Miccara
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They look awesome, way better than the picture. I've never had aluminum heads and a little leery of stripping threads... what should I be torquing these too?
Yeah Baby. They're here! Torque?
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Zeppelin264
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I tighten the bolts with a shortish wrench until I cant tighten them anymore. Never had a problem. All about the Perceys manifold gaskets.
Put a little dab of anti-seize compound on the bolt threads to keep from galling the threads and they will be easier to torque.
Bb70charger500
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1/2" impact will do you fine!
But seriously as stated get a shorty exh wrench tighten till you can't go no more start it if you hear a leak go a bit more !
But seriously as stated get a shorty exh wrench tighten till you can't go no more start it if you hear a leak go a bit more !
I agree. this is not a place where a chart torque for a bolt applies. Those charts don't know what you are doing with the bolting.---One torque does not fit all.
BTW just getting a wrench on an exhaust mounting bolt is tough. Using a torque wrench properly on that bolt could turn you into a pretzel of frustration with the same outcome.
One thing I learned as a kid is that proper torque is needed in very few places.
When one turns a few bolts with a torque wrench we learn what tight means.
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mopar 3 B
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There have always been a few spots where studs just do not work. Other wise studs especially in aluminum.
Great example. Your Grade/stage 8 fasteners can (and will) handle high torque based on charts for them. However, they are threaded into--?? is that aluminium? If so what is the grade of aluminum and thread depth?
I live in an industrial world where this stuff matters. When clamping force is needed to be proper and bolt size is big--bolt stretch is used. This method tosses all of the issues with clean threads and lubrication that make a huge mess of proper torquing a topic for working on cars.
Sorry--I can go on but only if prompted.
I would like to add that I learned how much "torque" it takes to remove a 1/2" left-hand thread wheel lug nut. I broke two off when my friend told me that some threads unscrew the other way.--
(I was 14 and learning)
Studs are just bolts that have no heads.----I can't think of a better way to get to the nuts of this.
moparcrazy
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Tighten till it’s loose again
cryplydog
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Studs are the way to go I believe. use 12pt. nuts and shorten/grind any studs that are to long and hit the header as they only need to be long enough to get a washer and the nut on. on heads with the holes go thru to the water jacket use some Rector Seal or a non hardening compound similar. Oh heads with blind holes just use some anti seize compound. Depending on larger dia. of the headers I spose you could get into a situation where you may have to do what ever is needed to get the job done. Stage 8 bolts work good also but I still prefer a stud. You can special order different length studs from ARP but I mostly always chuck em' up in my smaller lathe and shorten the whole batch to the desired length and run a die over them.
Bill Monk
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Percys gaskets are great. I've used them on a couple of cars and never had a leak
71Beeper
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Another vote here for studs.
moparcrazy
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The only problem with studs is if you have limited space and need to take them off, i think it mite be a Bitch ?? don't know I've never tried studs, only bolts, & yes they come loose but it seems after running the car for awhile everything settles and they don't come loose anymore.
HEMI-ITIS
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Studs will not work in all applications!! Just use 2 studs per side that you know won't bite you,then you can hang the header and install the bolts.
Use the German torque method,,,,,,,,goodntite
Use the German torque method,,,,,,,,goodntite
Miccara
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Studs will not work in all applications!! Just use 2 studs per side that you know won't bite you,then you can hang the header and install the bolts.
Use the German torque method,,,,,,,,goodntite
Okay... I'll bite. German torque method?
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