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318 stroker

Artis

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Hello!

Got my 318 engine out of 70' charger and found out it's numbers matching... so I decided to keep it.
Im thinking of stroker kit. Make some overbore, put on better cam, rockers, valves etc. for approx 300+hp for street use.
Whats your experience building small block engines? Whats best setup for daily use?
 
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Went through that same decision tree. At the end of the day I decided that the extra $3000 to make "hot 318" was better spent finding a big block someday. I just rebuilt it to spec (all new parts in the valve train) with .020 over to square up the block, put in a 340 cam and fuel injection with dual exhaust (no headers). Does everything I want it to do, except get good gas milage :).
 
On my bucket list is a 392 stroker from a 318.

There's a kit.

That number keeps coming up in Mopar engine sizes, so i figure that's a good sign.

I have a roller cam LA block and a set of Magnum heads to use for the project.
 
On my bucket list is a 392 stroker from a 318.

There's a kit.

That number keeps coming up in Mopar engine sizes, so i figure that's a good sign.

I have a roller cam LA block and a set of Magnum heads to use for the project.
Watch the early magnum heads as they are known to crack.
 
I have built a stoker from both a 340 and a 360 and both were terrific street engines with plenty of torque and HP plus the advantage of light weight. The 318 shares the large main journal size of the 340 and is a pretty robust engine to start with. You should consider some better heads to take full advantage of the increased displacement.
 
I'm in a similar situation. I have a 70 Satellite convertible. I have the original 318 and 904 trans out of the car. I'm also looking to get more power from the 318, put a shift kit into the 904 and probably a suregrip with higher gear ratio in the 8 1/4 rear so i can keep everything numbers matching. I have been looking into stroker kits too, but no idea what way to go. I also need to get a good shop in north Jersey to do the work.
 
Sorry to poo-poo on the parade.... but if you want to keep a 318 TRULY numbers matching, then you'll be very limited by the small 2 bbl. carb/intake/heads. To me, both you & NJRR have a few options. These are just my opinions.

1. Keep the original motor on an engine stand & build a 340/360 how you like it.
2. Do basically a stock rebuild on the 318, maybe a small cam, and keep it truly numbers matching.
3. Built a "hot 318" like you're talking about & maybe put on some 340/360 heads, carb & intake. Keep the stock heads/carb/intake in the garage to put back on some day (if needed). The small port 318 heads are your 2nd biggest limitation behind the small carb/intake. This is a half-way version of #1.
 
Sorry to poo-poo on the parade.... but if you want to keep a 318 TRULY numbers matching, then you'll be very limited by the small 2 bbl. carb/intake/heads. To me, both you & NJRR have a few options. These are just my opinions.

1. Keep the original motor on an engine stand & build a 340/360 how you like it.
2. Do basically a stock rebuild on the 318, maybe a small cam, and keep it truly numbers matching.
3. Built a "hot 318" like you're talking about & maybe put on some 340/360 heads, carb & intake. Keep the stock heads/carb/intake in the garage to put back on some day (if needed). The small port 318 heads are your 2nd biggest limitation behind the small carb/intake. This is a half-way version of #1.

Agreed on truly numbers matching. I think option 3 is the direction I'm heading. I don't have room to store a spare engine nor do I anticipate selling the car. Also, not looking to race the car but want more power than the stock 318 2 barrel setup.
 
The 318 strokers are great. the only issue is if you want bigger hp numbers because the bore does shroud with bigger valves being fed by bigger ports. But - the kits are out there. 300+ hp is nothing even for a std sized 318. Just needs the same things: more air and fuel in, good flow out. You don't need fancy heads, or porting to get it from a 318. You will really hobble yourself by running the 318 top end on a 4" stroked bottom end. I've built a bunch of 4" engines. One of the best things anybody ever did for small block Mopars was get some decent 4" stroke cranks for them.
 
People like having a numbers matching engine for many reasons. Some just like keeping the engine the car was born with. Some people think the car will be more valuable with it. I could be wrong, but I believe the market value of a 70 charger with a transplanted 383 or 440 would be greater than it would with a numbers matching 318. Plus, Big blocks in B bodies are the perfect cars. 318s are for A bodies. :p
 
Im thinking of stroker kit. Make some overbore, put on better cam, rockers, valves etc. for approx 300+hp for street use.
Whats your experience building small block engines? Whats best setup for daily use?
A 300hp 318 is just a few bolt on parts and a cam. How much your willing to spend on some of the parts can effect the outcome of the build.

Cheaply done would be an OE 4bbl. intake, carb with inexpensive headers and a cam of approximately [email protected] duration.

If you moved to more expensive parts like a set of rpm heads and intake with TTI header and exhaust, it will take less cam because of the better breathing parts. You could drop 10*'s @ .050. (218 or 220 intake duration @.050.)
At that duration, you would not need a higher stall converter. It would work well with 3.23 and stock tires.
 
I've always considered a 318 powered B body to be equivalent to 307 Chevelles..no matter how built, no respect/street cred. Save the 318 for posterity, get at least a 383 for some fun.
 
I've always considered a 318 powered B body to be equivalent to 307 Chevelles..no matter how built, no respect/street cred. Save the 318 for posterity, get at least a 383 for some fun.

Dropping a 383 in a 318 car would entail a lot more expense. Replace trans, drive shaft, prob rear (8 1/4 to at least an 8 3/4), K member too (? not sure about that.)
So, improving the performance of the 318 to make it more fun to drive ( my goal) is much more economical and you have the benefit of keeping the original drivetrain in the car ( if that matters to anyone).
 
