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To cold

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steve from staten island

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I posted about lack of heat in my car. Its a new build and I'm working the bugs out. What happened was i think the car is not getting hot enough. Don't ask as I'm to embarrassed to tell but the water supply heater hose to the water valve came off with the car running and hot. I got a face full of hot anti freeze. The pressure behind it was like a broken water supply pipe, i was surprised at how much pressure the pump puts out. The car was running for awhile and while the water was hot, it was not hot enough to burn me. I refilled the system and with a rag covering the intake of air to the rad in a small garage i still cannot get the water temp past half way on the gage. When i got it into the beginning of the part of the gauge were it would be operating temp the air from the heater did start to heat up.....So I'm thinking at the half way point on the gauge the air would be hot. The engine is a stock 383, it was a factory air car and came with a 26 inch rad plus when i had the rad done over it got a 3 core. I dont recall what temp the thermostat is but i know its not higher temp. Im pulling it tonight to check
Im really thinking this car has a to high capacity cooling setup and is running to cold. Now when i was charging the AC and had the car running in my one car garage when it was 95 degrees outside it still didn't get to the operating part on the gauge.
What do you think as i just dont know and thanks
 
texas69bee said:
Temp sensor bad.
Click to expand...
Sending unit is bad? How would that affect water in cooling system not getting hot enough? The car was running long enough and should have been hot enough when i got sprayed with anti freeze i should be in the hospital for third degree burns to my face. Luckily it wasn't hot enough. My thinking is i need a higher temp thermostat.
 
My bad, I reread your post. I caught the part that it was hot but didn't catch the part of not hot enough on the first go round. What brand of thermostat are you using? I switched over to a Stant after reading past problems. The Stant is designed to help burp the system. Similar to drilling a hole in a thermostat.
What temp of thermostat are you using?
 
Pick up a infrared temp gun and shoot it at the bottom and top of the radiator to see what it is really doing. Harbor Freight has them for under $20 if you don't want to buy a name brand.
 
texas69bee said:
My bad, I reread your post. I caught the part that it was hot but didn't catch the part of not hot enough on the first go round. What brand of thermostat are you using? I switched over to a Stant after reading past problems. The Stant is designed to help burp the system. Similar to drilling a hole in a thermostat.
What temp of thermostat are you using?
Click to expand...
Thanks. i dont remember the temp will be pulling it out tomorrow
 
About the lowest t-stat available is a 160* , instead of a rag over rad. just turn on the a/c; that hot condenser oughta warm the rad up a little, especially inside the garage.
 
I cannot get hot air out of heater. Water valve works, 180 degree thermostat has car running hotter. I have a Classic Air system and now a tech rep tell me the connections are backwards. I had them that way before but still no heat. Will switch them back tomorrow and give another try. Heater core is clear btw
 
Make sure you have the hoses right. Then make sure your dampner doors are opening and closing all the way when you change it from hot to cold and from floor to defrost. You'll have to look under the dash at the mechanism and watch it operate. If they aren't traveling all the way it will let the air coming through the heater core mix with outside air, cooling the heated air down.

Also make sure that the control valve is operating. It should be opening all the way to let the coolant circulate through the core.

You can also check each hose at the firewall for temperature while it's running. Touch them with your hand and you will feel what's hot or not.

Good luck...
 
Is the heater core actually clear?
I have a daily driver Toyota which had blocked cores in the heater radiator, and the interior would not heat up at all. I managed to clear the blockage and clean out the rust, only to find the core had holes also. New heater core, and all is well now.
You should be able to undo the inlet and outlet of your heater core, and run water from your garden hose through the core - if rusty muck comes out, you'll need to flush it or consider having it removed for repairs.
Remember, the water needs to flow through the heater core at all times. Whether or not the heat is on, the water still flows.
 
I have a 180-degree t-stat in my 383 and it runs very cool and by the way my heaters is bypassed, 500 horsepower 5:50 foot pounds of torque
 
Something is not right. Its a new heater core. A Classic air setup. the doors are working as they should and so is water valve. As a last resort I'm going to run the heater hoses into a 5 gal bucket and i will also run a garden hose through heater core. Its such a simple system water in water out,,,, Question on the block there should be pressure out of one outlet and nothing on the other side, is that correct?
 
steve from staten island said:
Something is not right. Its a new heater core. A Classic air setup. the doors are working as they should and so is water valve. As a last resort I'm going to run the heater hoses into a 5 gal bucket and i will also run a garden hose through heater core. Its such a simple system water in water out,,,, Question on the block there should be pressure out of one outlet and nothing on the other side, is that correct?
Click to expand...
Water should flow in either direction. You may just have an airlock.

Is there a valve outside the heater core - like a heater shut off - if so check that water flows through it also.
 
If this is a brand new unit make sure that all of the rubber shipping plugs are pulled from the heater core ... don't ask me how I know this!
 
69roadr said:
I have a 180-degree t-stat in my 383 and it runs very cool and by the way my heaters is bypassed, 500 horsepower 5:50 foot pounds of torque
Click to expand...

thread jack... You have a 500hp 383?? With 550lb ft? Specs please!
 
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