FYI Adjustable Prop valve failure

Bleeding the brakes today on the 65 Bel, on a brand new all Manual e mopar disc/ drum system. New Lines, calipers wheel cylinders and New adjustable rear prop valve. Cleaned all new lines with compressed air before installing any cylinders , calipers hoses,ect, successfully bench bled new master,( DR. Diff), Opened the rear prop valve for max rear flow. Everything worked as designed, all wheels bled just fine, Hard pedal , all 4 corners doing what seems required. Then... Screwed the prop valve in 2 turns( back to as Delivered)....decided to give one more bleed on rear cylinders for shits and giggles, only to discover NO pressure at all to rear brakes. I Started working backwards at all connections back towards to the M/C only to find no pedal pressure coming into any lines back there . Come to find good line pressure going into the prop valve and Nothing coming out. For some reason the internals went south,and plugged. This car is just a roller at this time, and I am glad to have discovered this issue,on a Whim before venturing out on the road. Keep in mind Everything worked fine at the onset. The new valve Did not come from Dr Diff, But He Did Get my order For a New Replacement! He Rocks! Very Helpful!! With Brakes take Nothing for Granted! Be Safe! Double Check Everything!
Thunder

Glad you found it sooner than later too. Cass is the go to man. The Ram Man is great for brake systems also. Check out his very informative videos.

Care to divulge what unit failed?

khryslerkid said:

Glad you found it sooner than later too. Cass is the go to man. The Ram Man is great for brake systems also. Check out his very informative videos.

Care to divulge what unit failed?

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It's no fault of the vendor. Everyone gets an inferior part now and then. It came from Mancini. No Blame to them. They take care of You.

I did the adjustable valve thing on the disc conversion on my '65 coronet. took the thing off because it just didn't do anything, nor did I need it. works fine without it.

lewtot184 said:

I did the adjustable valve thing on the disc conversion on my '65 coronet. took the thing off because it just didn't do anything, nor did I need it. works fine without it.

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I do not disagree with you, But that seems to defy everyone else's advice, about the reason for having one. Very interesting.

When you think about it, the dual mastercylinder is designed to apply the front brakes first, then the rears, all on its own. I've heard others not useing the valve also.

khryslerkid said:

When you think about it, the dual mastercylinder is designed to apply the front brakes first, then the rears, all on its own. I've heard others not useing the valve also.

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Well Kid.... all my lines are bent nice and neat, and I made a nifty bracket, so I guess I will stay the course.

I worked on a 51 Chevy street rod that had power disc front/drums rear and no prop valve. That car braked fine and never had an issue locking up the rears first. I know they always say to use a prop valve but I guess I'm not the only one to experience this.

Thunderlugs said:

Well Kid.... all my lines are bent nice and neat, and I made a nifty bracket, so I guess I will stay the course.

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I would, you might very well need it. I have read of several saying that they ended up adjusting it wide open after doing their testing. I guess it all depends on what combination of components get used.

I could feel the difference and felt a bit at ease when I used one back when I raced my trusty Roadrunner. Here is my layout on the Bell. This layout only would work with an automatic, since I located the valve right in front of the clutch rod hole. Oh well! I get enough 4 speed with the other car! The Ladies can drive this one!!

This one's better than the last?

Console or column shifter?

khryslerkid said:

This one's better than the last?

Console or column shifter?

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A Hurst on the Hump. Nothing pretty!