I'd think with all the parts and labor required to stroke a 318....if you want the nostalgic effect of having the numbers matching 318...then sure...keep it... on an engine stand in the corner of your shop.... and throw a inexpensive crate in it.

If you ever went to sell it, and the person buying it also had some love for a #'s matching car...put it back in, or let it go with it.

http://paceperformance.com/i-839638...eads-flat-tappet-cam-base-375-460-ft-lbs.html

as a "build it like i want it" kinda guy...i tend to not worry about numbers matching, especially if its a low option powertrain car. but to each their own.

the second you start playing with the cam, intake, or bore that block...its been modified IMO...so if there was any sentiment about being original, its gone-zo at that point. my2cents
 
Dropping a 383 in a 318 car would entail a lot more expense. Replace trans, drive shaft, prob rear (8 1/4 to at least an 8 3/4), K member too (? not sure about that.)
So, improving the performance of the 318 to make it more fun to drive ( my goal) is much more economical and you have the benefit of keeping the original drivetrain in the car ( if that matters to anyone).
Just an FYI here, the K-member will be the same you would just need motor mounts for whatever engine you put in. Should already have an 8-3/4 rear just probably the smaller yolk (741) 3rd member. A 383 swap wouldn't be too big a deal but keeping the original stuff and just upgrading the power some is cool too, not enough people do that anymore IMO
 
Just an FYI here, the K-member will be the same you would just need motor mounts for whatever engine you put in. Should already have an 8-3/4 rear just probably the smaller yolk (741) 3rd member. A 383 swap wouldn't be too big a deal but keeping the original stuff and just upgrading the power some is cool too, not enough people do that anymore IMO
trans? headers?...alot of differences in SB to BB. adds us fa$t
 
I'd think with all the parts and labor required to stroke a 318....if you want the nostalgic effect of having the numbers matching 318...then sure...keep it... on an engine stand in the corner of your shop.... and throw a inexpensive crate in it.

If you ever went to sell it, and the person buying it also had some love for a #'s matching car...put it back in, or let it go with it.

http://paceperformance.com/i-839638...eads-flat-tappet-cam-base-375-460-ft-lbs.html

as a "build it like i want it" kinda guy...i tend to not worry about numbers matching, especially if its a low option powertrain car. but to each their own.

the second you start playing with the cam, intake, or bore that block...its been modified IMO...so if there was any sentiment about being original, its gone-zo at that point. my2cents

Once again, the point is can the 904 trans and 8 1/4 rear handle the 375HP motor you linked above? Also, it's $5000. I think for $5k, I can do the upgrades on the 318, beef up the 904 and put a sure grip in the 8 1/4. Budget is a factor, always is. If not, I would put in a hemi, 727 and a Dana !!!
 
Just an FYI here, the K-member will be the same you would just need motor mounts for whatever engine you put in. Should already have an 8-3/4 rear just probably the smaller yolk (741) 3rd member. A 383 swap wouldn't be too big a deal but keeping the original stuff and just upgrading the power some is cool too, not enough people do that anymore IMO
Nope, its an 8 1/4.
 
Once again, the point is can the 904 trans and 8 1/4 rear handle the 375HP motor you linked above? Also, it's $5000. I think for $5k, I can do the upgrades on the 318, beef up the 904 and put a sure grip in the 8 1/4. Budget is a factor, always is. If not, I would put in a hemi, 727 and a Dana !!!
I was addressing the OP whose original intent was preserving the numbers matching engine. I see he has since not responded.
It would depend on what "upgrades" and "beefing up" you wanted to do. can you put a cam in a 318, and buy a 4bbl intake/carb for less than 5K? of course. Can you also buy a stroker kit, and drop off a virgin block at a machine shop and put together a turn key engine for under 5K? my answer to that is no. not IMO. but i won't turn this into a crate vs non debate. This thread is muddy enough with the 383 being thrown into the mix w/o the acknowledgement that the entire driveline needs replaced to even bolt to it. Just wanted the OP to know there's more options out there than "stroking a 318".. If you're trying to squeeze just a "bit" more hp out of a stock 318, as to not have to change gears, converter, etc...then a stroker or stroker kit shouldn't even be in the conversation.
 
I was addressing the OP whose original intent was preserving the numbers matching engine. I see he has since not responded.
It would depend on what "upgrades" and "beefing up" you wanted to do. can you put a cam in a 318, and buy a 4bbl intake/carb for less than 5K? of course. Can you also buy a stroker kit, and drop off a virgin block at a machine shop and put together a turn key engine for under 5K? my answer to that is no. not IMO. but i won't turn this into a crate vs non debate. This thread is muddy enough with the 383 being thrown into the mix w/o the acknowledgement that the entire driveline needs replaced to even bolt to it. Just wanted the OP to know there's more options out there than "stroking a 318".. If you're trying to squeeze just a "bit" more hp out of a stock 318, as to not have to change gears, converter, etc...then a stroker or stroker kit shouldn't even be in the conversation.

Yes, the thread strayed a little. If you look at Rumblefish360's post above, he talks about getting the 318 up to about 300HP with bolt-ons and a cam. That's a big improvement over the original 230HP for the 318 and not too far from a stock 383HP with 335HP. I think that is doable plus a shift kit for the 904 and even a sure grip for the 8 1/4 for the $5k. Would def make the car more fun than the plain 318.
 
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