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No brake lights...turn signal switch in column. Anyone bypass it?

DrewTX

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I have no brake lights on my 71 Charger. I have power on both sides of the brake like switch, and all connections appear to be fine. I'm pretty sure its the switch in the column, which I understand is common. I really don't want change it, as all the replacement ones (see pic) look like junk made in China. All my other lights work, just no brake lights. Can't I just bypass the column and run a fused wire from the switch to the brown and green wires to the tail lights? Or run a full time hot wire to them and use a single wire to throw a ground.
WHY, WHY, WHY, MUST THEY RUN IT THROUGH THE COLUMN??? I'm sure there's a good reason but what a pain.

s-l1600.jpg
 
Must be misunderstanding here; the column wiring to my knowledge is only turn signals nothing to do with brake lights. May be test your grounding for brake lights and the light switch...if I'm following your dilemma...
 
it runs through the column because when you step on the brake with a turn signal on, the other rear brake lights will light up. You can bypass the switch, but you won't have any turn signals at all. I would first check all your connections starting with the one under the dash at the steering column and work your way back. I have not heard of any problems with the aftermarket switches for the cars
 
strange as it seems, the turns signal switch affects the brake lights. I only had one brake light on mine, when I moved the switch lever, it went from brake light on one side, to both, to the other side. think about it....when you have your turn signals one, one tail light is blinking, the other is on steady for a brake light.
 
Replacement is not too difficult. You probably will have to remove the plastic connector to snake the harness up/ down through the column jacket. Just tie/tape a pulling wire to the old harness before removal and use that wire to guide/pull the new harness back in. Don't force anything-you don't want to scar up any wire insulation!
Tools are available to remove the connectors from the plastic connectors.
Mike
 
The fix for me was to position a mirror behind the car to where I could see the brake lights from the drivers seat. I then tightened the signal switch to where the brake lights worked. Not tight enough then both wouldn't work at the same time and same problem if too tight.
 
Basically, the column switch separates the front and rear turn signal circuits. Half the column switch controls the front lights and dash indicators. The other half of the column switch controls the rear signals/brake lights. When the left signal is on, the left front, left dash, and left rear lights flash, the left brake signal is disconnected, while the right brake is connected. The opposite occurs when the right signal is selected. Technically, the rear bulbs have a bright 'signal' element (brake/signal) and a dimmer 'park/running' light element. The column switch separates the circuits so that the dash indicators and front signal lights do not come on when the brakes are applied while permitting the rear bulbs to flash or light solid independently from each other as needed.
 
Thanks and all the help and feedback on this. I've taken the steering wheel off all the wires and connections look good. I tested the terminals with a test light and don't seem to have power to the brown/green wires but I don't completely understand the circuitry. At this point I might as well replace it as the turn signal action isn't so good and looks original. I only see it on Ebay and looks pretty cheap. I guess it a pretty simple device so hopefully it will be decent.
 
You will notice that the wires at the switch are terminated with a tiny eyelet, crimped on. The eyelet is held down with a tiny brass rivet. This rivet is the contact for the steel spring wires on the moving switch plate. What typically happens, is that the brake light will draw excess current, enough for the rivet to get hot and melt some of the plastic around it. When the brakes are released, the plastic cools, but not before it has wicked around the rivet head, or across the top of the rivet head. Sometimes you can 'fix' things by carefully scraping some of the plastic away, allowing the circuit to work again.
 
What typically happens, is that the brake light will draw excess current, enough for the rivet to get hot and melt some of the plastic around it.
I actually experienced this in my old 69 Coronet. A wisp of smoke from the steering column whenever the brake pedal was depressed for several minutes.
 
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