If your cylinder walls are that thick there is no need to fill the block.I had my block sonic checked and they're sayin the walls are .300-.320 thick.
If your cylinder walls are that thick there is no need to fill the block.
But, what are the non-thrust sides and the pin sides? You should have at least 12 measurements for each cylinder.
this! the thin part is about 45 degrees from the thrust. also, chevies have a shorter cylinder and not as much flex, and big chevies have more iron in them.If your cylinder walls are that thick there is no need to fill the block.
But, what are the non-thrust sides and the pin sides? You should have at least 12 measurements for each cylinder.
do it yourself and then you'll know the truth.Well, it looks like i'd been better off if I had just thrown my money in the trash - I stopped in the machine shop to ask the guy where and how he measured the cyl walls . . . he got kinda agitated tried to explain what they'd done and they only measured 4 cylinders in one spot at about 10:30 and only at the top and middle of the cylinders. Gonna have to find someone else now. Is anybody aware somebody who might rent out a sonic checker ?
If you are look for 500-535 CID. Look at a 1971-75 413/426 HD block. Three of my block are .260-.280 on the thrust side with a 4.250 bore this is a block you can buy with a crank all day for $250. an sell the crank off. Run a 4.250-4.375 crank with 7.1 rod and a dam good head an cam. And hook the car up. The long rod will help you not to load the side of the block.
Not "spell checking" you, but if I use a stock Mopar block for my stroker build, BCR is the girdle system I am going to use. It is unique in its design and superior because of the differences. I point this out for accuracy.I just got my BRC girdle kit with billet main caps for it also.