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How can I make my car HOOK????

It is a 69 Satellite/RR with 440 that is 500 plus hp, 727, 8.75 with 323 gears...
It has 7 leaf springs out back, and stock torsion bars up front with KYB shocks all around, new everything on the car...
Automatic car with Promatic 2 shifter that gives the option of 1-2-3 or regular auto,,,
My pops says I need a pinion snubber, frame connectors, and some kind of tracs and something else for reinforcement...
But I don't know a ton about hardcore hp muscle cars. I have had a lot of 318 a bodys and such mostly...
What do I need if I just don't wanna peel rubber like crazy, and actually wanna hook at least pretty well???

View attachment 558944 View attachment 558945
just wondering are you wanting to street race your car?? or are you just street driving? obviously wider tires with a softer compound (street tires wont cut it ) Air Pressure is HUGE ! and you want a looser suspension, meaning weight transfer, Calvert adjustable shocks are Great for up front, remember theirs a lot that go's into tuning your suspension (time and $$) as they say at the street races.
"spin'n aint win'n"
 
With a 3.23 gear. I'd try a MT ET Street in a P275.
ET-STREET-SS.png
 
Reading the title I say........dress it up in some sexy clothes and have it parked at the street corner!!
 
Yup, what's your main use for the car going to be. Street manners will get worse if you set it up for the track but that depends on how you like it to act. Sticky tires, loose front shocks (90/10's are not that street friendly) and maybe even low profile traction bars. I rather used those than a pinion snubber but the majority of Mopar 'purists' shun them. And with 500 HP, welded in frame connectors should be your first priority.....

Don't pay too much mind to Kern Dog...he comes from a different part of the pie :D
 
CalTracs...
I've never used them bit I've read some good things about rear shackle sliders/roller bearing mounts

Screenshot_20180112-111319.png
 
The down side to Cal-Tracs is they are not cheap. They were mainly designed for the guys who had to abide by class rules and couldn't use ladder bars etc and the CT's were considered a traction aid and were legal to use in the classes that dictated you had to run leaf springs if your car came stock with leafs. Haven't checked prices lately but a ladder bar set up used to be about the same price depending on how much you spent on coil over shocks. The up side is that the CT's are basically a bolt on.....
 
Less skinny pedal from the start line.... JK
I am watching close though. My Daughters is getting a big 440 put in, but I want it to have street behavior not straight line action.
 
Put a fat kidd in the back seat eating a sandwich...
That should help a lot!! lol but....I never have liked adding weight to help with traction or slow a car down for an index etc. Just too many other ways to make adjustments to slow a car down. Heck, to slow the hit down it could be done with electronics and a throttle positioner.....? How bout a timing retard that's set for a couple of seconds. Mat it and and the timing goes retard for a set period of time. With all the electronic stuff available these days, there's got to be a way to do this besides doing something mechanical. Look at all the cars in the Super classes that go flat right off the line then go like gang busters after a couple of seconds. I hate that crap in racing but something like this could be used on the street with a delay box and throttle stop and adjust it to react as soon as you mat the throttle. ???
 
Yup, what's your main use for the car going to be. Street manners will get worse if you set it up for the track but that depends on how you like it to act. Sticky tires, loose front shocks (90/10's are not that street friendly) and maybe even low profile traction bars. I rather used those than a pinion snubber but the majority of Mopar 'purists' shun them. And with 500 HP, welded in frame connectors should be your first priority.....

Don't pay too much mind to Kern Dog...he comes from a different part of the pie :D

Well, frame connectors first it is then... Can u recommend some?

I have a pinion snubber that's been repainted with rubber pad on it, but don't know much about that stuff...

I definitely want my ride to work well on the street like light highway and the occasional street race. I don't want to just spin out though...

I know the tires I have on are part of it just smoking up immediately, but I am wanting to reinforce what I can and then do some changes that won't mess up the overall drivability, that will help me hook a bit better at least...

