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recently rebuilt 1962 413 motor

S

spence

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I had my 62 413 motor rebuilt by a local, and I thought, trusted engine shop. They put in a mopar purple cam. Long story short: It sounds great at idle. Really good. But, on the road, will barely get to 40MPH, and flattens out at about 70MPH. A good friend suggested they might have installed the cam at the wrong degrees. Another friend is saying the cam is too aggressive, and just swap it out with a milder cam. Anyone else have this similar problem after a fresh build? Thanks!
 
Probably something simple like timing or jetting. Bring it back to them and take them for a ride, I'd bet they'll help tune it.
 
What's the rest of the specs on the engine. I remember back in the 60s when I put a Crowler 280 cam in my 383 64 Sport Fury - it seemed to be a step backwards, particularly on the low end. I was of the impression more cam didn't help those early, small valve heads.
 
These guys are on the right track. I'd be looking at the timing & guts of the distributor (e.g. are the advance weights working), the carburetor itself (need a rebuild?) and fuel pressure (If I had a gage...otherwise, I'd look at that 3rd and either add one or just temporarily splice one into the fuel line & remove it after I found the problem). Definitely does sound like fuel or timing.
 
+1 all the above,,plus the 0-40 sounds suspect; what rear end gear? Could be a whole lot of other stuff interacting to make it sluggish IMHO.
 
Don't know how far you had the car apart but check your accelerator linkage for wide open throttle.
 
Had an issue on a 383 that was built nicely similar cam etc. I ran the factory exhaust and convertor and the car ran like crap. Turns out the convertor needed to be looser and there was too much backpressure with stock exhaust change to 2800 stall convertor and headers and flowmasters ran great. It was like day and night. Don't know what you're running but check specs for your cam for convertor if automatic and exhaust flow.
 
I'd sure go through the steps, to verify the cam timing. Even if it takes pulling the driver's side head, to get to #1 piston.
Just makes a big difference knowing the timing is right, or wrong. Otherwise, your just spinning your wheels!
 
My 62 361 HP Fury has the same issue.....can't even brake the tires look on wet grass.
The idle mixture screws are not functional................I turned them in the whole way and it stayed running turned them out and no change at all.
I have to pump the gas 20 or so times to get it to start when cold.
I did get a kit to rebuild, just have not got there yet.
 
PurpleBeeper said:
These guys are on the right track. I'd be looking at the timing & guts of the distributor (e.g. are the advance weights working), the carburetor itself (need a rebuild?) and fuel pressure (If I had a gage...otherwise, I'd look at that 3rd and either add one or just temporarily splice one into the fuel line & remove it after I found the problem). Definitely does sound like fuel or timing.
Click to expand...

MAYBE VACUUM LEAK?
 
Shorthorse said:
Don't know how far you had the car apart but check your accelerator linkage for wide open throttle.
Click to expand...

This is a good point & something that might get overlooked...I've done it. Have someone else put the pedal to the floor (not running) and make sure the carb is opening fully. Also, could be the back barrels not opening.....BUT I would think the car would run fine up to 80+ mph without the back barrels at all....they made 383/400 2 bbls. after all.
 
Check the cam position. We had a similar experience with a 440. Cam sprocket can be installed 3 ways. Take engine guy for a ride. Cam is in wrong spot. Hope this helps you, did it on ours.
 
And who knows, maybe the distributor is off. You're only hoping to get it close when install a dizzy before it runs. It should always be checked with a timing light and adjusted during breakin. You could be running say 25* initial and 40* or more total timing which might cause some pretty poor performance at elevated rpm but runs fine at idle.
 
spence said:
I had my 62 413 motor rebuilt by a local, and I thought, trusted engine shop. They put in a mopar purple cam. Long story short: It sounds great at idle. Really good. But, on the road, will barely get to 40MPH, and flattens out at about 70MPH. A good friend suggested they might have installed the cam at the wrong degrees. Another friend is saying the cam is too aggressive, and just swap it out with a milder cam. Anyone else have this similar problem after a fresh build? Thanks!
Click to expand...
My $0.02... regardless of whether/or not the secondaries are opening, a 413 (or any other engine), wouldn't go just 40 mph, & flatten-out at 70mph! Sounds to me, that the timing is way too far retarded, and/or the distributor position is off. Disconnect coil wire, pull #1 spark plug, find TDC, on the compression stroke, and pull the distributor cap to see rotor position. Someone (?), may have installed the distributor incorrectly. The rotor on your engine turns counter-clockwise, and loosen the distributor hold-down bolt/clamp, just enough so you can turn it. Firing order is: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Turn distributor on your RB 413, "CLOCKWISE" - to advance the timing.

