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How to Tell if the '69 Roadrunner I'm Looking to Buy is Authentic

Hiya Folks,

I've wanted a '69 Roadrunner for some time, and there's one I'm considering for purchase that I want to determine whether it's an authentic Roadrunner.

The fender tag has been screwed in with flathead screws. This stuck out since all the tags that I've come across have been screwed in with small Phillips head screws, which makes sense for factory assembly. Would there be another reason to have different screws other than to swap out the tag?

The dash tag matches the fender tag, and I'm not sure how to tell if the dash was just swapped out as well.

The car has been restored and painted.

The engine is a non-numbers matching 440, and that's what I'm looking for since I could pay less for getting a real Roadrunner witha swapped in 440 engine. The hood has also been replaced with a four pin fiberglass hood.

It seems that body stamping numbers will probably have been obscured by the new paint job.

What else is there to look for to figure out if the car is a real Roadrunner?

Thanks and Best,

Banjo
 
Appears not to be genuine but more important is how solid is the car? Price is a little high compared with cars of that type here in Cantuckee. This won't be your last rodeo nor your last mistake. I would be more concerned with the quality and condition for the money.
 
Should there be other numbers stamped into the sheet metal, and should they match the VIN?

Suppose he's being open about the numbers, because they don't match anything on the VIN or fender tag. Given the attached photos, does it look like they're of the right spots?


Upper radiator core support


Driver's side trunk lip

View attachment 522706 View attachment 522708

Those are NOT the body stamping numbers. Wrong placement, wrong format and not enough characters. Those are panel stamping numbers.

Don't panic yet.

What is the VIN for the car?
 
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Here's one example of what you're looking for. The numbers could be on the top but more likely on the engine side of the support.

The year and plant codes will be transposed compared to the VIN. I.e. G9 as opposed to 9G on the VIN.
Rad_Support_Numbers_2_575B.jpg


Here's approximately where you will find the trunk rail numbers.

Trunk_code_location.jpg
 
The car looks solid, but if it seems to be a tag swap, I'm not planning to make the long trip to check it out. Tempted, and keeping my eyes open for what may else be on the market.

The VIN of this one shows RM21H9A277727 on the dash, still feeling suspect of the tags. Thank you for sharing the images of where exactly to find the numbers.
 
There has been no evidence posted of a tag swap; just unsubstantiated guessing.
Don't let two incorrect screws on a fender tag prevent you from finding a car you want.
Screws get replaced all the time.
You now know where to look for the body stamping.
Send the guy my pictures so he knows what he is looking for and can send you pictures back.
 
Since you say it is a Lynch Road (A plant) car, also look on the top of the support. The numbers could be covered by a decal or something.

Tell him to look for A9 277727.

Yes, "1"s will look like "I"s.


69_LR_RADIATOR_SUPPORT.jpg
 
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If you don't mind me asking, are you looking specifically for a project car or a done car?
 
I'm looking for a done car, or one that's pretty much all done.

Been looking since May, prioritizing a solid body / structure, manual transmission, and then the type of engine / condition of the drivetrain, with a large block, high torque / horsepower engine.
 
I'm looking for a done car, or one that's pretty much all done.

Been looking since May, prioritizing a solid body / structure, manual transmission, and then the type of engine / condition of the drivetrain, with a large block, high torque / horsepower engine.


Finding a real clean honest Road Runner is tough because so many were beat to death. Does a stock rust free, stock, numbers matching 383 4-speed Road Runner with history back to day one interest you?


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Let's not forget an easy brake check for authenticity. Drum brakes were 11 x 3" in front and 11 x 2.5" in the rear. 1969 road runners are the best looking by far. I had a great 2 tone project car that you can follow on MOPARTS , members projects. Black body, silver painted roof, and a Pewter decor bench set interior. The new owner is a fanatic body man. It will be stunning when done.

Vinny
 
Should there be other numbers stamped into the sheet metal, and should they match the VIN?

Suppose he's being open about the numbers, because they don't match anything on the VIN or fender tag. Given the attached photos, does it look like they're of the right spots?


Upper radiator core support


Driver's side trunk lip

View attachment 522706 View attachment 522708

Those are part numbers of the metal, not vin numbers. The trunk lip # is under the weatherstrip, the radiator support # is near the driver side next behi d the radiator upper tank.
 
