• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

So where are all the “Cheap” B-Bodies (Hagerty)

A&F

A&F

Member
Local time
6:11 AM
Joined
May 6, 2013
Messages
13
Reaction score
10
Location
MidWest
So I’ve been looking for a month to pick up a sub $25k car. 68-69 383/440, Sattelite, GTX, Roadrunner or even Coronet.

I see lots of rotted carcasuses with missing power trains from $3k to $15k and restored jobs for $35-70k

According to Hagerty, supposedly “Good” Roadrunners should be $29k and Satellites $19k, “fair” Cars should be $20k and $11k respectively.

A16A7963-F48A-4840-A802-C8443563AC87.png
F706B5F9-9B08-47C5-86EC-1168E2998076.png


I am totally not seeing it. What I am seeing is good cars for excellent pricing and fair cars for good pricing.

I’m using craigslist (nation wide), eBay, Classic Auto-trader, classic cars, this forum...

Am I doning something wrong? I’d assume winter is the preferred time of year...
 
Have you tried buying one of the cars listed on Ebay, CL etc? Are the lower priced cars selling for top dollar on Ebay? CL usually has all the dreamers listing their cars for high prices but showing up with dollars will usually make them come around.....
 
Hagerty values are basically estimates so they can base insured coverage.....They are not the "blue book" for muscle cars....Nor the authority on determining "actual" values

Average paint job these days at a "reputable" shop will run you what you looking to spend....15-30k
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
Those are estimates,your results may very:wtf:
Click to expand...

My point exactly. They are estimates that seem to be at least $10k off. They are also billed as "average", which mean some should be more, but also some should be less. Their values on other cars do not seem as skewed.


moparnation74 said:
Hagerty values are basically estimates so they can base insured coverage.....They are not the "blue book" for muscle cars....Nor the authority on determining "actual" values

Average paint job these days at a "reputable" shop will run you what you looking to spend....15-30k
Click to expand...

Then what should I use to determine what a good price to pay is? What does this forum suggest is a good price from a B-body these days?

I'm well aware of what paint and rotisserie restorations can cost. The end results are basically those #1 condition cars and pricing does reflect that. You can find many pristine A12 and 383 cars in the $40-60k range. Its those lower condition cars that seem to be a mess.
 
You have to look at '67 and earlier cars if you want a deal. 68 + cars are to pricey for me.
 
727 said:
You have to look at '67 and earlier cars if you want a deal. 68 + cars are to pricey for me.
Click to expand...

That's because the early cars look like the roof was a complete after thought.
 
Patience grasshopper...

You just need to keep a close eye on the for sale ads all over. The longer you look the more you will "know" the market.
 
As mentioned above, patience will be your best asset. I personally do not believe that good purchases are readily available through the internet any longer. Most of what you find is overpriced examples that are inflated by those not knowing better. You have to do a lots of searching to weed out the bad.
Attend the local shows and cruise ins to see what is available. Talk to the owners of cars that you are interested in. You will find like in any group, Mopar owners typically have more than one Mopar in the garage. In developing relationships with these people, you can develop life long friendships that can steer you into a vast network of other Mopar owners. From these relationships, you will get the inside knowledge of what is available.
If money is not a huge issue, visit some of the larger national shows or auction sites where the car count is relatively large as compared to the local show. There are good purchases out there to be seized. I would strongly suggest looking to purchase on the higher end of the pricing spectrum vs. purchasing on the lower end hoping to increase the value of your purchase. Items like air cleaners, dash pads and consoles without cracks, correct valve covers are items that will eat up all of your savings if they have to be replaced.
If in doubt, get a unbiased person to check the car out. I have seen too many cases of buddies buying cars because their buddies told them that it was something they should buy. It is your purchase and you must first and foremost like it, otherwise, you will be miserable.
 
On ebay look at ads for cars you like. In the left column look at completed listings. Sold are in green and junks or dreamers are in red, not sold.
 
A&F said:
My point exactly. They are estimates that seem to be at least $10k off. They are also billed as "average", which mean some should be more, but also some should be less. Their values on other cars do not seem as skewed.




Then what should I use to determine what a good price to pay is? What does this forum suggest is a good price from a B-body these days?

I'm well aware of what paint and rotisserie restorations can cost. The end results are basically those #1 condition cars and pricing does reflect that. You can find many pristine A12 and 383 cars in the $40-60k range. Its those lower condition cars that seem to be a mess.
Click to expand...
A12 cars? lol....

Hagerty is the worst choice not only for what were are talking about but also coverage but thats a separate issue....

