If the reg was bad and passing full current, it would be doing whatever the alternator puts out.....upwards of 18v or more. I had one that malfunctioned and it blew the fuse in my radar detector was was rated at 18v. Had no idea what was was up until I drove after dark and noticed my headlights were real bright. That part I liked lol.
I just went through this type of high voltage output with my 70 Roadrunner recently. Alternator failed on the way to a weekend car show as I pulled into town. Purchased a "rebuilt" alternator from the only auto parts store in town......got me home (90 miles) after the show but was putting out 15.3 - 15.6 volts. Replaced the voltage regulator but no change. Heard from other Mopar owners that the 'rebuilt" alternators are problem prone so order a new Tuff Stuff American Built with American parts alternator and problem is solved. Runs at 13.5 at idle and up to 14.5 when under a "load".
Looks like several drivers have the same conditions and have experienced no problems.
A miss-match in brand names between regulator and alternator shouldn’t make difference in battery charging voltage. The Regulator sets the voltage based on what it senses at the blue wire terminal. I’m running a Tough Stuff 7905 and a MP original style reg. Just as with the mechanical regulated system discussed in this thread, check for excessive voltage drop at the regulator. ’70 and up column mounted ign. switches use Molex connections at the base of the column that, just like bulkhead connectors, tend to build up resistance, overheat and add to voltage drop problems.
Yep. It is well-grounded.
nothing is wrong. If you were below 12 that would be a problem. not all gauges are 1000% accurate. your car is fine.
Have the battery checked, if its sulfated it basically refuses a charge and pushes back with a high volt reading within the veh electrical system. It means the batt holds a light surface charge but cant supply deep cycle cold cranking anymore.
