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B Body Welding Manual

Z

Zell

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Hi guys, does anyone know of a Welding Manual that shows the weld spots and alignment distances for different panels for a 69 B Body?

Also, how many of you are just 'eye-ing' it with panel alignment? It's not my preferred method, but it will work if it has to.
 
Last edited:
I have never heard of one, and have only seen the under body alignment measurements. I don't think the factory knew them either...My Coronet rh outer wheel well, and brace up to the roof were 3/8" too high and the wheel well lip wasn't even spot welded to the outer wheel house all the way through the arch. At the top of the inner roof support, someone just hammered the excess over so the roof skin would fit and had half as many spot welds as the left side.
 
second that never heard or seen one ,call Mark no it at GY Cars
 
the outer sheet metal dictates everything......... start with the doors being parallel with the rockers and go from there.... I've pieced together at least 10 of these, and very ADD about panel alignment
 
Thanks, guys. Appreciate the info. That's crazy that the brace on the coronet was off 3/8". Assuming that kind of stuff isn't surprising?

Eldubb440 any other tricks you have for outer panel alignment? How about floor pans or the panels inside the engine bay?
 
Zell said:
Thanks, guys. Appreciate the info. That's crazy that the brace on the coronet was off 3/8". Assuming that kind of stuff isn't surprising?

Eldubb440 any other tricks you have for outer panel alignment? How about floor pans or the panels inside the engine bay?
Click to expand...

mock up as much a possible, it all works together....... the hood will dictate the width of the fenders, which will affect the doors, which will affect the quarters, ect

use a few zip screws to hold things together, don't weld until you are sure.......

it really only fits one way, things become obvious once you get into it........

here's a good one, since I put major emphasis on the doors being a starting point: if you skin a door, DO NOT USE PANEL BOND, AND DO NOT TACK ANYTHING until the door is hanging on the car. This will allow you to "twist" or "flex" the door into proper shape, then a couple tacks will hold it rigid, temporary; few tacks around the perimeter for permanent
 
I'm on board with the door theory. I have NOT touched the bolts for my door hinges as the doors fit great. It will be the last possible thing I remove after I fit the rest of the panels around them.
 
eldubb440 thanks, so I gather that I should start from the front and work my way back?

I am keeping my eyes out for a 69 charger and was hoping to bring one back from the dead (I like doing metal and drivetrain work more than anything, it's okay, my buddies call me crazy for it too).

Some of the ones I've been looking at need heavy metal work where I would be replacing everything from tail light panels to flooring, wheel wells, some spots on the frames here and there, and a lot in between. So I appreciate these little tips to help fit the puzzle together.
 
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