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Give me suggestions for Quarter Skin install!

I said try a bead on the practice metal. Mainly to get a feel for working the weld pool. Yes, it could cause warpage on the quarter panels. Also, don't pull the gun away after the weld. You want the post flow gas to sheild the weld as it cools.
 
drobertson said:
Hey guys, I've been working on the resto-mod of my 73 Hardtop Charger. Not a very rusty car at all, but driver's quarter panel was badly damaged in an accident many years ago (before I bought the car).

A new quarter was necessary. Full panels aren't available aside from new old stock, and many have had good luck with tabco skins.

The difference is that the quarter skin only extends about an 1 1/2" above the upper body line, and it's 19 gauge steel compared to the factory 18 gauge steel (I measured).

Should the upper edge of the quarter skin be slightly lapped onto the original remains to retain strength in the quarter (and make stitch welding easier)? Or is a butt-weld absolutely necessary? The car is going to be a very nice driver when finished, not perfect show quality.

It might also be noted that I live in a very dry part of the U.S. , and rust isn't a huge concern like it would be down south. Thanks, - David.
Click to expand...
:popcorn::thumbsup:
 
I've been talking with builder friend of mine who has built many award winning cars and also worked on a couple of Fooses Overhaulin builds.
I told him that I had bought my TIG rig and would be starting on mine soon...he told me he hadn't welded a skin in years.
He uses panel bond, flanges one side and laps the other over and screws it down. Grinds the screws off and skins the seam with filler. Another buddy that does it for a hobby said he does the same thing. No warpage to worry about!
New modern cars are assembled with it don't see why it wouldn't work...
 
Mike67 said:
I've been talking with builder friend of mine who has built many award winning cars and also worked on a couple of Fooses Overhaulin builds.
I told him that I had bought my TIG rig and would be starting on mine soon...he told me he hadn't welded a skin in years.
He uses panel bond, flanges one side and laps the other over and screws it down. Grinds the screws off and skins the seam with filler. Another buddy that does it for a hobby said he does the same thing. No warpage to worry about!
New modern cars are assembled with it don't see why it wouldn't work...
Click to expand...

panel bond has a place, I always have some in the shop....... flanging a 7 foot long panel with a compound curve is no picnic. I've done several repairs by gluing a flange to the backside, then gluing the replacement to it. I've also seen the seam and screw holes show up in the job after a while.
 
451Mopar said:
I said try a bead on the practice metal. Mainly to get a feel for working the weld pool. Yes, it could cause warpage on the quarter panels. Also, don't pull the gun away after the weld. You want the post flow gas to sheild the weld as it cools.
Click to expand...
I can run a bead just fine, but stitch welding is what I'm still catching the hang of.
 
Mike67 said:
I've been talking with builder friend of mine who has built many award winning cars and also worked on a couple of Fooses Overhaulin builds.
I told him that I had bought my TIG rig and would be starting on mine soon...he told me he hadn't welded a skin in years.
He uses panel bond, flanges one side and laps the other over and screws it down. Grinds the screws off and skins the seam with filler. Another buddy that does it for a hobby said he does the same thing. No warpage to worry about!
New modern cars are assembled with it don't see why it wouldn't work...
Click to expand...
Ehhh... I'll pass. Maybe if I were working on a different panel, then maybe. But I'd be constantly nervous driving a glued together car with a 440.
 
furyus said:
Sorry to disagree, but Do Not try to run a bead on that quarter. You'll be sorry. The smaller wire is reccomended by a lot of guys, but I use .030 for everything. The way Eldubb440 said to do it is the correct way. Keep a small flatblade screwdriver with you. Sometimes when you cut, the edges move a little. Just stick the screwdriver in the slot and pry slightly to align panels, then tack while you keep them aligned.
Click to expand...

I never said I'd do a bead weld... that's common sense. Stitch welds are what I'll do. Good idea with the screw driver. I'm sure that'll come in handy.
 
drobertson said:
Ehhh... I'll pass. Maybe if I were working on a different panel, then maybe. But I'd be constantly nervous driving a glued together car with a 440.
Click to expand...
Your choice just threw it out there... There would not be anything to be nervous about with panel bond...it's no ordinary glue. The metal will have to be ripped or torn to separate the two panels.
 
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panel bond is a nice option for full panel replacement at the pinch welds, I just don't trust it not to show up later for a mid panel splice......... no one I have done work for want's to be the guinea pig, old habits die hard.......... in the collision world, it is much more common
 
if I ever do another big build for myself, it will be a combination of weld and panel bond
 
I'm of the same mind...I believe the old way is the right way...
Bob does some top notch work and has built many award winners. He's been doing this since he retired 20+ years ago, I trust everything he says and don't doubt his proficiency with it. He has a waiting list to get work in....
I wish I had pics of the 63 Vette he did, nothing but a floor, a cowl and part of the roof. One of the most beautiful 63s I've ever seen...gave it to his daughter where it sits in her garage and uses as a storage shelf...smh..
 
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another benefit of panel bond is the anti-corrosive properties...... I love it for lower door patches in the corners, and lower pinch welds; where rust and moisture is a major problem..........

Tip: I learned not to use it on door skin replacements. I "wrap" the skin over the frame with no tacks or glue until the door is hung on the car. this allows you to "flex" the entire assembly into the perfect shape for alignment at both the front and the rear. then a couple tack welds holds it in place. even 2 premature tacks will prevent you from flexing it into shape.
 
I'm gonna look into that panel bond. If it's as good as they say, I'd use it where the quarter meets the trunk drop off, around the wheelhouse, and rocker area. But I will definitely stitch weld the long top piece...
 
Looks like youll be fine.. patients is key, take your time.. you get those spot welds nice a flat like your above pictures.. it will be less work levelling it out..
 
exceptions to the rule......... that Ford truck I did was a former fire truck and had multiple holes in the roof....... didn't want to weld a huge patch in the roof, panel bond to the rescue!
IMG_20150802_232552.jpg
IMG_20150802_232602.jpg
1463545957245.jpg
 
drobertson said:
I can run a bead just fine, but stitch welding is what I'm still catching the hang of.
Click to expand...

Sorry, when I read that you had just bought the welder I though that you had never welded before, and were just jumping into this.
I was basing this on what one of my friends did. Bought a car sight unseen off the internet, had never done this type of work before and when he started really did not have any tools either. He went out bought a welder and tried to do some body panels, and they did not come out good because he really din't know how to weld.
 
Nice looking work especially for the first time. Great job. Welding always over panel bond on the panels like you are doing. In the heat of the day it has been know to show its head. Doesn't expand like metal or something. Above my pay grade for what is chemically doing. All I know is I have seen it my self. Panel bond is for pinch welds. Especially say at the rockers for it's great corrosion protection. And as far as worrying about it coming apart. Let me tell you about the time I had to go behind myself year or so after I changed a bedside on a chevy truck. The only way it comes apart is to roll it like opening a sardine can. It was not worth the labor time the second time around I can promise you all that. Some guys have actually said they are scare of the panel bond make if the car too stiff. I don't know if that is a thing or not.
 
I use these sheet metal butt welding clamps when I do sheet metal repairs. It helps keeping the seam flat throughout the welding process.

$_58.JPG p19016.jpg
 
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