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Rebuilding original water pump

Funny I was just reading the FSM and it said "not" to rebuild an a/c w.pump; have no idea why..
 
oldbee said:
Funny I was just reading the FSM and it said "not" to rebuild an a/c w.pump; have no idea why..
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Yea, Dave who rebuilt my engine said the something... Wonder about NOS Mopar pump....
 
I would go high-volume aluminum water pump just my opinion mine works great I think I paid $80 for it
 
5000? You must be smiling ALL the time! 33 miles on mine since middle of June; course I have no 'work' to go to. Course I'm always worrying about getting stranded.
 
oldbee said:
5000? You must be smiling ALL the time! 33 miles on mine since middle of June; course I have no 'work' to go to. Course I'm always worrying about getting stranded.
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Every trip to town is a minimum of 100 miles. Adds up FAST.
 
After plowing through the parts book and restoration guides my car had the wrong water pump anyway. It has a non-AC water pump :wtf:.... maybe it was replaced years ago with the wrong pump? Besides all is lost anyway, my impeller got damaged in my "parts box" and part of it is broken off.
 
Plenty of remans in parts stores. Unless you are trying to keep the part numbers original I do not see the point in rebuilding the original at high dollars.

As to Chrysler not recomending rebuilds just think of the time the FSMs were printed. New factory pumps were available. By the time all the rebuild parts were gathered and labor included it was a waste of money.
 
3 b ur right but my manual shows procedure for rebuilding a non a/c, then says don't do a/c type.(?)
 
oldbee said:
3 b ur right but my manual shows procedure for rebuilding a non a/c, then says don't do a/c type.(?)
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Based on how I broke the impeller (the AC impeller was larger diameter) it may be to delicate to rebuild. They did sell a kit with a new shaft and impeller for the AC models though.
 
Ok verified the GMB pump has a slightly wobbly shaft and leaks with hot ONLY... I had it under pressure at 13 lbs all night last night and not a drop on a paper towel on the K-Frame. Drove it today and made a mess. Pulled the pulley off and it is weeping out the weep hole...... With AC the last thing I want to do is keep changing this......
 
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Bit the bullet.... NOS on the way from Missouri..... Fingers crossed. At the very least I can see what an original AC pump should look like. I can put it next to the overpriced dried out NOS factory correct upper radiator hose in the worse case as paper weights :)
 
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Talk to Wade at Flying Dutchman, http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/chrysler-water-pumps.html he has rebuilt two pumps for me for my small block. I had a new mopar performance pump that failed and another one also failed that he had rebuilt, but he honored his warranty and sent me another rebuilt one and fixed the one that failed all at no charge. Nice guy, and he can tell you all about the processes he uses to rebuild pumps.
 
This should be PDF'ed and made as download. Exactly what GTX Rob had said here on another thread and here is the math to prove it.... Excellent article on cooling..... I bet if I had left my 318 stock it would be just adequate in the cooling in the most extreme conditions. It it just barely does not have enough cooling and I likely gave it about a 15% to 20% increase in power with my modifications.

https://www.enginebasics.com/Engine Basics Root Folder/Engine Cooling.html
 
Good article. I like when a simple equation can show the entire function.

Not to hijack the thread, but the 1/3 1/3 1/3 formula is the best argument in favor of hybrid cars. When you add in the regenerative braking hybrids make sense.

So, even a slightly warmed over motor needs additional cooling. You'd think with all of the hot rods in the world someone would be offering a simple straightforward upgrade in a kit.
 
I went from 1965 180 horsepower 2 barrel 273 to a full competition bracket racer (300+ horsepower 273) using the stock radiator with cooler lines plugs (had switched over to a four-speed) Had manual steering and brakes from the factory and ran cool as a cucumber both before and after modifications. Exception to the "rule"? I was always the odd man out as a kid, too. LOL

65 Valiant4.jpeg
 
Dibbons said:
I went from 1965 180 horsepower 2 barrel 273 to a full competition bracket racer (300+ horsepower 273) using the stock radiator with cooler lines plugs (had switched over to a four-speed) Had manual steering and brakes from the factory and ran cool as a cucumber both before and after modifications. Exception to the "rule"? I was always the odd man out as a kid, too. LOL

View attachment 499032
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Had lots of margin already :). I have AC too. That makes it run about 5-6 degrees hotter. I don't overheat but I don't like it clipping 210F in heavy stop and go traffic with the AC on and 100F+ outside temperatures. if the outside temperature stays below 100F it is on the edge of were I would like it. Low 90's and it is just right.
 
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