $150. and up. The rotors themselves are equally priced and readily available - RockAuto offer a wide selection of levels of quality.

I would bet you'd never notice the difference between the two sizes.
 
I would bet you'd never notice the difference between the two sizes.


The larger 11.75 rotor has 1/3 more surface area then the 10.95 rotor. The 11.75 rotor can exorb more thermal energy then the 10.95 rotor will and you get around 20-25 percent more stopping power. You will notice the difference!
 
moes said:
The larger 11.75 rotor has 1/3 more surface area then the 10.95 rotor. The 11.75 rotor can exorb more thermal energy then the 10.95 rotor will and you get around 20-25 percent more stopping power. You will notice the difference!
Click to expand...

Rotor surface area doesn't do squat when the pads are the same size. Thermal energy ... its a street car, not a full time road racer !! I don't see 20-25% more stopping power, all you're doing is moving the pad contact patch further out from the center.

The additional cost is not justified.

If you REALLY want to know the difference PM me with your email address and I'll send you a "brake math calculator"
 
Stanton said:
Rotor surface area doesn't do squat when the pads are the same size. Thermal energy ... its a street car, not a full time road racer !! I don't see 20-25% more stopping power, all you're doing is moving the pad contact patch further out from the center.

The additional cost is not justified.

If you REALLY want to know the difference PM me with your email address and I'll send you a "brake math calculator"
Click to expand...



Frictional clamping force from the caliper can only practically be increased so much so as to not dramtically increase rotor wear and pad wear. A larger rotor can more easily stop the car than a smaller rotor given the *same* frictional surface area *and* clamping force. A simple analogy turn you ceiling fan on high - get it going good and fast - then try stopping it by using your hand as close to the motor as you can and time how long it takes. Next, with you remaining working hand start the fan again and try stopping it from the edge of the fan blade. Note the difference and ease of performing it from the edge.
 
moes said:
Frictional clamping force from the caliper can only practically be increased so much so as to not dramtically increase rotor wear and pad wear. A larger rotor can more easily stop the car than a smaller rotor given the *same* frictional surface area *and* clamping force. A simple analogy turn you ceiling fan on high - get it going good and fast - then try stopping it by using your hand as close to the motor as you can and time how long it takes. Next, with you remaining working hand start the fan again and try stopping it from the edge of the fan blade. Note the difference and ease of performing it from the edge.
Click to expand...

Moment arm. Same principle as using a longer ratchet, wrench, etc.
 
NJRR said:
Moment arm. Same principle as using a longer ratchet, wrench, etc.
Click to expand...









yep.

This is why they installed the 11.75 rotor on the C body cars back in the late 60s, 440 + big heavy car, makes for a hard time stopping.
 
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From where you live, you are mostly in the same area as I am in the Houston area.....flat land. I had no problem stopping a 10.60 car at the old Houston track using 11" drums which had a short shut off. Yeah, disc brakes are always better but the question is do you really need them? How heavy is your car and how hard do you drive it? I terrorize my cars but with the right parts, drums did the job. Factory drum brakes suck with the stock crap and so do disc brakes. Take it from there. Huge disc brakes are not needed imo for normal to 'spirited' driving even with a 383 that's a bit beefy. My old 71 340 Cuda did more than fine in the stopping department with factory front disc and rear 10" drums (with better pads/shoes) with a better than mild 340. The car was 3560 in weight....
 
moes said:
A larger rotor can more easily stop the car than a smaller rotor given the *same* frictional surface area *and* clamping force.
Click to expand...

I'm not arguing that point all all - just look at my first post (although I refer to it as "leverage"). My argument is that this gain is minimal and unnecessary for the application relative to the added expense. Hell, he could put huge carbon fiber rotors on there with 6 piston calipers that would stop him on a dime and give nine cents change - but is it necessary and worth the cost ?!?!
 
Stanton said:
I'm not arguing that point all all - just look at my first post (although I refer to it as "leverage"). My argument is that this gain is minimal and unnecessary for the application relative to the added expense. Hell, he could put huge carbon fiber rotors on there with 6 piston calipers that would stop him on a dime and give nine cents change - but is it necessary and worth the cost ?!?!
Click to expand...







Not to argue but did you read my post #4 (For a cruiser, save your money. I converted my 70 Sport Satellitte to 10.95 disc brakes from drum brakes and they work great, difference is like night and day). I was just replying to what you said and stating you will notice the difference between 11.75 rotor and a 10.95 rotor for stopping ability.
 
Dang, boys. At ease. I'd say as a cruiser, your drum brakes are more than sufficient but I get the desire for discs.

On a panic stop, yeah, you'll appreciate that extra leverage... unless you lock em up and start skidding... then it's all on the tires. Normal cruising, all that extra leverage means you just need less pedal force for the same braking power, which you'll appreciate every time you hit them, especially if your brakes are manual.

All that for $155 extra. Is it worth it? If money's tight, maybe not but otherwise I'd say it's a no brainer.

I suppose though with a 62, a larger rotor might interfere with some oem wheels? Might wanna check her out.
 
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Not many still run 14 inch wheels but I wonder if the 11.75 inch rotors will allow the calipers to clear the wheels in case you still do?
 
large rotor will need a 15 inch rim
 
Thanks for all the input i am going to be running a bigger rim. I know if your changing the spindles you need to go 15s or larger. They do make a kit that will allow you to use your spindles and run 14s but its more money and i never had any intention on using 14s anyway. After talking with DoctorDiff i ended up with the 11.75 for a little extra. Hell he gave me the drilled and slotted for no extra charge. I will let everyone know how it worked out. Thanks again.
 
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