Interesting - I think those screens are missing on my Edelbrock - but it had been gone through at least once before I picked it up. The rebuild kits don't include those screens either.
Edelbrock Carbs Suck!
- Thread starter Bruzilla
- Start date
I always pull them out. I also always run a good filter. I did a friends carb last year. We were at the track. It's a 10.50 car. Was stumbling off pace by .40. Screens were full of what looked like lint.
Doug
Doug
Garys1969RR
Well-Known Member
Hey Bruzilla, did you get it fixed yet? Those carbs are fairly easy to work on, just keep tryin!
Yeah - I rebuilt a Carter AFB many decades ago when I was a 19 year old idiot and it worked great. Easy carb to work on. Just get a kit and tear the SOB apart! I always found that carefully setting all the various adjustments per the rebuild specs was even more important than the new parts in restoring performance.
62 Dart Convertible
Well-Known Member
I agree. Particularly choke settings/adjustments.
I see in another post you repaired your carb problem. Now that Edelbrock's might not suck, what did you find?
Doug
Doug
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I run an Eddy on my A100 (toast rack gone now in favour of an unsilenced Dodge air cleaner. Seems to work fine for me.
Tim Chavez
Well-Known Member
hey guys, i know this is an old thread but i am also having issues with my edelbrock on my 340 in my 71 charger. it doesn't want to fire cold and wants to crank for 3-5 minutes before it starts even trying to kick over. i use a clear filter pre-pump ( 3 month old new stock mechanical pump) and i can see the gas in the filter and it looks good. gas strait to the carb or starting fluid will get it to kick over but it will die immediately unless you start playing with the throttle to keep it running. it will stay running after a minute or so playing with the throttle. it will not run under 2000 rpms until its hot and when it is hot its still around 1400. if i go to adjust the mixture screws it usually dies while doing it. this is also the first carb i've ever built so im not afraid to chalk it up to a bad rebuild. if it is a bad rebuild, does that mean i need to buy a new rebuild kit? and also what do you guys think i got wrong on the rebuild? thank you for your help.
rumblefish360
Well-Known Member
Your settings are off. Choked hooked up and set right?
The high idle and feathering the throttle when cold tells me the high fast idle setting and regular idle setting screws are turned to far in. This leaves the throttle blades to far open. Like your stepping on the gas pedal.
The high idle and feathering the throttle when cold tells me the high fast idle setting and regular idle setting screws are turned to far in. This leaves the throttle blades to far open. Like your stepping on the gas pedal.
Tim Chavez
Well-Known Member
Choke is manual, I’ve got it hooked to a cable on the dash in one of the old radio knobs and made a little plug with some old brass to mount it cleanly. Thank you for the tips!. We’re looking at another - 16 or worse weekend so I wont be able to test it out for a bit
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
I think the answer CAN BE CONCLUDED OUT OF THIS POST !
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
I meant you, sounds like u need to take it to someone else. Its evident that u just don`t know what ur doing. No cuts intended !
Garys1969RR
Well-Known Member
The seat is where the needle valve goes into, to shut off fuel supply when the fuel level gets high enough. The main jets meter fuel flow to the venturi.
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