I don't wanna twist my ride, or wrap my rear end, but I do want to hook better...
I do not want to sacrifice too much cruiseability though :)
 
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*I think* US Cartools (.com) has frame connectors for your car. There floor contoured and weld in.
These improve the cars ride.

The pinion snubbed should have a plate welded above it. The distance should be less than an inch from snubber top to the new welded plate.
This improves the cars traction effort.
 
Well, frame connectors first it is then... Can u recommend some?

I have a pinion snubber that's been repainted with rubber pad on it, but don't know much about that stuff...

I definitely want my ride to work well on the street like light highway and the occasional street race. I don't want to just spin out though...

I know the tires I have on are part of it just smoking up immediately, but I am wanting to reinforce what I can and then do some changes that won't mess up the overall drivability, that will help me hook a bit better at least...

I don't wanna twist my ride, or wrap my rear end, but I do want to hook better...
I do not want to sacrifice too much cruiseability though :)
like rumbelfish360 mentioned above US Car Tool makes a nice laser cut weld in type frame connectors made to fallow the contour of your cars floor pan and it's the same one i installed on my 65 Plymouth, remember to take the carpet out so you dont have a interior fire i took my car to the muffler shop and had them weld it in for me, also all for wheels MUST BE ON THE GROUND OR ON THE LIFT, ABSOLULY NO TWO POST LIFT"S, (and car doors must be shut closed) this will cause your car to flex, Also your going to notice a considerable difference after you weld them in, the car will feel stiffer trust me a major plus.
 
Well, let me put it this way. My 69 belvedere is mini tubbed, 4 linked, QA1 rear shocks, big box section frame connectors coming through the floor, xv engineering engine bay braces. took close to 300lbs out of the front end including battery relocate.

My 451 still has a tough time hooking on 30”x 12.5” ET Street radials.

2B7E28DC-8F32-43C4-990A-DB6BDB88C564.jpeg
925189A3-DDEF-4EAD-B1F2-C386883B3811.jpeg
 
Well, let me put it this way. My 69 belvedere is mini tubbed, 4 linked, QA1 rear shocks, big box section frame connectors coming through the floor, xv engineering engine bay braces. took close to 300lbs out of the front end including battery relocate.

My 451 still has a tough time hooking on 30”x 12.5” ET Street radials.

View attachment 559558 View attachment 559559
BADASS CAR HT413 !!
 
Well, let me put it this way. My 69 belvedere is mini tubbed, 4 linked, QA1 rear shocks, big box section frame connectors coming through the floor, xv engineering engine bay braces. took close to 300lbs out of the front end including battery relocate.

My 451 still has a tough time hooking on 30”x 12.5” ET Street radials.

View attachment 559558 View attachment 559559

That’s a bad looking bitch!
 
I see a bit of complaining about sticky tires wearing out. Fact of the matter is that yes, they will wear quickly. That statement is very true. If the car spins they will wear even quicker. I get about 2 summers on a set of QTP’s on either of my cars. I’m very ok with that. I would rather keep good tires on the car than have something that is just out of control and dangerous.
 
I see a bit of complaining about sticky tires wearing out. Fact of the matter is that yes, they will wear quickly. That statement is very true. If the car spins they will wear even quicker. I get about 2 summers on a set of QTP’s on either of my cars. I’m very ok with that. I would rather keep good tires on the car than have something that is just out of control and dangerous.

Agree. I have 1500 miles on my ET Streets and they look about half way home. That’s plenty of life for me. No true street tire can hook a decent B/RB, let alone a HEMI.
 
Here's a picture of my excellent Toyo Proxes TQ Drag radials after a year. I'm going to guess only 1500 miles on them.
20171018_144908.jpg

They're in great shape, no problem with wet streets so far (YRMV), much improved traction, and I am so satisfied with them I bought a pair for my wife's GTO.
Even with only one grabbing in the now thankfully busted stock open rear axle of her car I cut 1/2 second off the 1/4 mile time, but on the next run her spider gears exploded.
Check them out!
https://www.toyotires.com/tire/pattern/proxes-tq-dot-drag-radial-tires
 
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