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'64 Fury Pro-Touring

Love this pic. Pretty sure this is the first time in history that the motor weighs more than the car...

:thumbsup:

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LOL, it's so funny you say that, I think about it all the time. If it wasn't for the AM frame I added this thing would be nothing but a tissue paper shell surrounding a huge lump of engine and transmission. In the end, I don't think weight is going to be an issue :steering:
 
You are one very determined fellow Bob. Good to see the progress you've made. But my goodness the amount of work that new fiberglass needs is something else.
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When I bought the f'glass parts from Sled City I knew they were "race" body panels, so I had no expectations of them fitting like a factory replacement part. Aside from that, with an entirely custom frame/chassis I knew there would be issues and problems, all of which are of my own doing. Guess the best way to sum it up is, I'm a glutton for punishment!

BTW Malex, if you're looking for a project to put your "extra" 512 in, well, how about my Fury?
 
When I bought the f'glass parts from Sled City I knew they were "race" body panels, so I had no expectations of them fitting like a factory replacement part. Aside from that, with an entirely custom frame/chassis I knew there would be issues and problems, all of which are of my own doing. Guess the best way to sum it up is, I'm a glutton for punishment!

BTW Malex, if you're looking for a project to put your "extra" 512 in, well, how about my Fury?

Hahaha Bob! When I said "less engine" I was thinking more of a drop in and go Mopar. Your Fury has a little more work to do still than that! Besides, you'd go through some major shock and withdrawals if suddenly there was no Fury to consume your every minute. Keep at it - you're almost there!!
Regarding your fibreglass, I feel your pain. I too bought a hood and bumper from the same place. And what I got resembles what you got. I'm still kicking my *** for getting sucked into that sales pitch and I'm making myself fix the garbage I bought for being a dumbass.
But feel good with your hood Bob, I noticed in your pictures that you got twice the amount of stiffeners in your hood as what I ended up with! Keep at it and keep posting your progress fellow member!
 
Between trade shows and other traveling I haven't had a lot of time but I did receive the check valve for the Accusump system I installed so I thought I'd show the finished/installed system (save for wiring, which will come later).
I know the picture looks like the pressure switch is contacting one of the primary header tubes but trust me, there's about 6" of separation, the angles just give the illusion they're touching.

The thing that surprises me is the bulkiness of all the fittings, pressure switch, etc., necessary to make the Accusump work, but I'm luckier than most people in the fact I have tons of available room up front so I didn't have to run braided line all the way from the trunk to the engine.

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Now I'll get back to work on cleaning up the hood, finishing off the hood mounts, and doing some touch-up work on some engine compartment paint that got damaged. After that, weld in the belt support across the roll-hoop and get back to the body work.
 
Between trade shows and other traveling I haven't had a lot of time but I did receive the check valve for the Accusump system I installed so I thought I'd show the finished/installed system (save for wiring, which will come later).
I know the picture looks like the pressure switch is contacting one of the primary header tubes but trust me, there's about 6" of separation, the angles just give the illusion they're touching.

The thing that surprises me is the bulkiness of all the fittings, pressure switch, etc., necessary to make the Accusump work, but I'm luckier than most people in the fact I have tons of available room up front so I didn't have to run braided line all the way from the trunk to the engine.

Now I'll get back to work on cleaning up the hood, finishing off the hood mounts, and doing some touch-up work on some engine compartment paint that got damaged. After that, weld in the belt support across the roll-hoop and get back to the body work.

Good luck with the hood. Have you figured out your hinges or is it going to be lift off. Do you still have your original hinges around?
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Good luck with the hood. Have you figured out your hinges or is it going to be lift off. Do you still have your original hinges around?
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Hey Mal,

Gave up on the hinges so it’ll be a lift-off.
I still have the hinges but they have been HEAVILY modified, the spring perches are gone as are a LOT of the extra material; are you still interested?
 
Haha, my interest is limited to watching your progress from a distance. I was just through the hood hinge episode in case you were re-thinking using them again.
 