I base my findings by comparing what is sold on eBay, here, cars on line and the auctions....I have seen many good deals at the auctions of finished lower end models and drivetrains....Based on the type of car you want to buy you simply have to do the leg work as your trying here and explore all options to see what range you will be purchasing at.....As Richard stated above in todays market paying up is better than paying down....mainly focusing on the associated costs of getting parts, things done etc...adds up fast and may place you into what you could have simply paid up for without the headaches....

To determine the a good price you simply have to provide a car and information for us to look at. Then we can scale down what is a good purchase price....Talking on a whim changes when the real thing is presented....People do that here all the time and I get PM's to look over cars from members here for my opinion....
 
Are we talking investments or building the vst of our dreams.I don't like flippers but they will do what they do.
 
Everything in life is pretty much negotiable.
When I plucked this money pit, errr GTX, it was on eBay and I just happened upon it right after the seller had listed it.
Pounced on it before bidding even got going good, since it was fairly "local" (3 hours) and I insist on laying hands on anything before even making an offer/bid.
What the seller had visions of getting and what he actually got were two different things.
As the saying goes - "CASH TALKS". Deal was done and car got transported here to the ridge within a couple days.
Gotta be somewhat aggressive in this horse tradin' thing to an extent.

In regards to Hagerty, I've dealt with them for a long time now and have always found them to be a quality company.
One thing I like about their coverage is that it is an "agreed value" thing - and you can contact them to increase that amount anytime, which I've done a couple times as the car got closer to finished (and its' supposed value increased).

In the end, you'll wind up being rewarded for being patient - but POUNCE when you see "the car". Do not hesitate to bargain with the seller, especially if you can wave greenbacks under their nose.
If I told you what I paid for this car when I bought it, you'd probably freak - but what you wind up paying for the car is inversely proportional to what work you're willing & capable of doing to it once you've bought it.
Sure was the case for me.
 
moparedtn said:
Everything in life is pretty much negotiable.
When I plucked this money pit, errr GTX, it was on eBay and I just happened upon it right after the seller had listed it.
Pounced on it before bidding even got going good, since it was fairly "local" (3 hours) and I insist on laying hands on anything before even making an offer/bid.
What the seller had visions of getting and what he actually got were two different things.
As the saying goes - "CASH TALKS". Deal was done and car got transported here to the ridge within a couple days.
Gotta be somewhat aggressive in this horse tradin' thing to an extent.

In regards to Hagerty, I've dealt with them for a long time now and have always found them to be a quality company.
One thing I like about their coverage is that it is an "agreed value" thing - and you can contact them to increase that amount anytime, which I've done a couple times as the car got closer to finished (and its' supposed value increased).

In the end, you'll wind up being rewarded for being patient - but POUNCE when you see "the car". Do not hesitate to bargain with the seller, especially if you can wave greenbacks under their nose.
If I told you what I paid for this car when I bought it, you'd probably freak - but what you wind up paying for the car is inversely proportional to what work you're willing & capable of doing to it once you've bought it.
Sure was the case for me.
Click to expand...
Hagerty...sucks...lol...Had them for years and paid dearly for their ridiculous advertising...

Classic collectors offers exactly them same with lower premium costs...a fair amount lower....
http://www.classiccollectors.com/

I too have an actual "Agreed Value" and I too have upped the insurance throughout my build....

Simply there are alternatives that offer the exact same as Hagerty at a much better price point....

Cash on hand is always king.....
 
The best deals are had by driving around and looking for parked cars and stopping by shops and asking about old Mopars. I came across a hoard of cars by responding to an ad for a 440 on craigslist in another state. I asked if he had any cars for sale and he said his father had a bunch he might sell. Turned into me getting a project 69 Charger 500, 69 Coronet R/T Hemi, and my buddy picked up a 70 Superbird V-Code 4 Speed matching # car, and a 73 Challenger with a 511 Hemi shaker, and turnkey. He still has more cars I am trying to save for... 69 Daytona 4-speed 440 car..
 
DCCoronet said:
The best deals are had by driving around and looking for parked cars and stopping by shops and asking about old Mopars. I came across a hoard of cars by responding to an ad for a 440 on craigslist in another state. I asked if he had any cars for sale and he said his father had a bunch he might sell. Turned into me getting a project 69 Charger 500, 69 Coronet R/T Hemi, and my buddy picked up a 70 Superbird V-Code 4 Speed matching # car, and a 73 Challenger with a 511 Hemi shaker, and turnkey. He still has more cars I am trying to save for... 69 Daytona 4-speed 440 car..
Click to expand...

Sounds like you found a "Honey hole" so to speak.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

1
Current Prices on '66 Satellites
Replies
16
Views
2K
patrick66
patrick66
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top