Header Install

Can long tube headers be installed on a 440 in a 69 road runner with the engine in the car? Is there any need to partially (or completely) remove the engine to get them in?

I haven't done this in years in a b-body/BB setup but from memory, I had mine on jack stands with the motor mounts unbolted and raised the motor/trans with a jack/piece of wood to fit mine in. I can't remember if I had a mini starter in at that time or not. I'm sure someone else will chime in who has done it more recently. GL.

1) yes. 2) no. You just unbolt the mounts and lift the engine a little. What he just said ^

GTXperience said:

I haven't done this in years in a b-body/BB setup but from memory, I had mine on jack stands with the motor mounts unbolted and raised the motor/trans with a jack/piece of wood to fit mine in. I can't remember if I had a mini starter in at that time or not. I'm sure someone else will chime in who has done it more recently. GL.

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Likewise, but I’m pretty sure you’ll have to jack up a side at a time so have ur mtr mt thru-bolts rdy w/no nut on them. Starter,especially full-size, goes in after left header in engine bay but before mounting to head.

Depending on the headers, it does help to jack the motor up just an inch or two.. headers can be installed without doing it, but you'll save yourself some frustration if you do.. whatever you do get the car up on jack stands as high as you possibly can

Also, I have had exhaust bolt clearance issues before & had to put on a 2nd nut, hacksaw off maybe 1/4" & remove the 2nd nut to clean up the threads before, but don't freak out if that happens...maybe just jack the engine over a little bit more. For sure you want the car a mile up in the air (higher in front).

If you're taking off stock manifolds, use like a half can of PB Blaster & don't be afraid to put a torch to the nuts if necessary. You can always clean up the threads on the exhaust manifold stud, but if you break one, you normally have to pull that head off to repair it...so don't break the studs.

Lastly, be patient. Headers are a pain, but they will go on. Unbolting the starter and leaving it loose in there (or 1/2 unbolted) sounds like a good idea to me. Headers almost always go in easier from the bottom. If drag link gets in the way, just drop it off the idler/pitman arms (BIG hammer & a couple good smacks usually frees it). You won't have to get an alignment if you don't mess with the tie rod ends, just the drag link (aka center link)

When you jack up the engine you should disconnect the transmission linkage to prevent it from being damaged. Assuming an automatic with shifter on the column.

In my experience, jack the rear end of the car up as high as you can get it and put jackstands under the rear axle. I use 3 ton jacks as they go very high. Laying under the car, you will fish the header up from underneath. As others have said, as you install each side, you will want that side's motor mount bolt removed so you can partially tilt the motor over to gain some extra room. For the driver's side, you may want to remove the oil dipstick tube for even more clearance. The starter is a true PIA, as you will have to fish it up in there after the header is up and partially installed; I usually install the front header bolt just a little so something is partially supporting the header and it can flop around as you dick with the starter. The starter is the most frustrating part of the install. The passenger side is a breeze, but remember to reinstall the driver side motor mount bolt so you can tilt the passenger side over. MOST IMPORTANT, have some towels or bubble wrap draped over the driver's side fender, steering gear, and brake lines from booster so you don't end up scratching the hell out of the headers (especially if brand new and powder coated).

And I'm assuming you have a mini-starter of some sort.