When you said you did this a long time ago, did it work OK for a while and just start recently? Did you use an aftermarket harness or just modify the existing harness?
It's very important to determine where you spliced the dimmer module. Remember, courtesy lights operate by switches that supply ground while operational lights operate via switches that supply battery.
http://revolutionelectronics.com/13001-installation.pdf
The red lead, +12V powers the module. The Black lead is the ground for the module and to feed ground to the light after the the normally open door switch goes open, (door closes). The green lead senses the ground, triggers the timer and continues deliver ground to the dome lamp for 2 1/2 seconds after the door switch opens. The directions are a bit vague because it does not actually say whether they want you to isolate the dome light from the original harness. Or, if the module might be affected by the dimmer switch in the dash. I'm not sure on that one.
At this point I would disconnect the module.
The Clock has a single push on spade connector behind the clock on the dash cluster. The map light has a short pig tail with a dual lead plug in connector that will remove the ground. Might be easier to just remove the lamp for starters. The glove box switch usually has a pig tail with a bullet style plug in connector. All can be unplugged but you've got to get under the dash. It might be easier to drop the fuse box and see what can be done from there (???). I know what you mean about under the dash. Sometimes you just have to resort to removing the front seat.
There's a dead short on that fuse to something grounded. Since there are several paths to that fuse, what we are trying to do here is disconnect everything on that fuse and reconnect everything one at a time until the fuse goes, then go from there.
As I said before, hang in there.