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How's about a little fuel injection?

coloradodave said:
Need to put more miles on it. Mine took about 200 miles to self learn. Have fun!
Click to expand...

Yeah figured as much. Dave I gotta tell ya, the car is FASTER with the EFI. Much more power up in the RPM range than the 750.
 
Between you and @1967coronet440 I went ahead and pulled the trigger, went a little different direction though...bought the Terminator... Gawd I'm so far off from getting to use it!!!!
I'm glad to see your geting some enjoyment though, it's funny they all say intall in a day, but don't tell you it takes a week to get it tuned lol!
 
Mike67 said:
Between you and @1967coronet440 I went ahead and pulled the trigger, went a little different direction though...bought the Terminator... Gawd I'm so far off from getting to use it!!!!
I'm glad to see your geting some enjoyment though, it's funny they all say intall in a day, but don't tell you it takes a week to get it tuned lol!
Click to expand...

You're gonna love it, mike. I'll tell ya though, between the in-tank pump kit, replumbing the fuel lines, the throttle body and swapping in the flow tech headers, I had 15 hours in the install.
 
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The kit comes with the frame mounted 250l. I still have a cell but will probably buy a tank and do the Hyper fuel/Holley kit at some point. I spent a little more than I had intended, but I guess I can always make more!!!
The more I read the more options, more money ect....Thought about upgrading to PTFE incase I ever switch to E85...
Remember the days when the choices were limited dbl pumper or vacuum...made our decisions much easier!!!
 
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Will a drop base air cleaner fit over the throttle body? They look fat.
 
I'm using 1/2" aluminum spacers on mine. With AN fittings you need to use a 45* or 90* fittings off the throttle bodies. Straights will hit the base.

DSCN0238.JPG
 
Well after about 150 miles, what a difference. Car still hunts a little at idle, but boy she runs good.

Some transitions are still a little shaky, stumbles once in a while when accelerating from a coast, especially from engine braking. Transition to idle is a little drawn out sometimes and I think it could use a bit more fuel on cold start.

Crazy how noticeably it’s tuned itself up to this point. From first fire up till now it’s like I’ve taken it to a tuning shop. I figure it’ll iron things out on its own... let’s give it another hundred miles.

Also, finally opened up the rev limit to 6000 from the 5000 I had set at break in. Seems to be breaking up a bit from 5400 on up, so I’ll be taking a couple degrees of timing out. Let’s see how the fitech deals with that.
 
HT413 said:
Well after about 150 miles, what a difference. Car still hunts a little at idle, but boy she runs good.

Some transitions are still a little shaky, stumbles once in a while when accelerating from a coast, especially from engine braking. Transition to idle is a little drawn out sometimes and I think it could use a bit more fuel on cold start.

Crazy how noticeably it’s tuned itself up to this point. From first fire up till now it’s like I’ve taken it to a tuning shop. I figure it’ll iron things out on its own... let’s give it another hundred miles.

Also, finally opened up the rev limit to 6000 from the 5000 I had set at break in. Seems to be breaking up a bit from 5400 on up, so I’ll be taking a couple degrees of timing out. Let’s see how the fitech deals with that.
Click to expand...
Interesthing , veeerry interesting !
 
So... went to take out some timing and noticed it was at 22* idle and 44* all in. Doh! Explains the detonation. Down to 16/38 - test drive tomorrow.
 
HT413 said:
Well after about 150 miles, what a difference. Car still hunts a little at idle, but boy she runs good.

Some transitions are still a little shaky, stumbles once in a while when accelerating from a coast, especially from engine braking. Transition to idle is a little drawn out sometimes and I think it could use a bit more fuel on cold start.

Crazy how noticeably it’s tuned itself up to this point. From first fire up till now it’s like I’ve taken it to a tuning shop. I figure it’ll iron things out on its own... let’s give it another hundred miles.

Also, finally opened up the rev limit to 6000 from the 5000 I had set at break in. Seems to be breaking up a bit from 5400 on up, so I’ll be taking a couple degrees of timing out. Let’s see how the fitech deals with that.
Click to expand...
This guy had some good tips for tuning, I think you may be able to correct your stumble coming off a coast using some of the adjustments he speaks about.

