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3/8 fuel line to factory carb lines

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Here's my Six Pack set up,Mechanical linkage
 
This is the
ORIGINAL LINKAGE from BACK IN THE DAY
 
I found nothing jumping thru the 3/8" line hoop; but i always wanted to make a set. power is in the pump. you can't increase volume without upping pressure (unless there's some sort of restriction in the 5/16" line and its usually at the double flare). i found it to be a juggling act if you drive the car a bunch. the pump is where i'd put my time and money first.
LEW
Back then I ran a STEWART WARNER ELectric fuel pump in the trunk to the pump on the block, maintaining 7-12 lbs does that sound right?
 
Nice LEW! I have the original Direct Connection as in the above photo as that is my six pack,
I like the A+N with the braided stainless I was also going to install an in line pressure guage?
LEW is it advantageous to go to 3/8?
Thanks LEW + Six Pack BTW my fuel lines are on the same side as the linkage.
Mitch
i have a friend who has my old mech carbs and uses a braided hose and AN fittings. i think it's a pain in the butt for servicing the carbs but he thinks it's cute. if it were me i'd do a fuel log. you can do a 3/8" line to the log and 5/16" hose connections to each carb.

as a thought i went out to the garage and did a basic flow test with my parts washer. the parts washer only does 3-4lbs pressure. i stuck a brass fitting in the hose that is .250" i.d. to simulate the i.d. of 5/16" tube. it pumped a gallon in 50 seconds. if this was fuel at the carbs it would support well over 600hp. full throttle road tests on one my cars (app. 500hp), with pressure gauge and 5/16" line, showed the fuel pump to be the main player. i was getting 2psi at high rpm. re-worked the pump to get 4psi WOT and power gains were very noticeable.

another thought is the needle and seat assembly. everybody wants to go big and stock is .110" for all 3 carbs. we know two .110" in a big 4bbl can make big power with a high flow single plane intake. i think the three .110" may not give good fuel control. if i do this again i'll step back to .101". quick fuel had a tech article about .110" being a little large. three .101" have more area at the seat than two .110" and the majority of us can't come close to using all the fuel two .110" can flow.
 
LEW
Back then I ran a STEWART WARNER ELectric fuel pump in the trunk to the pump on the block, maintaining 7-12 lbs does that sound right?
those old stewart pulse pumps didn't flow very good, 40gph i think. that's why racers used two of them. maybe your gauge wasn't accurate?
 
the vacuum carbs should treated as a vacuum 4bbl with two extra barrels, not much more than that.

the mechinicals were a fix for the '69 carbs that didn't open quit as well as the '70-'71 carbs. i'd treat them as something like an 850dp with a small cruise carb adder. something to think about on the mechanicals is that they have nearly identical venturi area and flow to a 1050 dominator.

for those using a mech fuel pump; the hp440's (4bbl or 6pak) used a different pump. it was an 8-9lb two valve pump but the return orifice in the vapor separator must have controlled the pressure. a 9lb three valve carter can be controlled by the return orifice size. they do have wild pressure fluctuations at low rpm but can be settled into a managable pressure by 2000rpm.
 
As usual great info LEW thanks,
 
i have a friend who has my old mech carbs and uses a braided hose and AN fittings. i think it's a pain in the butt for servicing the carbs but he thinks it's cute. if it were me i'd do a fuel log. you can do a 3/8" line to the log and 5/16" hose connections to each carb.

as a thought i went out to the garage and did a basic flow test with my parts washer. the parts washer only does 3-4lbs pressure. i stuck a brass fitting in the hose that is .250" i.d. to simulate the i.d. of 5/16" tube. it pumped a gallon in 50 seconds. if this was fuel at the carbs it would support well over 600hp. full throttle road tests on one my cars (app. 500hp), with pressure gauge and 5/16" line, showed the fuel pump to be the main player. i was getting 2psi at high rpm. re-worked the pump to get 4psi WOT and power gains were very noticeable.

another thought is the needle and seat assembly. everybody wants to go big and stock is .110" for all 3 carbs. we know two .110" in a big 4bbl can make big power with a high flow single plane intake. i think the three .110" may not give good fuel control. if i do this again i'll step back to .101". quick fuel had a tech article about .110" being a little large. three .101" have more area at the seat than two .110" and the majority of us can't come close to using all the fuel two .110" can flow.
So would you say use the same set up as above except go to 3/8?
 
So would you say use the same set up as above except go to 3/8?
the problem with my friends set up is a "banjo" type fitting that connects directly to the float bowl. to play with the carbs this fitting is always removed and re-installed working the threads in bowl plus minor alignment issues that wreck the threads. do some kind of connection at the carbs that's easier on the expensive parts. i did a fuel log on my quads by using hose connections for ease of maintenance.
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I GOT YA!! THANKS LEW!!!
 
a log with hose connections at that carbs makes things so simple. once i made a log for vacuum carbs once upon a time, but truthfully i never had an issue with factory style plumbing ONCE i developed a good maintenance system to keep myself honest.
 
Haha I had to laugh at "KEEP MYSELF HONEST" isn't that the truth for all of us!!!
I'm still laughing as I do the SAME THING!
 
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