headers or stock exhaust manifolds

DAVID A HILL said:

71 roadrunner 383 automatic. both original exhaust manifolds are broken. should I replace them with manifolds or headers?

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I'm in the same boat with my '66 Charger/440. It has the "HP" lumps on it and I think they are as intrusive as headers. They cook valve-cover gaskets, make valve cover removal and spark plug changes a pain and provide little improvement over a log-manifold. FYI. I have been looking at the Schumacher Tri Y, coated, mid-length headers. They are expensive like TTIs, but they don't have that monster collector under your foot. I'm considering them as a compromise between stock HP manifolds and full length PIA headers. The primaries are only 1-5/8" which is small for a BB, but mine is not too radical, and they don't have as long of primaries, so the scavenging isn't as good as full-lengths, but they are longer and more free-flowing than the HPs. In most forums guys say they drop right in from the top, plug wires don't need to be changed and they look great.

So, what is the community's take on the compromise between the "mid-length" tri-ys and the full-length TTIs? I'm on the fence which to get but I'd hate to get the TTIs and have to mess with shifter linkage, plug wires, starter cables (I already have a mini-starter) or have 2" of ground clearance. Do you think the tri-ys are a viable option at $800 (!).

Mutant66 said:

I'm in the same boat with my '66 Charger/440. It has the "HP" lumps on it and I think they are as intrusive as headers. They cook valve-cover gaskets, make valve cover removal and spark plug changes a pain and provide little improvement over a log-manifold. FYI. I have been looking at the Scheumacher Tri Y coated mid-length headers. They are expensive like TTIs, but they don't have that monster collector under your foot. I'm considering them as a compromise between stock HP manifolds and full length PIA headers. The primaries are only 1-5/8" which is small for a BB, but mine is not too radical, and they don't have as long of primaries, so the scavenging isn't as good as full-lengths, but they are longer and more free-flowing than the HPs. In most forums most guys say they drop right in from the top, plug wires don't need to be changed and they look great.

So, what is the communities take on the compromise between the "mid-length" tri-ys and the full-length TTIs? I'm on the fence which to get but I'd hate to get the TTIs and have to mess with shifter linkage, plug wires, starter cables (I already have a mini-starter) or have 2" of ground clearance. Do you think the tri-ys are a viable option at $800 (!).

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I know that the TTI is specific for Mopar my 383 is crate straight, they said based on HP under 400, 1 3/4 tubes and all i need to do is put in the small starter. simple right ?
Not sure on the TRYY but it seems that TTI are specific for Mopar B body only

relam said:

I know that the TTI is specific for Mopar my 383 is crate straight, they said based on HP under 400, 1 3/4 tubes and all i need to do is put in the small starter. simple right ?
Not sure on the TRYY but it seems that TTI are specific for Mopar B body only

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The Schumacher tri-y is for mopar b-body as well. I've heard a lot good about the TTi units (thick flanges, good fit, etc. . ) but many forum posts I've read still talk about "denting the floorpan" scraping the ground, modifying the stock floor shift-linkage, etc. . . I don't mind having to modify plug wires, but if I have to dent primary tubes to fit past the PS gearbox, dent floors, rig-up shift linkages, listen to dragging over steep driveways, etc. . . I'll go a different direction.

I just went from Hooker non coated headers to TTI's Ceramic Coated. Install was maybe 3 hours tops. Didn't even have to unbolt the motor. Cut the old headers out with a saw zawl. I noticed less under hood temps and the flange actually sealing to the head was a huge plus.

I did have the drive the car open header to the exhaust shop the next day. That was fun... lol

DAVID A HILL said:

71 roadrunner 383 automatic. both original exhaust manifolds are broken. should I replace them with manifolds or headers?

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Yes you should replace them with manifolds or headers. To leave them broken or completely off would be silly.

Cornpatch MO said:

Seems to me that headers have more square inches of surface area, and that headers will throw off heat quicker. therefore making more heat under the hood. Cast iron exhaust manifolds contain the heat with-in them and more heat goes out the exhaust pipe. I believe headers are mostly beneficial at higher RPM. ...Anyway, that's my story and I am sticking to it ! ........................MO

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Correct. More surface area means more and quicker heat transfer. If it wasn't so, we could use a simple pipe from thermostat cover to water pump and not spend money for a radiator.

I have untreated headers that are so hot that they trip the heat sensor on the stereo system. I'm switching them out for ceramic coated stock manifolds to control heat as best I can to run a sensitive stereo system and to keep the noise down to a level that I can hear it. The cost to coat the manifolds and assorted nuts and bolts was about $200.

I have a set of TTI headers on my 66 charger. I believe one of the first sets made from 2" tubing for Chrysler Power Magazine in 1989. I just had them ceramic coated to go with the rebuild on the 383. They had been chromed plated. I would recommend them. Had a set of cheep ones before that kept blowing the gaskets. Had the car with me while stationed in Europe so dependability was a must when the nearest parts store with parts for my car was 3000 miles away.

Zeppelin264 said:

I just went from Hooker non coated headers to TTI's Ceramic Coated. Install was maybe 3 hours tops. Didn't even have to unbolt the motor. Cut the old headers out with a saw zawl. I noticed less under hood temps and the flange actually sealing to the head was a huge plus.

I did have the drive the car open header to the exhaust shop the next day. That was fun... lol

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Does your B-Body have Power Steering? Could you use the studs or did you have to switch to header bolts (studs are more resistant to antifreeze leaks from the awesome "through bolts" on some cylinders)? Did you need to drop the drag-link and put them in from beneath? How is the ground clearance?

Inquiring minds want to know (before they spend $1,000).

Mutant66 said:

Does your B-Body have Power Steering? Could you use the studs or did you have to switch to header bolts (studs are more resistant to antifreeze leaks from the awesome "through bolts" on some cylinders)? Did you need to drop the drag-link and put them in from beneath? How is the ground clearance?

Inquiring minds want to know (before they spend $1,000).

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I do have power steering. You could probably use studs once the headers are up in there and ready to bolt down, but getting them up in there, there's no way. I have Stealth heads so I just run the header bolts TTi supplies(Very nice btw). Drivers side went in without much effort, pass side woulda been easier to just drop the drag link. A little banging (on my new headers :cry ) and both sides got up in there.

The best way to do this if you want to 100% make sure you wont get any install dings would be to drop the drag link and unbolt motor per side, jack motor up while pivoting off the opposite mount and then install from bottom. Then vise versa for the other side.

Ground clearance is better than before. I'm more worried about my oil pan that's 4" off the ground. So far no skid marks... Also the collectors come out in a sort of off angle(inwards) since they hug the block so well, so if you have long tubes where they dump straight back, you will need to have the exhaust modified.

I did have to ding 1 tube after the install to clear the torsion bar on the passenger side. Was kinda disappointed about that, but it was like 1/16" or so away from the T bar, and I just wacked it like twice to open that gap up. I'm also on 1.10 Bars, so they are pretty wide.

Wow, this is quite a thread. On my '70 Barracuda 383 I gained significant power compared to the HP iron manifolds I had put on the low performance motor. I saw no evidence of increased heat in the engine compartment with the headers. If that's a concern heat tape the headers. IMO don't try studs, stick to header bolts, I never had them loosen. The real issue is which header/brand actually fits better. My ultra cheap headers on my 383 Barracuda needed several dents added for the spark plugs. Good quality seem to need minimal "adjustment". Headers be good.