 
1967coronet440 said:
This guy had some good tips for tuning, I think you may be able to correct your stumble coming off a coast using some of the adjustments he speaks about.

Click to expand...


Hey man, that guy I think solves everyone of the issues I’m having. Thanks!
 
Solved a couple of problems today. First, the vent was spitting a decent amount of fuel, explaining my 9-10 mpg. So I finally ran the vent loop up into the trunk like OEM.

Also, had to adjust my timing just a hair - was better with the changes I already made, but still breaking up a hair up around 5600 rpm, so I lowered it down to 36 all in, bringing idle advance down to like 12-14. Can’t wait to get the new pro billet dizzy and lock that bitch out so I can use the fitech to control timing. Maybe this winter.

Lowered the idle a bit down to 900. Was pushing a bit too much at idle at a stop light.

Raised the idle AFR from 13.6 to 13.9, maybe I’m wrong but seems 13.6 is a bit rich at idle.

All that had a serious impact on IAC steps. Had it at like 8, but with the changes it was at like 150 at warm idle. Ended up turning the drivers side idle screw basically all in and lowest I could get IAC steps was like 25. There’s a passenger side idle screw near the fuel return. Noticed the butterfly’s were off that screw a hair, so I turned it in to meet it and just 1/2 turn further in to engage them and the IAC steps came right down to 5/6.

Hope to test drive tomorrow.
:steering::thumbsup:
 
SO,the car that would never run is running like a scolded child:thumbsup:

Maybe stop by Atco Saturday or E/town Sunday when the car that will never run in the 9's will be in the 8's:rofl:
 
Seems I just got lucky. Just came back down to the garage to button things up and do the old ‘smell test’ before bed when I noticed a decent little puddle of fuel below the tank.

The quick on/off of the key to save each programming change I made also cycled on the fuel pump. No sure if that did something but I’m sure that leak was never there... Not opening up this can of worms tonight, so the old girl will be sleeping out under the stars.

Sure glad I came out to check one last time.
 
Found the leak. The hyfuel comes with a removable regulator, which they recommend to remove the fitech has its own regulator. Well, the plug they provide was the culprit.

After removing it and replacing the o rings it still leaked, so I compared the plug with the regulator and noticed some dimensional differences. So I decided to go against recommendations and reinstall the regulator.

I guess if the fuel pump reg was set below the reg in the throttle body, I’d get a fuel supply issue, but even at full throttle the AFR was fine so and no leaks so...

:thumbsup:
 
HT413 said:
Found the leak. The hyfuel comes with a removable regulator, which they recommend to remove the fitech has its own regulator. Well, the plug they provide was the culprit.

After removing it and replacing the o rings it still leaked, so I compared the plug with the regulator and noticed some dimensional differences. So I decided to go against recommendations and reinstall the regulator.

I guess if the fuel pump reg was set below the reg in the throttle body, I’d get a fuel supply issue, but even at full throttle the AFR was fine so and no leaks so...

:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
I had the same problem with the plug. when I got the new Orings from FiTech the small one was smaller than the one supplied. ended up they installed the wrong Oring from factory.
if any body is going to use the timing control. there is only 1 distributor that works with Fitech. MSD Pro Billet. for small block Mopar MSD 8534 is recammended. then you have to get the adjustable rotor model # 84211. you have to phase the distributor after you lock it out. this is done by drilling a hole next to the number 1 in the cap so you can see inside and adjust the rotor to spark at the correct point. DeLeon Dyno tuning fixed my mistakes. I learned a lot from them this week.
 
HT which intake are you running? You might have mentioned but I didnt go through the whole post again.
I have the RPM and have some concerns...seems like FI units prefer single plane from what I've read, but I've also read that milling down the floor divider a 1/4-3/8" will make the RPM work fine...My intake is brand new and I really don't want to shell out another $300+...
Thanks!
 
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