• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Header bolt #2 cyl - WTH !

mopar505 said:
whats the size and thread count on that, Pretty sure i have several spares
Click to expand...

I need 5/16 x 18. 3/4" long would be ideal, but i can cut to length. Hex needs to be no more than 5/16" wrench size.
 
Just bought this bolt and will give it a try on lunch today... Not my first choice, but gotta start somewhere.

IMG_5173.JPG
 
Do you have a set of crowfoot sockets?
Or perhaps some half moon wrenches?
Or perhaps you need to sacrifice an open box wrench. Cut it and weld it at a 45 or 90 degree angle.
 
BeeKool said:
Do you have a set of crowfoot sockets?
Or perhaps some half moon wrenches?
Or perhaps you need to sacrifice an open box wrench. Cut it and weld it at a 45 or 90 degree angle.
Click to expand...

I have all those, but they won't work. It's not the access to the bolt that is the problem. Its room around the bolt to actually turn it. As soon as you slide the open end of a wrench onto the bolt and turn it, the jaws hit the tube of the header and push the wrench off the hex.
 
Drill through the header and weld in a sleeve so you can get a straight shot at it! Lol

Get a reduced head (3/8") header bolt and put that sucker in first. My RB 1 7/8" header is the same way but I can get a small 3/8" wrench in there.
 
Tori said:
I have all those, but they won't work. It's not the access to the bolt that is the problem. Its room around the bolt to actually turn it. As soon as you slide the open end of a wrench onto the bolt and turn it, the jaws hit the tube of the header and push the wrench off the hex.
Click to expand...
You can't even get 1/16th or 32nd of a turn with the plug and wire removed and a shorty wrench.. Sounds more like a Ford problem...
Best of luck.
Perhaps do some grinding to the jaws of a wrench.
 
threewood said:
Drill through the header and weld in a sleeve so you can get a straight shot at it! Lol

Get a reduced head (3/8") header bolt and put that sucker in first. My RB 1 7/8" header is the same way but I can get a small 3/8" wrench in there.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that crossed my mind before. I had the same problem with the headers on a 440 in a class c motorhome. Considering how deformed the tube was from beating on it to get some clearance, i honestly don't think a a sleeve in the tube could **** up flow anymore than a tube being manhandled with a ball peen hammer....yep, a sleeve just large enough to accomodate the shank of a torx or allen.
 
The header design is the bane of my existence. Not only does it cover the exhaust bolt perfectly it also makes changing the plugs on #5 and #7 a pain in the ***.

As for the bolt itself, once you get the headman bolts in there you will be able to take 1/16 turns on it. Flipping the wrench each time. I also use a crows foot and an extension to torque it up with a torque wrench. Remflex headers are great and they only require 20ftlbs to torque correctly.
 
Bladecutter said:
Yeah, that crossed my mind before. I had the same problem with the headers on a 440 in a class c motorhome. Considering how deformed the tube was from beating on it to get some clearance, i honestly don't think a a sleeve in the tube could **** up flow anymore than a tube being manhandled with a ball peen hammer....yep, a sleeve just large enough to accomodate the shank of a torx or allen.
Click to expand...
I'm kinda wondering why a motor home would have headers instead of manifolds.
The doghouse and inside of that motor home would be hot as hell.

As a kid growing up our motor home was a Dodge cruise air with a 440. With plain 'ol manifolds it got hot inside That thing whilst drivin'
 
Headers on a motorhome are very common. For power gains and because the manifolds overheat and crack. So there's two reasons people were installing them.
 
IMO The 12 pt heads are far better in tight areas
a lot more ways to get a 3/8th in. box wrench on them
ARP sells them like $18 5/16"-18 x 3/4 or 1" with 12 pt head
in either black oxidized {prone to rust} or stainless steel
that's if;
if you can get into the area enough, to get the box wrench over it
if you need to use crows feet etc. you'll need to go with
the six point/hex head design
in a 3/8's head for some added clearances

Stage 8 sells some decent header-bolts with a locking mech.
so you don't have to constantly retighten em'...
I various style...

good luck
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

fine69
In a tight spot
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
WileERobby
WileERobby
Nismobishi
Leak at trans bolt on rear of 727?
Replies
8
Views
2K
Nismobishi
Nismobishi
David Womby
How to get leverage on this shallow bolt head?
2
Replies
38
Views
3K
David Womby
David Womby
mavwreck
Hydro Clutch conversion
Replies
5
Views
247
Sam69sat
S
J
Any thoughts about how to get this out?
2
Replies
36
Views
2K
Big bill
Big bill
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top