Haha, my interest is limited to watching your progress from a distance. I was just through the hood hinge episode in case you were re-thinking using them again.
I’m dreading getting to my hinges, might just go lift off. Seen some nice billet hinges from ring brothers but they’re $650
 
I’m dreading getting to my hinges, might just go lift off. Seen some nice billet hinges from ring brothers but they’re $650

I was able to use my existing hinges but it's been a lot of work. I've had to add structure to both sides and across the back, add 3/16" on the entire right side and across the rear. Gaps are good now and it opens / closes good. Have added 5 lbs to the hood so far! The next challenge is to get rid of the speed bumps on the top of it before bonding a scoop on.
I was a dumbass and bought this garbage - now I can fix it. Punishment.
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The same thing for the bumper - many many hours, cutting, reshaping, building. Ready for paint now though.
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Been building a paint booth for the final step. 8 X 10, big enough.
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For sure glass parts have issues to deal with. Have to make them fit, smooth them out etc. And when they get warmed up, they get lumpy again. These are some of the reasons we stayed away from body kits, for the ricers, and other glass stuff at the body shop I managed. You can never make them perfect.
 
All paint booths should come with a bar above. Yeah, new rule.
Exactly. Having a bar over the paint booth cured the problem of waiting long enough between coats!

IMG_1727.JPG

Bumper painted at the Bar & Booth.
 
It's been a little while since I posted but I have been getting some work done; I've been pushing on to more of the body work while I wait for some steel supplies to arrive; I want to add the roll bar tubes that run forward from the main hoop to the foot wells but I needed to order the square base plates to mount them to the floor.

I stripped and primed all the radiator core support, bumper filler, and hood latch support pieces; luckily none of them had been rusted or previously damaged so they helped me to rebuild the front of the car accurately a couple years ago.

IMG_1435.JPG


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That was the easy part, but I knew sooner or later I'd have to get back to the hood, which, for whatever reason, is probably 1/2" - 3/4" too narrow.
I laid the hood upside down, sanded the underside surface up to about 1" from the edge, then laid down a couple layers of fiberglass that extended over the edges by about 3/4". My next step will be to flip the hood over, remove any high spots from the added glass, then build up the surface of the new glass to match the hood surface. One mistake I made was not supporting the additional glass as well as I should have so the additional glass is somewhat wavier than I'd have liked, but working with glass is so much easier than metal working I'm not worried about it.
Here are a couple shots of the hood, the first showing the under-lament I laid the glass on, and the second showing the glass additions. If you're wondering, I use wax paper to line the under-lament so the glass and resin won't stick.

IMG_1442.JPG


IMG_1443.JPG

While waiting for the glass/resin on the hood to dry I un-boxed the trunk lid, which I hadn't done in many years, and having never tried to fit it to the car I had no idea what to expect. Sadly, I was disappointed as can be for a couple reasons:
1) I don't know about any other '64 models but on a Fury there are cut-outs on the vertical rear panel of the trunk lid where the trunk wraps up and around the tail lights, but for whatever reason they weren't cut out of my lid. No big deal, but...
2) The fit was even worse than my hood; the trunk lid was easily 1" too narrow! Damn, here I go again having to widen a body panel.
The only benefit of doing the trunk lid was now that I'd done the hood I've learned a couple things and it made the job much easier, but I still have lots more filling, sanding, etc. than I'd like.
Here are some shots of the lid:

In this first shot you can see the blue painters tape where I'd marked off the center-line of the lid in preparation for making some hinge mounts (yeah, I'm using the factory hinges, not pins) and this is when the gravity of the situation really hit me. The gaps looked awfully big when I test fit the lid but proof was in measuring from the center-line to the outer edges; NO BUENO!
IMG_1445.JPG

Here I've sanded the outer perimeter 1" in from the edge and added the under-layment/wax-paper.
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This last shot shows how I've added 2 - 3 layers of glass matting and resin to extend the edges of the lid. Next I'll flip the lid over, put it on the car and trim down the excess, leaving the gaps VERY tight, then begin filling from the top to get a uniform surface. Once the surfaces are uniform I'll move on to making the hinge mounts, get the trunk centered up, then trim the lid to fit correctly. The factory hinges are anything but stable, there's probably 3/4" play side to side on each hinge without the lid bolted in place, but I believe by bolting the lid to the hinges it will eliminate this "wobble" and the lid will fit really well.
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You are finding out one of the many reasons we stayed away from aftermarket glass parts at the body shop I managed. We refused to install,paint or associate with that stuff. The shi! don't fit and the surfaces are like the ocean on a windy day.
 
It's been a little while since I posted but I have been getting some work done; I've been pushing on to more of the body work while I wait for some steel supplies to arrive; I want to add the roll bar tubes that run forward from the main hoop to the foot wells but I needed to order the square base plates to mount them to the floor.

