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Replacing Power Steering Gear Box - Any Tips?

PurpleBeeper

PurpleBeeper

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The factory service manual doesn't say how to replace the power steering gear box itself. It "looks" straight forward....drop center link, remove pitman arm, pull back column (or coupler), un-bolt & replace.

HOWEVER, when I did this last time (converting manual to power steering) I think I pried the steering coupler off the gear box with a pickle fork & broke my steering column shear pins. That was a PIA to fix those & I don't want to repeat that mistake.

Any tips you guys can share with me to replace a power steering gear box without breaking those plastic column shear pins is APPRECIATED GREATLY! I'm going to try to do that this evening after work. THANK YOU!
 
carefully remove and pull, the book reads to not hammer or force you will break the crash shears, pull it back in to the drivers seat I removed my power steering gear from under the car, had to put it back in from above by removing the exhaust manifold, I did not have a lift so raising it from under the car was too hard laying on my back, new manifold gasket , sealer on the stud an everything was normal. I my steering gear to: Stear and Gear, about 280.00 with shipping back in 2012
 
themechanics' link is right on. I've removed the box from the Coronet and Dart and it is pretty straightforward. Disconnect the neg batt cable because you'll be working around the under dash wiring.
Driving the roll pin out might be the most time consuming part - lots of penetrating oil the night before and then a center punch should do the trick. It's easier with two people - one pulling on the steering wheel while the other (gently) pries on the coupler.
 
Post #2--- plus don't drop it on your fingers!
 
Thanks guys. This power steering box is only about 1-1/2 years old, so nothing is rusty/stuck. I have a punch the exact size of the roll pin. I don't have another person to help me, so I will tread gingerly removing the coupler.
 
Pull the small pin out of the coupler that holds the blocks in. Pull the seal retainer off. Unbolt the column and pull the whole thing out of the coupler.

Now you can do whatever you want and take the coupler off at your leisure on the bench.
 
themechanic said:
Get the new coupler seal while you are at it. Better design and a lot easier to install.

http://www.steerandgear.com/chrysler-online-catalog
Click to expand...

That's a sweet part I didn't know about. I decided last night to buy one of those "locking spring thingies" that dealers would install after working on steering couplers. Mine does have a tendency to pop off a little.

Last night I got all the way down to the next step being taking the box out itself. I couldn't find my 1-5/16" socket (& parts stores didn't have one), so that's on order.

The battery tray/ps pump removal idea is a good one & so was the "just loosen & slide back the column" idea. My shear pins are intact. THANKS GUYS!
 
I did this a long time ago on my GTX and probably was very lucky to not run into any major problems with the coupler. It is a tight getting the box in and out from underneath. Only issue I had was the mount bolts would loosen up after I reinstalled it. I believe I finally put some threadlocker on them and they have been good since.
 
I just saw they pro
PurpleBeeper said:
That's a sweet part I didn't know about. I decided last night to buy one of those "locking spring thingies" that dealers would install after working on steering couplers. Mine does have a tendency to pop off a little.

Last night I got all the way down to the next step being taking the box out itself. I couldn't find my 1-5/16" socket (& parts stores didn't have one), so that's on order.

The battery tray/ps pump removal idea is a good one & so was the "just loosen & slide back the column" idea. My shear pins are intact. THANKS GUYS!
Click to expand...
Yep. Works like a charm.

IMG_0003.JPG
 
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