Fitting an electric fan in a 62-65

Centerline · Nov 16, 2017

Looking for ideas on what works.

There really isn't a lot of room between the rad and water pump pulley and I'm just wondering what others have done to fit an electric fan. I have a new 16" Spal fan but I'm not sure it will fit and I'm not sure the popular Mercedes "C" model fan will fit either.

Please don't tell me to just use a mechanical fan... that is the fall back plan, just wondering how those who actually use an electric fan have done it.

Any ideas??

Yatzee · Nov 16, 2017

Centerline said:
Looking for ideas on what works.

There really isn't a lot of room between the rad and water pump pulley and I'm just wondering what others have done to fit an electric fan. I have a new 16" Spal fan but I'm not sure it will fit and I'm not sure the popular Mercedes "C" model fan will fit either.

Please don't tell me to just use a mechanical fan... that is the fall back plan, just wondering how those who actually use an electric fan have done it.

Any ideas??

Here's what works for me and really is a good combo for any early Mopar especially with a 22 inch radiator. My engine is a 512 stroker/ 625 Hp. The fan is a Derale Tornado 16" that you will see partly down the page. Powerfull, quiet, efficient with low startup amps. Just buy the fan (any brand) not the stupid insert thermal controller. Their lame to say the least and run short on function.

https://derale.com/products/electric-fans/universal-electric-fans/tornado

This is the controller of choice. If you run a low temp thermostat this will control engine temperature to any thing above once the stat opens. Read the functionability of this unit and you'll see what I mean. I have one for engine temperature and one for tranny cooling fans.
Both 3 years old, not a single issue.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/dak-pac-2750/overview/

I put a fabricated ( sheet metal shop $50 ) that encapsulates the entire rad face and is sealed all around. This fan mounts nicely in the shroud hole without a great amount of work and the blades are centered with the back face of the shroud. The small looking tube on the left side is an overflow bottle, 25" long and made entirely of 2" ABS pipe and fittings. The white $hit you see is light reflection off the fittings.

black64 · Nov 16, 2017

Here is a fan that might work for you but I don't remember manufacturer. Also I used one of cooling components fans on my 40 ford that only had 4.25 inch clearance.

HEMI-ITIS · Nov 16, 2017

The Spal is fantastic and wish I bought it sooner.The mounting design is great and makes it VERY easy to install.I have NO room between the rad & blower belt.After my junkyard fan exploded and scarred the new aluminum rad,,,installed a 16 inch pusher that blows so hard it cools the water pump!

PurpleBeeper · Nov 16, 2017

Well, here's my 2-cents.....
1. Find the lowest profile fan you can find (usually in the dimension specifications)
2. Offset the fan off to one side a little to clear the water pump "snout"
3. Definitely fabricate a shroud to seal to the fan/radiator
4. If there is NO WAY to get a shroud in there & you have to bolt the fan TO the radiator, use those "zip tie, through the radiator" attachments you can get at most part stores, use the little rubber pads that come with them & try to block absolutely as little of the radiator/fan air flow path as possible.
5. Run a relay to the fan(s)
6. "Pullers" work better than "pushers"

Centerline · Nov 16, 2017

Yatzee said:
Here's what works for me and really is a good combo for any early Mopar especially with a 22 inch radiator. My engine is a 512 stroker/ 625 Hp. The fan is a Derale Tornado 16" that you will see partly down the page. Powerfull, quiet, efficient with low startup amps. Just buy the fan (any brand) not the stupid insert thermal controller. Their lame to say the least and run short on function.

https://derale.com/products/electric-fans/universal-electric-fans/tornado

This is the controller of choice. If you run a low temp thermostat this will control engine temperature to any thing above once the stat opens. Read the functionability of this unit and you'll see what I mean. I have one for engine temperature and one for tranny cooling fans.
Both 3 years old, not a single issue.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/dak-pac-2750/overview/

I put a fabricated ( sheet metal shop $50 ) that encapsulates the entire rad face and is sealed all around. This fan mounts nicely in the shroud hole without a great amount of work and the blades are centered with the back face of the shroud. The small looking tube on the left side is an overflow bottle, 25" long and made entirely of 2" ABS pipe and fittings. The white $hit you see is light reflection off the fittings.

View attachment 539973

The question I have is how much room do you have between the radiator and water pump pulley? I have 5 1/2" between the radiator support and the water pump pulley. The Spal fan is 3 1/2" so that only leaves 2" for a radiator and I'm not sure a 2" thick aluminum radiator will do the job. It's a mildly built 440 with stock heads.

Yatzee · Nov 16, 2017

Centerline said:
The question I have is how much room do you have between the radiator and water pump pulley? I have 5 1/2" between the radiator support and the water pump pulley. The Spal fan is 3 1/2" so that only leaves 2" for a radiator and I'm not sure a 2" thick aluminum radiator will do the job. It's a mildly built 440 with stock heads.

As I said earlier the Derale is a wise choice. Doesn't whine like spal. The thickness of the Derale is only 1 3/4. That's why I removed my Spal which was very thick. With the Derale I had enough room to mount a 1 3/8 deep shroud. Oh by the way, the Dakoda Digital controllers I mentioned earlier have been residing on the right side of my rad support, in the engine compartment for three years without issue. Dakoda say they have to be in the cabin, not so.