I stripped and primed all the radiator core support, bumper filler, and hood latch support pieces; luckily none of them had been rusted or previously damaged so they helped me to rebuild the front of the car accurately a couple years ago.
That was the easy part, but I knew sooner or later I'd have to get back to the hood, which, for whatever reason, is probably 1/2" - 3/4" too narrow.
I laid the hood upside down, sanded the underside surface up to about 1" from the edge, then laid down a couple layers of fiberglass that extended over the edges by about 3/4". My next step will be to flip the hood over, remove any high spots from the added glass, then build up the surface of the new glass to match the hood surface. One mistake I made was not supporting the additional glass as well as I should have so the additional glass is somewhat wavier than I'd have liked, but working with glass is so much easier than metal working I'm not worried about it.
Here are a couple shots of the hood, the first showing the under-lament I laid the glass on, and the second showing the glass additions. If you're wondering, I use wax paper to line the under-lament so the glass and resin won't stick.


While waiting for the glass/resin on the hood to dry I un-boxed the trunk lid, which I hadn't done in many years, and having never tried to fit it to the car I had no idea what to expect. Sadly, I was disappointed as can be for a couple reasons:
1) I don't know about any other '64 models but on a Fury there are cut-outs on the vertical rear panel of the trunk lid where the trunk wraps up and around the tail lights, but for whatever reason they weren't cut out of my lid. No big deal, but...
2) The fit was even worse than my hood; the trunk lid was easily 1" too narrow! Damn, here I go again having to widen a body panel.
The only benefit of doing the trunk lid was now that I'd done the hood I've learned a couple things and it made the job much easier, but I still have lots more filling, sanding, etc. than I'd like.
Here are some shots of the lid:

In this first shot you can see the blue painters tape where I'd marked off the center-line of the lid in preparation for making some hinge mounts (yeah, I'm using the factory hinges, not pins) and this is when the gravity of the situation really hit me. The gaps looked awfully big when I test fit the lid but proof was in measuring from the center-line to the outer edges; NO BUENO!
Here I've sanded the outer perimeter 1" in from the edge and added the under-layment/wax-paper.
This last shot shows how I've added 2 - 3 layers of glass matting and resin to extend the edges of the lid. Next I'll flip the lid over, put it on the car and trim down the excess, leaving the gaps VERY tight, then begin filling from the top to get a uniform surface. Once the surfaces are uniform I'll move on to making the hinge mounts, get the trunk centered up, then trim the lid to fit correctly. The factory hinges are anything but stable, there's probably 3/4" play side to side on each hinge without the lid bolted in place, but I believe by bolting the lid to the hinges it will eliminate this "wobble" and the lid will fit really well.
View attachment 530998

Oh brother, I feel your pain, I got the same junk as you. For the hood, mine was only about 1/4" too narrow. My hood was so wavey that I ended up building a jig using the contour from my original hood. I'll be placing the glass hood on it for when I bond the scoop on. Regarding fibreglass, I'm picking up a new set of bumpers from. " AAR" today.
Yeah the jig looks crude but it has the right contour and it's high end compared to the fibreglass hood that you and I are working on.. Jig works for both sides.
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By the way, I was talking to a guy that bought the same fenders as you have, he couldn't use them at all. Some guy hauled them away for him he said, he bought from another supplier.
 
Hey fellas,

Like I said, I pretty much knew what I was getting into when I bought my pieces, I mean, they're meant for a race car not a show car, though admittedly, the hood and deck lid being too small is annoying as hell and I'm not sure how that much size could be lost when pulling the mold from a original factory piece. Regardless, I'll press on and get it knocked out within a couple days.
Hey CK, looking forward to seeing you during SEMA. When I bought my glass parts there were really no alternatives as to which company I bought them from, so I went with what was available. Even with the issues, I'm still pretty happy with my decision, the steel parts are SO friggin' heavy!!!
That jig you built (Malex) is a terrific idea, but luckily I don't seem to have the same issues; yeah, I've got some waves but nothing heinous enough that I'd have to make a jig for either part. In fact, I've blocked the hood and was surprised to find only a couple low spots right near the center, which I first skimmed with kitty hair and next will skim with body filler. Luckily, that spot will be covered (I think) by the front edge of the scoop.
I've got some more pix I'll be posting in a little while showing the progress I made yesterday on extending the edges.
 
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