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69 B Body Axle Tube Markings

1969 beep beep

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Does anyone have any pics of axle tube markings and date code locations. I am also looking for the correct font and size of the numbers. I do not have the build sheet for my car. I think I have to add 524 on my drivers side tube for the A36 package that is on my car. This is what I have so far.

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Here is some info from the David Wise books. Take it for what it's worth as I have found many discrepancies and errors. Any markings I have experienced on an 8 3/4 are on the inside of the left axle tube near the third member (last photo is the 8 3/4 from my E-body.) Hope this helps...
 
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Wow - very cool! I've just never seen markings like that. Goes to show that anything goes with Mopar. Hope the other info with the numbers helps you decide which code to paint on your axle tube.
 
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Here is some info from the David Wise books. Take it for what it's worth as I have found many discrepancies and errors. The "B" on your diff. looks a bit large and unnatural - remember, these were painted on quickly by hand and not much care was taken when doing so. Also those markings on the rear side of the left tube don't belong there. Any markings I have experienced on an 8 3/4 are on the inside of the left axle tube near the third member (last photo is the 8 3/4 from my E-body.) Hope this helps...
Nicely done on the E body rear GC!

DW books are a great resource but are not a 100% "How to detail/build" a Mopar...Just as you noted above...

Always clean your parts with a degreaser and inspect to find anything if possible....Worst thing is to just get blast happy. I have degreased parts and seen no markings and those same parts I placed in Evaporust and after a 24hr soak I found some markings...My GTX I probably only blasted less than 5 small parts on the whole car...

Plants did things differently on most markings/daubs so a Ham build will not be the same as a Lynch Road build. The numbers are the only consistent things plants did in line with each other....

As GC noted if the marks are perfect it is NOT assembly line correct.....Just be sloppy with the marks and paint daubs....It gets crazier when you do these markings as a guy underneath the car would do with a brush and a stamp.....then angle and brush marks come into play...
 
Thanks for the info guys. I didn't like the way that B turned out. I did make it as large as the original but it does look to perfect. I went over it to many times which in turn made the B wider. I have to live with it. I powder coated the diff. To much work to redo at this point.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I didn't like the way that B turned out. I did make it as large as the original but it does look to perfect. I went over it to many times which in turn made the B wider. I have to live with it. I powder coated the diff. To much work to redo at this point.
If you duplicated it to the "T" then it would be too nice and not correct....

It was correct once, thats it....So your mark is the second trip down the assembly line.....Do not sweat that a bit...Fan out some brush strokes at your start and finish(you can still add that)...

Do not take offense but if your shooting for 100% OE...Powder coat is a big "NO NO" and will get caught....

That aside your first pic looks nicely done just add some brush strokes....
 
I debated on painting or powder coating. I decided to take the powder coat route, just for long term durability.

I will try to fix that B and hopefully it turns out.

GC what did you use for the numbers? Was it a stamp or stencil? It does look amazing. Nice work.
 
I would not sweat the "B" that much it is fine....

Durability depends on driveability.....if you drive the car a lot pc is the most durable but one chip you cannot adequately touch it up without noticing...

You can easily get stamps made or buy them from sylvan up in Canada....

Some I have may work for your and your welcome to borrow them....
 
Moparnation is correct about the stamps. I made a stencil for my numbers using info from the DW book. In the book, there is a page with numbers printed to their actual sizes. I just photocopied the page and cut out the numbers I needed and painted them in. It was certainly cheaper than the stamps but a bit more labor-intensive and not quite as accurate. I also can't agree more with Moparnation regarding the care needed in the cleaning process. As you can see what I discovered with my original rear by going slowly and not using abrasives...
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The "D" on the back of my 8-3/4 looks like they just slapped it on with the brush from a big bottle of white out...
 
Thanks moparnation for the offer. Never heard of sylvan?
 
GC, What does the 3L18 represent?
210 would represent February 10th, but did they ever include 69 for the year?
 
The 3L18 is a mystery to me. In one of the pics I posted from the DW book, there is a "K111" stamped in that area and a "4L3" shown in another photo. The book states they are the 3rd member assembly dates but nowhere can I find out what the significance of the letters are and why they appear at random (ie: sometimes the first character in the sequence, sometimes the second, etc...)
 
Well, this is very interesting to me because back in the 80's my entire rear end was replaced in my 73 RR because I seized one of the axle bearings, so the shop at the time just found a replacement and installed it. So after seeing these pictures and looking at mine, wondering now if I have a rear housing from a 68 or was this done on all housing into the 70's? Here is the picture I took before I restored the rear end.

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Thanks GC. Have a look at this pic of my axle tube. This is on the passenger side facing the front of the car. I expected to see this on the drivers side if this is the axle Broadcast Sheet number. Maybe this is the date code?

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We all know it's an inspection mark, but what does the big yellow "B" on the rear of the axle mean anyway?
 
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