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Brake Test

Moparfiend

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OK so unknown history with car. Car has been sitting for several years. Its my 1970 Sport Satellite which has power brakes with front discs.

I don’t have the engine running yet.

All four wheels spin free.

When I step on the brake its does not compress at all and feels hard as a rock. Feels like the pedal is fully compressed.

I don’t know much about the power booster but this does not seem normal?

Is there a way to test the brake master cylinder in the car? I might be able to supply a vacuum to the brake booster to test it?
 
With a car sitting the proper thing is to inspect and flush the whole system....Ensure there are no leaks and parts are working effectively.....The MC test is after you bleed the system is your foot on the pedal....The booster will need vacuum to test properly...
 
Soak the bleeder screws in Kroil or other penetrant overnight. When you crack the bleeders open, fluid should dribble out. If they don't or the color is brown you probably have rust inside the wheel cylinders and calipers and possibly seized cylinders. Brake fluid absorbs moisture so it is very common to see.

Get a helper to try and rotate each tire with brake depressed to see if they are working. Also, replace the rubber hoses while the system is apart if you go that far.
 
Always do the safety items first and properly. Some or all parts of the brake system are probably OE. 47 years old. Standard brake fluid does absorb water and the system will rust from the inside out. Replace all lines, rubber and metal. Replace the calipers and wheel cylinders with name brand NEW parts. Same goes for the M/C. New not rebuilt. It is ok however to use a properly rebuilt booster. There are several company's selling complete kits including rotors, drums, bearings and seals. Overall the cost is not cheap but not crazy expensive either. Safety first, why chance it.
 
OK so unknown history with car. Car has been sitting for several years. Its my 1970 Sport Satellite which has power brakes with front discs.

I don’t have the engine running yet.

All four wheels spin free.

When I step on the brake its does not compress at all and feels hard as a rock. Feels like the pedal is fully compressed.

I don’t know much about the power booster but this does not seem normal?

Is there a way to test the brake master cylinder in the car? I might be able to supply a vacuum to the brake booster to test it?

Brake pedal will be hard with no vacuum to the power booster. If you can add vacuum the pedal should drop when pushed on if it doesn't then you need to look at master or booster. Fluid should be flushed if sitting that long for safety sake if the pedal works with vacuum added. Check for leaks after flushing. I would at least change disc pads and brake shoes and also the rubber brake hoses to be on the safe side.
 
I'm going to catch a lot of flack, but I really like to use a mitivac for flushing brake fluid. I do agree that old fashion two man brake bleeding works best, but to flush out large amounts of brake fluid I use a mitivac.

The mitivac brake flush fixed an intermittent brake warning light on my 2007 ranger.
 
I'm going to catch a lot of flack, but I really like to use a mitivac for flushing brake fluid. I do agree that old fashion two man brake bleeding works best, but to flush out large amounts of brake fluid I use a mitivac.

The mitivac brake flush fixed an intermittent brake warning light on my 2007 ranger.
I have blead brakes by drip method, mitivac and two man and all serve their purpose!

Thanks for all the inputs guys! I will take all your advice and come up with a plan while I work on getting the motor completed and running and while working all the electrical issues.
 
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