Yatzee · Nov 16, 2017

Yatzee said:
As I said earlier the Derale is a wise choice. Doesn't whine like spal. The thickness of the Derale is only 1 3/4. That's why I removed my Spal which was very thick and sounded like a whirly-jig. With the Derale I had enough room to mount a 1 3/8 deep shroud. Oh by the way, the Dakoda Digital controllers I mentioned earlier have been residing on the right side of my rad support, in the engine compartment for three years without issue. Dakoda say they have to be in the cabin, not so.

Yatzee · Nov 16, 2017

As I said earlier the Derale is a wise choice. Doesn't whine like spal. The thickness of the Derale is only 1 3/4. That's why I removed my Spal which was very thick and sounded like a whirly-jig. With the Derale I had enough room to mount a 1 3/8 deep shroud. Oh by the way, the Dakoda Digital controllers I mentioned earlier have been residing on the right side of my rad support, in the engine compartment for three years without issue. Dakoda say they have to be in the cabin, not so.

Centerline · Nov 16, 2017

Yatzee said:
As I said earlier the Derale is a wise choice. Doesn't whine like spal. The thickness of the Derale is only 1 3/4. That's why I removed my Spal which was very thick and sounded like a whirly-jig. With the Derale I had enough room to mount a 1 3/8 deep shroud. Oh by the way, the Dakoda Digital controllers I mentioned earlier have been residing on the right side of my rad support, in the engine compartment for three years without issue. Dakoda say they have to be in the cabin, not so.

The link you posted shows the Tornado 16" fan as an overall depth of 3 7/8". That's why I asked. My Spal has a total depth of 3 1/2". Are you talking about a different Derale fan?

stage3 · Nov 17, 2017

I have very little clearance between the radiator and water pump pulley..i had to cut out some of the fan cage so as to clear the pulley..the pulley barely protrudes into the fan cage..still with plenty of clearance to clear everything...spal 1500 cfm units.now....no more heating problem...it was an air flow thing..

Centerline · Nov 17, 2017

stage3 said:
I have very little clearance between the radiator and water pump pulley..i had to cut out some of the fan cage so as to clear the pulley..the pulley barely protrudes into the fan cage..still with plenty of clearance to clear everything...spal 1500 cfm units.now....no more heating problem...it was an air flow thing..

View attachment 540262

Those look like pretty thick fans. Do you know the depth of them?? Also the thickness of your radiator. I've been looking at the ECP two row aluminum unit and yours looks to be very similar. Just asking...

stage3 · Nov 18, 2017

Centerline said:
Those look like pretty thick fans. Do you know the depth of them?? Also the thickness of your radiator. I've been looking at the ECP two row aluminum unit and yours looks to be very similar. Just asking...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30102157/overview/ these..

the radiator is designed for a 68-69 charger from griffin with 2 rows of 1 1/4" tubes..26" wide..this set up works great..

Brewzer67 · Nov 18, 2017

Here is a look at how I have my Coronet set up. I made and polished a custom shroud for 2 Spal 12" pullers and used Derales fan controller. At idle in 95 degree weather it holds it at 180 indefinitely. This is in front of a 700+ hp big block. It took a number of times trial fitting where I was going cut the holes and mount the fans but it fits like a glove in the limited space I have. If you need specific measurements I can get them for you. If memory serves me correctly I had 6" from the face of the water pump housing to the face of the radiator and 3" from the face of the assembled water pump to the face of the radiator. My final clearance is small but hasn't caused any issue so far.

HEMI-ITIS · Nov 18, 2017

The Spal mounting system is GREAT!!

Centerline · Nov 18, 2017

I'm beginning to think that a single puller just won't work unless its offset to clear the WP pulley and it looks like duals are the only way to make it work. That's unfortunate since I already have the Spal 16" fan and my budget won't allow duals... unless I sell the one I have.

On another note, was parked next to a friend with a '67 Shelby clone yesterday at a show and he had a couple 10" fans and shroud he bought off E-bay cooling his 347 injected stroker. Said they work very well and he has no cooling problems. That may be an option.

Thanks for the comments, guys.

ckessel · Nov 19, 2017

Here is a shot of my car. Some differences that may affect your outcome though, I'm using a 70 k[ moves engine back], made my own core support[ in same location with no difference in radiator location], Be Cool unit with their fans and the serpentine system from Jerry at SD Concepts.

Wmcmackin · Nov 21, 2017

I used a jegs fan with their relay kit everything fit perfect because the way the grille support is offset and has the little kick out on it

Centerline · Nov 21, 2017

Wmcmackin said:
I used a jegs fan with their relay kit everything fit perfect because the way the grille support is offset and has the little kick out on it

View attachment 542049 View attachment 542050

No problem putting a pusher on, but I don't like blocking the front of the radiator with anything. I don't even like having the AC condenser there.. but have no choice. The fan I have is a Spal puller and they are not reversible so mounting in front is not an option. Thanks for answering though.

Fitting an electric fan in a 62-65

Centerline

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Yatzee

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black64

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HEMI-ITIS

STREETER on LI

PurpleBeeper

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Centerline

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Yatzee

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Yatzee

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Yatzee

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Centerline

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stage3

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Centerline

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stage3

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Brewzer67

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HEMI-ITIS

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Centerline

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ckessel

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Wmcmackin

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Centerline

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