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New S-60 rear end ordered. What can I expect for setup when it arrives?

Brewzer67

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So I just ordered my rear end from doctor diff tonight. I'm super excited because it's been a long time coming. I ordered the strongest non-spool version I could. I went with an S-trac differential and 35 spline axles with 5/8" studs. I am also having the axles dual pattern threaded for 1/2" studs so I can still use my street rims and locking lugs when I don't have the slicks on and am taking the car to long distance shows.

My question for the group is what can I expect to complete setup once it arrives? I will be transferring the disk brakes from my 8-3/4". What will that look like compared to my old rear end? Will I need to set axle end play? Anything else I need to worry about?

Also, is there any feedback from the group on the S-trac and how it goes down the track compared to a spool or locker?
 
I have an s60 also that I got from dr diff. You’ll need to set up your brakes and lines, add fluid and bolt it up. The axle end play is taken care of before it ships, and if you ever tear it down it’s easy to adjust end play as it has adjusters built in the housing! i got almost the same unit with the exception of the 5/8 studs. I got 35 spline axles, s trac diff, chromoly yoke, and had wilwood disc brakes to bolt up to it already.
 
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Oooohh, now that is sexy looking! If you could let me know what install issues you run into that would be appreciated. Looking at the axles I am not sure how they are going to be able to fit both sets of stud holes but we'll see. I am also excited because the are building mine 7/16" narrower on each side which should fix my occasional tire rub issue.
 
No install issues, although I don’t run leaf springs anymore I have the RMS 4 link. All I had to do was weld 2 tabs to the axle housing and bolt the bottom link arms to the brackets that sit on the spring perches.
 
Hey 67....is that the pallet Doc shipped it on?

Oooohh, now that is sexy looking! If you could let me know what install issues you run into that would be appreciated. Looking at the axles I am not sure how they are going to be able to fit both sets of stud holes but we'll see. I am also excited because the are building mine 7/16" narrower on each side which should fix my occasional tire rub issue.
You won't be able to unless you drill the wheels or back out the 5/8" studs. How much power do you have and does the car have a stick? A buddy and I ran a Super Street car (10.90 index) with a 4 speed and launch at 6k and never had a problem using 1/2 studs.....
 
Hey 67....is that the pallet Doc shipped it on?

You won't be able to unless you drill the wheels or back out the 5/8" studs. How much power do you have and does the car have a stick? A buddy and I ran a Super Street car (10.90 index) with a 4 speed and launch at 6k and never had a problem using 1/2 studs.....
Yes, doc is basically middle man when buying a complete assembly. It actually ships from strange warehouse.
 
Yes, doc is basically middle man when buying a complete assembly. It actually ships from strange warehouse.
Haven't checked prices but Doc can sell it cheaper or about the same that Strange does?
 
Hey 67....is that the pallet Doc shipped it on?

You won't be able to unless you drill the wheels or back out the 5/8" studs. How much power do you have and does the car have a stick? A buddy and I ran a Super Street car (10.90 index) with a 4 speed and launch at 6k and never had a problem using 1/2 studs.....
The plan would be to have one set of studs or the other in at a time. The 1/2" would be in the majority of the time so I can use my locking lugs. Once the bugs are worked out of the combination and I get the car to start dead hooking, I'll likely switch to the 5/8" studs. It's easier to have it in place to easily upgrade now than it would be to do it somewhere down the line. My goal is 9.90's which will put a significant strain on the rear end trying to get that 4000 lbs. moving. Plus, then I am prepared for the next build when I go with a power adder. I am always looking to the next build whenever I replace something. It's almost always cheaper to overbuild now than to rebuild later (or worse yet, build bigger from scratch...).
 
When installing one of these rear ends with the disc brakes on it, I'm assuming you have to replace your original proportioning valve set up for drums?
 
When installing one of these rear ends with the disc brakes on it, I'm assuming you have to replace your original proportioning valve set up for drums?
I have already done that as I am transferring the brakes from my 8-3/4 to the new rear end.
 
No install issues, although I don’t run leaf springs anymore I have the RMS 4 link. All I had to do was weld 2 tabs to the axle housing and bolt the bottom link arms to the brackets that sit on the spring perches.
Can I get a few snap shots of that welded area & bottom link arms?
 
I ordered the Dana from Dr Diff as well.
S-trac
Snubber
Transferred 10" drums over
Filled it
Jumped on the road and then the highway
 
I have an s60 also that I got from dr diff. You’ll need to set up your brakes and lines, add fluid and bolt it up. The axle end play is taken care of before it ships, and if you ever tear it down it’s easy to adjust end play as it has adjusters built in the housing! i got almost the same unit with the exception of the 5/8 studs. I got 35 spline axles, s trac diff, chromoly yoke, and had wilwood disc brakes to bolt up to it already.
I forgot to ask earlier but what kind of bearings are in the assembly for the axles? Are they tapered like the originals, or does Strange use green bearings? I don't do any corner burning so both will work for me, I'm just curious.
 
I forgot to ask earlier but what kind of bearings are in the assembly for the axles? Are they tapered like the originals, or does Strange use green bearings? I don't do any corner burning so both will work for me, I'm just curious.
Whichever ones you want, specify with your order. I had to get green bearings because of my wilwood disc brakes on the rear
 
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