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Tips to "recreate" the spotweld look?

Deanfitz27

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Does any body have any good tips how to recreate the spotweld look in the trunk pan area, door jam and rear wheel lip? I've heard people dab a pencil eraser when the primer is soft. As well if any body has a reference pic of the spacing and the look of these weld area, it would be greatly appreciated. My car is to the point that i am ready to spray primer filler, i will be using ppg vp2100.

Thanks

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Making a fake spot weld sounds like something to be practiced on scrap metal with a tig or oxy/ace torch before paint.
IMO trying this in the paint stage sounds rather messy and hard to back out of. In the end, just who would be the fooled?

A thought just came to mind.---I was impressed years ago with stickers. Maybe you could get a printing company to make you a roll of spot weld stickers.
BTW I am not trying to be funny. I have been very impressed with what can be done. (and it's reversible)
 
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So these panels are already welded in, I'm guessing? Why weren't the panels spot welded in the first place?
You'd have to lay the primer on pretty thick to recreate the look of spot welds using a pencil eraser.
 
Making a fake spot weld sounds like something to be practiced on scrap metal with a tig or oxy/ace torch before paint.
IMO trying this in the paint stage sounds rather messy and hard to back out of. In the end, just who would be the fooled?
I know what you are saying, its not about fooling anyone, its just so it looks more correct rather than completely smooth. I've done a lot of salvage and collision work, you can use a die grinder and other tricks to achieve the look, i was just wondering if anybody had a good method. Thanks
 
So these panels are already welded in, I'm guessing? Why weren't the panels spot welded in the first place?
You'd have to lay the primer on pretty thick to recreate the look of spot welds using a pencil eraser.
Yes the panels were spot welded on but with a mig welder and then ground clean as the mig doesn't give the correct look. I wish i had a spot weld machine
 
I know what you are saying, its not about fooling anyone, its just so it looks more correct rather than completely smooth. I've done a lot of salvage and collision work, you can use a die grinder and other tricks to achieve the look, i was just wondering if anybody had a good method. Thanks

I appreciate your intent on your question. What this topic brings to mind are all the hours I have spent filling and blending existing spot welds to make them go away.
 
Yes the panels were spot welded on but with a mig welder and then ground clean as the mig doesn't give the correct look. I wish i had a spot weld machine
Punching your holes in the top panel then getting your overlap correct and filling the hole with the mig is the optimal way.
Too little too late I suppose.
Can't really recommend a good looking way to help you, unfortunately.
 
Ditzler sold a primer in a tube a little thicker than toothpaste. Tube was the same as a toothpaste tube but twice the size.
 
I bet Bob Ross could make a spot weld with one twisting stroke of his brush.
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i use the pencil eraser in the basecoat........ nice wet pass where needed, and stick it in.......
spotwelds.jpg
 
the reality is that a lot of the spot welds, especially in the middle of a panel like the trunk pan, are actual dents and dimples....... but these look better than nothing at all......... in other areas, they are spot on


when possible, I do my plug welds from the backside; leaving a pretty nice "spot" weld on the visible side
 
I just recently experimented duplicating spot welds and the best so far has been to take the ball end of a hammer and with a wood backer, set the ball end over a 5/16"drilled hole where your plug welding ,before welding of course, and hit your ball hammer with another to create the dimpled depression into the panel surrounding the plug. This creates the indention in the surrounding metal of the two joined panels like you would get when spot welding metal under the pressure of the tongs. After plug welding, and grinding, use a die-grinder with a flat top carbide barrel cutter and with a steady hand burrow into the center of the plug weld just enough to create the effect. Putting a little angle in them makes them look even more reaalistic, then finish with a 1" wire wheel to clean up the edges and swirl marks. There may be a better way but so far they look great after you get the hang of it...just practice on scrap first as the die grinder will get away from you quickly...gouging the surrounding metal.
 
I just recently experimented duplicating spot welds and the best so far has been to take the ball end of a hammer and with a wood backer, set the ball end over a 5/16"drilled hole where your plug welding ,before welding of course, and hit your ball hammer with another to create the dimpled depression into the panel surrounding the plug. This creates the indention in the surrounding metal of the two joined panels like you would get when spot welding metal under the pressure of the tongs. After plug welding, and grinding, use a die-grinder with a flat top carbide barrel cutter and with a steady hand burrow into the center of the plug weld just enough to create the effect. Putting a little angle in them makes them look even more reaalistic, then finish with a 1" wire wheel to clean up the edges and swirl marks. There may be a better way but so far they look great after you get the hang of it...just practice on scrap first as the die grinder will get away from you quickly...gouging the surrounding metal.

I like it, just not willing to put that much effort into it......
 
Punching your holes in the top panel then getting your overlap correct and filling the hole with the mig is the optimal way.
Too little too late I suppose.
Can't really recommend a good looking way to help you, unfortunately.
I think you are miss understanding, as you described above is exactly how the panels were installed, but when you fill a punched hole with a mig it doesn't look like a correct spot weld, so it ends up being ground down. I do appreciate your input. There are some great ideas posted here, i think i will try either what Khryslerkid, Eldubb440 or DCcoronet suggested, i think one of these methods will give a closer look as opossed to the completely smooth look. Thanks
 
May sound barbaric, had to do this a while back. 1/4 inch punch/drift, no point, and a hammer. You should practice a bit on scrap. Had the same problem with a pair of inner fenders, welded and dressed mint, wanted to recreate pinch weld dimples. grabbed a hammer, punch and a dolly, presto dimples
 
May sound barbaric, had to do this a while back. 1/4 inch punch/drift, no point, and a hammer. You should practice a bit on scrap. Had the same problem with a pair of inner fenders, welded and dressed mint, wanted to recreate pinch weld dimples. grabbed a hammer, punch and a dolly, presto dimples
Thanks, another great idea
 
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