The brakes are supposed to be original. How would 11 x 3" front and 11 x 2.5" rear drum brakes on a '69 Roadrunner compare to what a '69 Belvedere would have?

Anything else to watch out for that could distinguish a Roadrunner from a Belvedere?

The seller came back with a radiator core support number that matches the VIN, and will have to unglue the weather strip to get the trunk lip numbers, which I will ask for. I'm getting close to the point of planning a trip.

Thanks, all
 
Sounds like its real. Post some pornography when you get it.

As far as further verification goes, not necessary IMHO with the matching numbers, but good to check anyway.
In 69, heavy duty suspension and brakes were standard on roadrunner, optional on satellites, so no solid evidence there. Check behind the back seat. There is a plate bolted on the driver side for dual exhaust. All roadrunners had dual exhaust, not all satellites had dual exhaust. More on the plate below. Check the holes for the road runner emblems if you can. Factory ones will be clean with factory underliner possibly partially overlapping the holes, a more recently drilled hole won't be as clean and won't have overlapping undercoating. Check the tops of the fenders and quarters from the backside for bonded up holes. Some satellites came with trim running down their sides, don't worry if doors or fenders have them, as they could well have been changed early on.

Attached is a picture of the inside of a roadrunner. There is a rusty square plate approximately 2.5" on either side. It is almost a foot to the driver side and a half foot down from the top motor. The plate is for the dual exhaust hanger. The passenger side hanger was part of the major assembly process, the driver side hanger was an add on and cheaper to just bolt into the necessary cars.
IMG_5391.JPG
 
I have heard that police officers working auto-theft and some DMV employees do searches on vehicles with "hidden" VIN numbers. I wonder if these are the same two we are talking about on the radiator support and trunk weatherstrip? I always pictured these "hidden" VIN numbers inside the frame or some other really obscure places.

I just figured that law enforcement had access to a special data base where they could look up the location of these hidden numbers for each make/model vehicle. The funny thing is, I have never heard anyone mention what I am talking about here. By the way, where do Fords and Chevys have they secondary VIN numbers (or partial numbers)?
 
Found this on a quick internet search:
"All manufactures put vin numbers in sneeky places and don't give this information to the public willingly. I had a 2007 Ford truck stolen where the thief thought he was so smart to remove and scratch out all the usual vin numbers. I found out all cars made have secret vin numbers. In my case a detective scraped off some factory coating off the floor pan and there they were. He also told me there were 12 other places where the VIn was hidden. Even my ford tech buddies didn't know this."
 
I have heard that police officers working auto-theft and some DMV employees do searches on vehicles with "hidden" VIN numbers. I wonder if these are the same two we are talking about on the radiator support and trunk weatherstrip? I always pictured these "hidden" VIN numbers inside the frame or some other really obscure places.

I just figured that law enforcement had access to a special data base where they could look up the location of these hidden numbers for each make/model vehicle. The funny thing is, I have never heard anyone mention what I am talking about here. By the way, where do Fords and Chevys have they secondary VIN numbers (or partial numbers)?
The cat is outta the bag....radiator support/cowl and trunk rail are the top secret locations! They also added them to engines and trannies.
Yes,modern vehicles have several places including the computer and several electronics are VIN specific that are tied back to the computer.
 
Finding a real clean honest Road Runner is tough because so many were beat to death. Does a stock rust free, stock, numbers matching 383 4-speed Road Runner with history back to day one interest you?


dscf9354-jpg.522840



dscf9355-jpg.522841



dscf9356-jpg.522842


dscf9337-jpg.522844


dscf9343-jpg.522846


dscf9382-jpg.522979


dscf9383-jpg.522980
I have seen this car of RC's. You will not find a nicer Roadrunner anywhere.
 
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Thanks, all, great stuff!

The seller stated the car to have drums all around. According to Wes Eisenschenk's book, the 11" drums were standard on the Roadrunner, but not the Belvedere. I haven't found more resources on how to recognize the two, and I'm planning to ask the seller to take off a couple of wheels and take a tape measure to the drums. Anyone have any further references on how to differentiate base Belvedere brakes from Roadrunner brakes on the 1969 modes?

Garrett, I had a hard time making out the plates in the photo, which would indicate the dual exhaust from the factory. Can you check to see if any of the pictures below, from the restoration, provide any details as to having factory dual exhaust?

DSCF4060.JPG 145_5618.JPG DSCF4061.JPG
 
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