Pull the vacuum advance hose from the carburetor & put a screw in it to block it off (if one is connected to the vacuum advance). With a timing light on #1 plug wire, start the engine, and IIRC, it should be 10/12 degree BTDC, and that is where the timing light should pick-up the marks on the vibration damper. If it doesn't, find TDC, as with above, and pull distributor out enough so that when you re-install-it, the rotor, should be just "coming-up-on" the #1 terminal. That is your "initial" timing is. The vacuum advance makes-up the total. If the marks on the damper don't move as you increase engine rpm, then your distributor/vacuum advance is malfunctioning. You didn't state if you have points, or an HEI transistor ignition. If you have points (dual, or single), adjust to specs. REMEMBER...Timing does NOT affect dwell, but dwell does affect timing! If the stator, pick-up, etc. is bad in an electronic distributor, that is another possible problem.

Your cam has a dowel-pin, that aligns the cam sprocket, and the crank sprocket, with two small "0's" that should "mate" with each other. If the engine guy installed the cam "straight-up" (correctly), without a degree-wheel, and no "offset" cam bushing, then it's still possible the distributor is a "tooth" off. Or, your vacuum advance is stuck. If the engine turns over easily, after reaching operating temp, the timing is too far retarded. If it barely turns-over when hot, it is too far advanced, but that wouldn't make it run the way you said it does... Hope this helps, & GOOD-LUCK! :)
 
Last edited:
Al Zangenberg said:
My $0.02... regardless of whether/or not the secondaries are opening, a 413 (or any other engine), wouldn't go just 40 mph, & flatten-out at 70mph! Sounds to me, that the timing is way too far retarded, and/or the distributor position is off. Disconnect coil wire, pull #1 spark plug, find TDC, on the compression stroke, and pull the distributor cap to see rotor position. Someone (?), may have installed the distributor incorrectly. The rotor on your engine turns counter-clockwise, and loosen the distributor hold-down bolt/clamp, just enough so you can turn it. Firing order is: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Turn distributor on your RB 413, "CLOCKWISE" - to advance the timing.

Pull the vacuum advance hose from the carburetor & put a screw in it to block it off (if one is connected to the vacuum advance). With a timing light on #1 plug wire, start the engine, and IIRC, it should be 10/12 degree BTDC, and that is where the timing light should pick-up the marks on the vibration damper. If it doesn't, find TDC, as with above, and pull distributor out enough so that when you re-install-it, the rotor, should be just "coming-up-on" the #1 terminal. That is your "initial" timing is. The vacuum advance makes-up the total. If the marks on the damper don't move as you increase engine rpm, then your distributor/vacuum advance is malfunctioning. You didn't state if you have points, or an HEI transistor ignition. If you have points (dual, or single), adjust to specs. REMEMBER...Timing does NOT affect dwell, but dwell does affect timing! If the stator, pick-up, etc. is bad in an electronic distributor, that is another possible problem.

Your cam has a dowel-pin, that aligns the cam sprocket, and the crank sprocket, with two small "0's" that should "mate" with each other. If the engine guy installed the cam "straight-up" (correctly), without a degree-wheel, and no "offset" cam bushing, then it's still possible the distributor is a "tooth" off. Or, your vacuum advance is stuck. If the engine turns over easily, after reaching operating temp, the timing is too far retarded. If it barely turns-over when hot, it is too far advanced, but that wouldn't make it run the way you said it does... Hope this helps, & GOOD-LUCK! :)
Click to expand...
This is a MOPAR not a chubby............. there are no teeth on the distributor so It can not be a tooth off.
 
FU64RY said:
The idle mixture screws are not functional................I turned them in the whole way and it stayed running turned them out and no change at all.
Click to expand...
You've got a vacuum leak, manifold, or carb base gasket. Taking in too much air.
 
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