Dana 60 maintenance

Hey guys. I'm planning on yanking out my Dana over the holidays so I can clean/paint the leaf springs, do the brakes, paint the housing etc...I was planning on rebuilding the Dana, but after reading Shepard's book on Chrysler rear ends, I realize that I don't have many of the specialty tools required. I also don't know that it does need rebuilding anyways as I have never run the car. Are there some wear items that I could check/measure without pulling the sucker all apart? Thanks.

Ted

So are we talking about a car you bought and never ran on the road yet? With a dana of unknown condition?

What shape does the rear look as it sits? Any leaks etc?

Pictures?

moparnation74 said:

So are we talking about a car you bought and never ran on the road yet? With a dana of unknown condition?

What shape does the rear look as it sits? Any leaks etc?

Pictures?

Click to expand...

So I picked up a '70 GTX about 4 years ago. It is a Dana car but it has a Dana from a '69 Charger in it. It leaks at the pinion seal. The car was partially disassembled by the previous owner. Shift linkage, wiring etc was removed. If it would be able to move under its own power I'd take it for a spin. The housing is clean; the metal is nice and smooth. Car came out of Cali if that matters. Doesn't seem to be any play in the wheels when I jacked it up and yanked on what I could.

If you drain the lube that may give you a indicator, along with removing the rear cover. If you see surface rust anywhere, get it rebuilt.

Some guys here could surely walk you through a rebuild, or you can take it to a shop for a once over. Either way if it were me and I didn’t know I’d have it gone through.

Ive never seen a 40 year old dana that didn't need work. If you have it out take to a good shop and have it rebuilt. Doing yourself can be done, but if your not familiar with setting pinion depth, shimming the carrier and replacing the friction materials then get it done my a professional! Also the bearing on pinion, center section and seal at end of tubes and bearings should be addressed.

Baller said:

So I picked up a '70 GTX about 4 years ago. It is a Dana car but it has a Dana from a '69 Charger in it. It leaks at the pinion seal. The car was partially disassembled by the previous owner. Shift linkage, wiring etc was removed. If it would be able to move under its own power I'd take it for a spin. The housing is clean; the metal is nice and smooth. Car came out of Cali if that matters. Doesn't seem to be any play in the wheels when I jacked it up and yanked on what I could.

Click to expand...

Thanks...now I know what you have...

Two options

1. Complete rebuild(best choice for unknowns)

2. Replace all seals and gaskets, change fluid, repack axle bearings(it is a bandaid)

Gentlemen,
One of the most important tools that is required for disassembly (removing the ring gear to replace carrier bearings) is the case jack/spreader that actually spreads the case a maximum of 0.060" to permit the carrier to be removed. The case jack or spreader also is invaluable in re-assembling to accurately set the carrier bearing shims and preload. A arbor us used to set the pinion depth.
In my opinion, use only TIMKEN bearings (both the cups and cones) for both pinion bearings as well as carrier bearings. I also prefer either CR (Chicago Rawhide) or National oil seal brand with a neoprene or EPDM elastomers.
If the shop you select to do the rebuild, DOES NOT have the case jack or spreader, find another rebuilder. Some guys will probably say you do not need a case jack or spreader.....just pry out the carrier out for removal and just hammer the carrier back in on reassembly.
Of course, others will have their own preferences and methodology......
Bob Renton

If all you're doing is replacing the seals, bearings and frictions re-using crown and pinion) you don't need to reset anything except possibly the pinion brg preload. Use a reasonable quality brg and reassemble. Assemble the pinion without the seal and check drag and adjust accordingly.

If it were me I would jack up the rear wheels and with trans in gear or park, check the drag in the posi. If that's okay pull the cover and inspect crown wear and backlash. If nothing unusual and backlash is within, or very close to spec (indicating minimal wear), replace the bearings and seal. Reinstall shims in their original locations with new bearings. Only special tools req'd is a press and a bearing splitter. Certainly a case spreader is a nice to have, but even the old factory service manuals describe assembly without one. I've never used one. Certainly faster, especially if you have to assemble a couple of times during setup, but by no means a must have.