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383 71 charger

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velrob

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putting my heads back together

my comp cams kit came with Umbrella type valve seals. are they any good or should I go with positive type seals

IMG_20171111_013904.jpg
 
You must be new to engines? An industry standard valve stem seal used for at least 50 years or more.
If your springs and cam lift allow them use them.
 
yes I know they've been used for a long time but the machine shop I used to work on my motor said they where garbage so I wanted another opinion

and ya I'm building the motor myself as I intend to restore other cars
 
I would go back and ask for an explanation.
If they can not provide one it says heaps of their services good or bad.
Its one thing to call a product garbage and says even more about themselves if they can not tell you why.
Even tho I have never had a issue with Crane products the machine shops concerns maybe legit. Or there many be a reason to have everything they have done checked.
Hope it all works out.
 
this is why I'm doing a tolerance check on the crank.

I will use the seals that I have. these are umbrella type. are they supposed to travel up and down with the valve? they don't stay down
 
What oil do you recommend for break in ?

I bought some additive already just need the oil.
 
was able to find penngrade high performance 20w50.

two questions I'm reading different ways of the main seal. do I apply grease on the seal or silicone sealant?

im measuring the end gap on my rings and im getting over or close to. 040 on the top ring

not sure what the max allowable tolerance I can have? this block has been machined .060 over

will I notice extra oil usage or compression loss

these are sealed power rings

I'm building a stock motor
 
velrob said:
was able to find penngrade high performance 20w50.

two questions I'm reading different ways of the main seal. do I apply grease on the seal or silicone sealant?

im measuring the end gap on my rings and im getting over or close to. 040 on the top ring

not sure what the max allowable tolerance I can have? this block has been machined .060 over

will I notice extra oil usage or compression loss

these are sealed power rings

I'm building a stock motor
Click to expand...

Sounds like the wrong ring set, too much gap.
usually, to use the PC valve stem seals, you have to cut the OD diameter of the stock valve guides to fit?

Grease on the crank seal "lip" where it touches the crankshaft.
I don't use RTV "on" the seal, but a thin smear between the block and retainer, and maybe the block to retainer sides depending in the type of retainer side seal being used.
 
What type rear seal? Wick or rubber
If you are useing that paper looking side seals soak them in kerosene before installing. Use silicone as per 451 Mopar post.
The oil will do just fine.
 
Last edited:
it's the rubber seal I'll use greease then on the lip thanks.

I guess I'll order a new brand of rings. that sucks.

I didn't need to cut my valve seals
 
its a sealed power kit that came with rings, pistons, bearings, gaskets

so thats why its weird the rings have a huge gap when they are for .060 over unless they were boxed incorrectly which i guess is why the problem

im going to check all the rings and see. i guess i will measure the bore and see if they are to big versus the pistons
 
oh damn forgot to check google :)

i didnt find that specific page but i did google in for past couple weeks and the selection was all over from diesel oil to sae30 to 10w40 and ..............
 
If you believe every thing you find on google your a fool.
Your oil is fine and keep the worthless corn syrup STP out of your engine if you value it. The only thing I have found it good for is hardening in the bottom of the oil pan.
 
Didn't say it was your best friend, but its a source of information
 
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