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Cutting input shaft of 833 for auto crank.....

Cranky

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Asking for someone else since I do not do this myself. Some do not have a problem with it but others do and I'm in that camp. So, when converting from an auto to a stick and the crank isn't deep enough for the input shaft, how much do you generally have to cut off to make it work. The pilot bearing for the shortened shaft will be used with this so that's not going to be an issue.
 
5/8" is what a 383 crank needs to be drilled. Dont know why a 440 would be different.
 
If I recall the shaft tapers. The pilot fits on an upsized section about an inch back from the end. You could easily cut the first smaller peice off. I was in the "drill you crank shaft club". It took some time but it was easy. My engine was out of the car though, so it wasn't an issue for me.
I went back to my thread and I mentioned 7/16" to cut. Not sure if that was a measurement from my engine's pilot hole or what. But as I said, I drilled mine.

It's on this page......

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/69-road-runner-like-i-needed-another.107905/page-7
 
Hmm I was informed none on my setup I am running a 72 340 mag I believe it was a forged crank it's been awhile since I looked . I would also be curious if I need to do any cutting
 
all the original Automatic engines, forged crank 340 and 440 HP blocks That I presently own or have come across have been drilled for the Manual transmission, But not all the 383 HP engines. Maybe my experience is unique. I even had an original 1974 440 HP engine from a Charger, and it was a forged crank,and drilled for a stick. The vin on the block matched the car, so it was original. Even though sticks,weren't offered by 74', Chrysler obviously wanted to use up the remaining 440 engines.
 
My 76 360 wasn't drilled for the correct outer pilot bushing diameter, but it was deep enough.
Doug
 
Maybe this can help. The left (B&W) side is dimensions from an UNCUT trans input and stock bell. The right side is a stock '68 440 automatic crank NOT drilled to the stock 4 speed bushing diameter (green area). It does have adequate depth. Taking the .850" diameter deeper may get you in trouble with the oil gallery.......................

CrankDepthDiam1.jpg
CrnkFlgNoBushArea.jpg
 
I think it was about 3/4". I trial fit it a few times on the most recent one as the bell was a mess after being welded. It's not a big deal. No effect on performance.
 
Daves 69 your drawing even prettier than mine made on since. I have had the 5/8 inch drilled numerous time and always successful.
 

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