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What to heat the garage with????

BeeKool said:
View attachment 537653
Here you go.
Loving the smell of diesel in the morning
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I use K1 and no smell. Heats the air and that's all you need. Heats 30 x 50 x12.5 (3) bay garage in 30 minutes just fine. Run ceiling fan to keep heat at floor level. Walls not insulated. Doors insulated. Ceiling insulated with 3'blown in fiber.
 
One other benefit of in-floor radiant heat no one has mentioned is the reduction in insulation costs. Heat loss increases as the indoor/outdoor temperature differential increases. With radiant the air temperature will be the same at the ceiling as it is 12" above the floor. Hot air rises so direct air heating sources cause a greater floor to ceiling temperature differential and thus a need for heavier ceiling insulation.
Mike
 
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493 Mike said:
One other benefit of in-floor radiant heat no one has mentioned is the reduction in insulation costs. Heat loss increases as the indoor/outdoor temperature differential increases. With radiant the air temperature will be the same at the ceiling as it is 12" above the floor. Hot air rises so direct air heating sources cause a greater floor to ceiling temperature differential and thus a need for heavier ceiling insulation.
Mike
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Just trying to understand. In floor is radiant heat and the overhead tubes are radiant heat. How much more efficient is the infloor? I know the initial cost difference is huge for a project like i am going to undertake. So thinking short term and long term.
 
To hook mine up the the local gas Co,they want a plumber to pressure test the line before installing a meter as a large cost.I witched to BBQ style tanks that feed a Modine with a different jet and it works gteat!
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
To hook mine up the the local gas Co,they want a plumber to pressure test the line before installing a meter as a large cost.I witched to BBQ style tanks that feed a Modine with a different jet and it works gteat!
Click to expand...
How about a propane tank? they come in various sizes. Most propane companies offer a summertime contract at lower summertime prices...........................MO
 
PP1RT said:
Just trying to understand. In floor is radiant heat and the overhead tubes are radiant heat. How much more efficient is the infloor? I know the initial cost difference is huge for a project like i am going to undertake. So thinking short term and long term.
Click to expand...
The water does not require much heat to provide a comfortable temperature. 85* is about the maximum temperature for the floor surface or you will become uncomfortable. Therefore less fuel is used heating the water, depending on the efficiency of the heat source/boiler.
Mike
 
I have a 30 x 50 x10 ft ceiling barn very well insulated bought a $250 menards propane wall heater and a $180 smaller one in my office(within the barn) plus $50 in misc. b.s. ran a line from my main tank for about $75. I spend about $200 to 250 a year in fuel never gets below 55, (leave both on number one setting) and can heat it up to 70 to 75 depending how cold it is outside,within the main area, with a twist of the wrist. I have about 8 hours into install(that includes trenching the line and hard piping gas line.). haven't had a problem with it in 8 years.
 
I have a 30 x 50 x10 ft ceiling barn very well insulated bought a $250 menards propane wall heater and a $180 smaller one in my office(within the barn) plus $50 in misc. b.s. ran a line from my main tank for about $75. I spend about $200 to 250 a year in fuel never gets below 55, (leave both on number one setting) and can heat it up to 70 to 75 depending how cold it is outside,within the main area, with a twist of the wrist. I have about 8 hours into install(that includes trenching the line and hard piping gas line.). haven't had a problem with it in 8 years.
 
Cornpatch MO said:
How about a propane tank? they come in various sizes. Most propane companies offer a summertime contract at lower summertime prices...........................MO
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I just obtained an upright that I can still move to refill.I didn't know they could be converted and btpass all the gas company bullshit.
 
Cornpatch MO said:
How about a propane tank? they come in various sizes. Most propane companies offer a summertime contract at lower summertime prices...........................MO
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Where I live they'll drop off a tank (the really big ones) and you'll just pay to have it refilled. After a year they can turn it into a budget plan where they average your cost over the whole year and break it down into a small monthly payment
 
propane is a shitty market some times, I live in the sticks so no natural gas hook ups. propane is about $1.50 gal delivered right now I've see it over $5 with a rented tank which costs about $50 year, or u can buy a tank for around a $1000, and shop for your propane. my house has a propane furnace, don't use it much, old farm house redone about 10 years ago leaks a little here and there, couldn't afford spray foam back then and went with standard fiberglass, but went thru with small cans of spray foam to find as many gaps as possible. cost me 3200 a year to heat my home for the winter, bought a wood pellet burner cost me about $700 a year and wood heat is so nice, does require daily fill-ups. still have a big propane tank for stove, hot water and barn.
 
We pay about $120 a month and cook with it as well but like you we offset it with a Woodburner. Our furnace is the primary heat but we have a large living room where we use the woodburner. It's a small insert but is very effecient and does a great job with the ceiling fans keeping the air moving.

The reason I never went with the outdoor boiler is cost vs propane, I'd have to run it for 10 years for it to pay for itself. Of coarse there's all the extra labor in firewood, repairs vs simply turning the thermostat up lol. I love propane.
 
I use electric 220v ceiling unit. I installed this over 10 years ago. I works great and I keep the garage about 50 till I work in there. As a bonus I unhook the heating element so it's a fan to move air in the summer. This was about 2k cheaper for me at the time over gas. If I was going to do it over again I would use a 2 piece wall unit. AC plus heat because as I get older the heat is starting to get to me more and more. Now the garage had R40+ ceiling R15 walls with drywall and insulated garage door with seals when I moved in. With all that insulation the side door had no seals and a dog door. I installed a insulated pre-hung door that made the garage easy to heat.

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PP1RT said:
If you want to add a lift of some sort or anything else that you need to sink anchors in the floor how do you know you wont hit a line?
That is my concern.
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Run a wire beside the line in the areas where the lift might eventually end up. A metal detector will find it.
 
mopar 3 B said:
Run a wire beside the line in the areas where the lift might eventually end up. A metal detector will find it.
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Good idea. Tracer line like my buried LP line. Hadn't thought of that. Thanks
 
you can use a hot water heater for a boiler in a barn seen it done works good and cheap we found lines in concrete with an infra red camera, was attatching wall plates to the floor didn't wanna hit them, no more than 2" deep in this application standard concrete. these tubes were about a foot apart.
 
Don selleck said:
you can use a hot water heater for a boiler in a barn seen it done works good and cheap we found lines in concrete with an infra red camera, was attatching wall plates to the floor didn't wanna hit them, no more than 2" deep in this application standard concrete. these tubes were about a foot apart.
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No self leveling? Was a slope on the floor required?
 
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