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How would you remove clear silicone?

Dibbons

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The plastic "moisture barrier" I tried to affix to the inside of the door panels fell off. I guess by the time I had a silicone bead laid all around the inside of the door, it must have skimmed over and not stuck very well to the plastic. I am going to use some old-fashioned rope seal on my second attempt. The silicone DID stick to the door and I want to take it off before I move forward. I don't want to use a razor blade on the recently painted (inside) door and this stuff resists being peeled off by hand. A video I found (see link) suggests WD-40.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-mozilla-002&hsimp=yhs-002&hspart=mozilla&p=how+to+remove+clear+silicone?#id=1&vid=320729020fabf9f9ed794fc39a3b8dc5&action=click

DSC01321.JPG DSC01322.JPG rope caulk.png rope caulk 2.jpg
 
Here in Canada we get silicone remover made by Dow Corning, I presume it's available in the U.S.as well. I use it all of the time. Here's all I can offer for advice:
Be patient. Put the stuff on, wait a few HOURS. Scrub off the silicone with a dish scrubber pad. Reapply the remover. It takes a few rounds to get it all.
People will suggest a bunch of tricks, ie: use WD40. They are wrong. These "tricks" don't work and will leave the surface contaminated so that nothing will stick. Use silicone remover.
 
Can't tell you how many ruined door panels I have seen because the plastic barrier was never replaced.
Most people do not know why it is there and just throw it away when they put the door back together.
 
Use a plastic scrapper and the remover. As far as re-installing you could use sime 3m adhesive spray. Lightly spray both the door and barrier and you wont have any issues with it sliding or coming off...
 
Rope caulk is a good replacement for what the factory used and it will allow you to remove and reinstall without fuss in the future. Even comes in colors if you are really ****. I have gotten it at Home Depot and Ace Hardware. Comes in a roll about 5 cords wide and a little like playing with Play-do(sp).
 
Rope caulk is a good replacement for what the factory used and it will allow you to remove and reinstall without fuss in the future. Even comes in colors if you are really ****. I have gotten it at Home Depot and Ace Hardware. Comes in a roll about 5 cords wide and a little like playing with Play-do(sp).

Rope chalk is what Moparnation74 used on his restoration .
 
Dibbons, go get a 3M or similar brand decal eraser wheel, they come with a arbor to chuck into the end of a 3/8 drill.
the wheel itself is made out of a gum rubber , we use them all the time for decal and glue/ adhesive removal, I have used them on silicone also and they work fine.
Just watch the heat build up if running many rpms on the drill.
 
Just my opinion, but you should still use the silicone remover. The silicone gets right into the pores and you need to get it out or the new adhesive won't stick. I'm a pro painter and I can't count the amount of times I've been screwed by silicone that you couldn't see. If you don't physically remove every speck of it either by abrasion or chemicals it will bite you.
 
I can't find a decal eraser wheel nor any liquid product silicone remover here in Mexico. I tried what I have on hand: citrus adhesive remover-no-go; and mechanic's gel-type hand cleaner-no go; and easy-off oven cleaner-no go. I also read somewhere that a hair dryer might be a useful aid (haven't tried that yet).

Then I found a website article suggesting: 1) a paste of white flour and water; and/or 2) using a crepe eraser. As an alternative to a "crepe" eraser, it suggests the sole of a summer "flip-flop" type sandal uses crepe as a material. I have my doubts, but when desperate I will try just about anything.
web article:

Start by cutting off as much of the old silicone caulking as you can. Then make a thick paste with ordinary flour and water. Don't use whole wheat flower, we need the good old fashioned sticky stuff. Take this dough-like putty and rub it over the bit of silicone that is still forming a film on the tile or tub. This dough will roll the silicone up into itself and then you can rinse off the dough -- leaving a clean surface ready for new caulking.

Even more reliable is to use crepe as an eraser. You can actually purchase crepe blocks designed for cleaning sandpaper from such woodworking stores as LeeValley.com or you can simply use old crepe shoe soles. The silicone tends to roll up under the crepe, leaving the surface well 'erased' and ready for fresh caulking.
 
Flour and water is kids glue. I'll be amazed if it works.
 
Here's another online suggestion (big pink eraser):

Pretty easy to do. Scrape/cut off the bulk of the silicone (I like to use a sharpened putty knife for this). Then rub the eraser over the silicone still left on your item. It will come off very easy this way. And leaves a clean surface to re-bed your items on. It helps if you have a vacuum to vacuum up the pink eraser/silicone mixture as you do this.

I have used this method of removal on glass, fiberglass and aluminum. No idea how it will work on wood.

eraser.jpg
 
Wax and grease remover and a plastic sturdy squeegie
 
Wax and grease remover was ineffective. Plastic putty knife is a little too soft/flexible. Hair dryer did squat. Baking soda/water paste and a toothbrush was a waste of time and energy.

I am finding that scratching around my fingernails is more effective than any of the home remedies so far. It's time for a beer.
 
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Xylene but it will also remove the paint.
If you have a Home Depot - Motsenbockers sku 265911. Have plenty of towels on hand but it will remove it.
 
Wax and grease remover was ineffective. Plastic putty knife is a little too soft/flexible. Hair dryer did squat. Baking soda/water paste and a toothbrush was a waste of time and energy.

I am finding that scratching around my fingernails is more effective than any of the home remedies so far. It's time for a beer.
I dont think beer will remove it
 
to install the moisture barrier plastic I use seam sealer in caulk gun press it on let it set up always works for me / it will clean up or remove with varsol or laqure thiners , but using wd40 would get you fired for using it in or near the body shops I worked in if the boss didnt get you the painter would
 
Update: Post #13 recommended two products, a rubber wheel and a 3M brand caulk remover.

The rubber wheel did nothing that I could see.

The caulk remover did a good job of removing the silicone, as well as removing the paint underneath it (did not remove the factory paint, but took off the top coat which was the new body color--Bahama Yellow). I only used the caulk remover on a couple of "test" areas.

In conclusion, i decided to leave the silicone alone, and go around it with whatever final adhesive I choose. Once the door panel is secure, I am sure the plastic barrier won't be going anywhere. The seam sealer would work, but now i have a package of rope caulk I will try out first.
 
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