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Replaced leaky oil pan...no oil pressure. Prime?

DrewTX

DrewTX

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I just replaced my oil pan gasket on my 1971 318, which was running great last week except for having the leak. I removed the center link, tie rods, etc. and replaced the gasket and filled with oil. I did not touch the oil pump and there was a windage pan-tray installed by the previous owner. I cranked a few times with the distributor disconnected but got no oil pressure, and didn't sound too good like a scraping sound (oh please no). I ordered a primer rod online, but can't seem to get the distributor slotted drive or receiver out at the gear. I tried to turn both ways with a flat head screw driver...and no movement either way. Is it threaded? Or does the gear just set in place? Any tips on this? I sure hope I didn't destroy my motor in a few cranks. Ughhhhh...I'm so frustrated. Just a gasket replacement turns into this?
 
DrewTX said:
I just replaced my oil pan gasket on my 1971 318, which was running great last week except for having the leak. I removed the center link, tie rods, etc. and replaced the gasket and filled with oil. I did not touch the oil pump and there was a windage pan-tray installed by the previous owner. I cranked a few times with the distributor disconnected but got no oil pressure, and didn't sound too good like a scraping sound (oh please no). I ordered a primer rod online, but can't seem to get the distributor slotted drive or receiver out at the gear. I tried to turn both ways with a flat head screw driver...and no movement either way. Is it threaded? Or does the gear just set in place? Any tips on this? I sure hope I didn't destroy my motor in a few cranks. Ughhhhh...I'm so frustrated. Just a gasket replacement turns into this?
Click to expand...


Now that I think of it, maybe the sound was the transmission lower view cover. This would make sense.
 
Aftermarket gauge or factory in dash light for oil pressure? Could be the oil drained out of the pump. Did you mess with the pickup and was it tight when you reinstalled the pan?

The drive gear should just twist out, not threaded.
 
DrewTX said:
..........I tried to turn both ways with a flat head screw driver...and no movement either way..........
Click to expand...

I believe clockwise should cause the gear to lift. Take a picture where it's at before you remove it.
 
I recently did an oil change and thought it would be a good idea to let it drain all day. Started up and no pressure. Ended up losing prime. Take pictures as you go, especially where the gear slot is pointed. To prime, take off distributor, turn the gear counter clockwise with a long flat head screw driver. Don't put any pressure downward as it will keep the gear from lifting up. Once your screw driver is engaged in the slot only twist counter clockwise, don't press down. I use an extra long pair of needle nose to pull it out.

You will need to make a long piece of hex rod and chuck it up in your drill to turn it over. I got mine cheap at a local metal fab shop. I wrapped electrical tape on the hex where it could come in contact with where the distributor sits so as not to scratch it up. I found that my battery powered drill would not turn fast enough and ended up using my plug in corded drill. You will know when you have oil pressure as you will feel your drill bog down. If I remember correctly you want to run your drill counter clockwise.

Best of luck. Don't forget to set the timing after you put the distributor back on.
 
Charger21 said:
I recently did an oil change and thought it would be a good idea to let it drain all day. Started up and no pressure. Ended up losing prime. Take pictures as you go, especially where the gear slot is pointed. To prime, take off distributor, turn the gear counter clockwise with a long flat head screw driver. Don't put any pressure downward as it will keep the gear from lifting up. Once your screw driver is engaged in the slot only twist counter clockwise, don't press down. I use an extra long pair of needle nose to pull it out.

You will need to make a long piece of hex rod and chuck it up in your drill to turn it over. I got mine cheap at a local metal fab shop. I wrapped electrical tape on the hex where it could come in contact with where the distributor sits so as not to scratch it up. I found that my battery powered drill would not turn fast enough and ended up using my plug in corded drill. You will know when you have oil pressure as you will feel your drill bog down. If I remember correctly you want to run your drill counter clockwise.

Best of luck. Don't forget to set the timing after you put the distributor back on.
Click to expand...
Big thanks!
 
You might try to prime it by putting oil in through oil pressure sender. Think its 1/8" npt, you have to buy coupler that increases the size of pipe. Say 1/8 npt to 1/4" npt etc until you can fit a funnel.
 
Had the pan replaced on a 67 Barracuda last year. Work was done in a good local shop. Owner called and asked if there was a problem with oil pressure. There was none when they started engine. Any way some how the shaft had twisted off and they had to take pan off again and replace shaft.
 
If there is enough varnish on the pump drive shaft it will not come past the bushing easily. I find a piece of 1/8" gas welding rod with a short 90* bend will allow you to pull up as you rotate the gear with your large screwdriver.
Mike
 
The torque converter cover is a frequent problem...That damn thing distorts even 1/8" and it gets hit by the flywheel bolts, resulting in that terrible scraping noise. I've had it happen quite often. Friends of mine have too, there even was a bit on Graveyard Cars where it happened to them.
The only time I had oil pressure problems on startup were when a gallery plug was left out. I read here and there about these cases where an engine has a loss of oil pressure after an oil change and a NEW quality filter often cures it. Otherwise, there is the previously written suggestion of priming the pump. The LA series engines use a distributor and oil pump drive that comes out by turning it counter clockwise. You may have to rock it back and forth. Also, as mentioned, it may be glazed and prefer to stay where it is. With the intake off, you might be able to pry up on it from the sides with some small pry-bar. Me? I'd put on a WIX or a NAPA brand filter that has oil in it and spin the engine with the coil wire removed. At cranking speed, I wouldn't expect to see more than 8-10 lbs of oil pressure anyway. The torque converter scraping may be making you see things that are not there. The engine is probably fine.
 
Charger21 said:
If I remember correctly you want to run your drill counter clockwise.

Best of luck.
Click to expand...

The B and RB series distributors run counter clockwise, as do their oil pumps. OP has a 318 so the direction he needs is Clockwise.
 
Thanks Kern Dog. Mine is a B engine so mine goes the other way. Appreciate the correction.
 
Thanks for all the feedback, greatly appreciated! I had a stud mount for the lower starter bolt that made it really tricking to get the trans cover in place, likely distorting it. I removed it and straitened the cover- no more scraping. Funny story, I didn't want to wait 3 days to get a oil primer via amazon. It turns out the hex on my drill paint mixer is exactly the right size. Cut it off and primed the oil pump. I thought I had a leaking oil pan, that was a pain to replace dropping the center link-tie rods, etc. It turned out to be that wonderfully engineered oil filter plate seas. What's up with that? I got the aluminum replacement and back on the road! Thanks again everyone!
 
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