• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Tubular k frame. QA1? Reilly Motor Sports? Magmun Force?

woody3037

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
2:16 AM
Joined
Mar 22, 2013
Messages
330
Reaction score
107
Location
walton ny
I have a 70 GTX that I want to drive a lot when it's done so I want better handling than stock. A tubular k frame with a power rack and pinion is a must as are disc brakes. Which front end upgrade is best of these 3 or maybe one I'm not aware of yet?
 
I don’t have any experience with any but bill Reilly obviously uses his own front end kits in his road race cars, you can see them in action on his YouTube channel.
 
I don’t believe QA1 has provisions for a power rack. I have one and it’s a nice piece but you would have to do some fab work to get a rack in there.
 
I don’t believe QA1 has provisions for a power rack. I have one and it’s a nice piece but you would have to do some fab work to get a rack in there.
I also have the QA1. I don't have any other brand to compare it to, and my car isn't done yet but it does in fact seem to be a quality piece. I recommend it.
 
I'm running the RMS Bill Reilly AlterKtion in my 65 Plymouth and Absolutely Love it !! Highly recommend Bill to Everyone Great Customer Service and impeccable product !
IMG_5477.JPG
IMG_5479.JPG

 
A tubular k frame with a power rack and pinion is a must as are disc brakes.

Okay, I'm with you on the disc brakes but why is a tubular K member any better? Are you under the impression that newer is always better? This is not always the case. How about the influx of cheap Chinese tools and reproduction car parts over the last 20 years ?
I won't try to force you into accepting my opinion but let me make a case as to why I think that a well prepared stock based suspension and steering system is a better way to go.
First, I will easily admit that the stock stuff is not on par with the handling quality that most new cars have. 40 years of advancements have to be worth something, right? The stock torsion bar suspension can be improved though. By making a few small changes and improvements, you can have a great handling car that retains OEM durability for about half the price of those $5000 tubular setups.
The addition of subframe connectors is a great upgrade. Taking it further, one should add gussets to the K member to stiffen up the steering box mounting area. I did both of these and also welded plates to the lower control arms. I used large anti sway bars, Poly bushings, Bilstein shocks and a Firm Feel stage 3 steering box with Fast Ratio arms. I figure I have less than $2300 in my front and rear suspension. My brakes are 12" discs up front from a Cordoba....Calipers and pads can be found at almost any NAPA store.
Mopar Action magazine had several articles on their 1969 Valiant dubbed "The Green Brick", a street car that they raced on road courses across the country. It had a stock based setup as I do and it blew away Corvettes, Porches and several cars that nobody every expected to lose...
Andy Finkbeiner built a 68 Valiant that was nicknamed "The Red Brick"....It too retained a stock based setup. Andy runs AR Engineering and supplies many parts to Mancini Racing for retail sale. Andy has written several tech articles for Mopar Muscle magazine as well as a few helpful tech books. He has stated that for most purposes, there is no advantage to running a aftermarket tubular K member suspension.
Then there is the issue of engineering: The setups that remove the torsion bars and use a coil over shock mounted in place of the shock are asking for failure. The stock Mopar arrangement was well thought out. Each section was built to carry a specific, limited load. The shock absorber mounts were designed to dampen suspension movement, not to support the weight of the car. Some companies do address this by implementing a reinforcing bar that runs from the firewall to the frame rail. This helps but isn't a nice looking addition to the engine bay.
These cars were designed around rather skinny 5 inch wide 14 inch diameter bias ply tires with limited grip. Today we have wider and taller radials that grip better than race tires of the 60s. The better grip of todays tires will induce flex and distortion in a stock unibody when the road gets curvy. The addition of frame connectors and reinforcements/gussets address this. Stiffen the platform and the suspension does not have to be as stiff for the car to handle better. When the whole car is flexible, the car is just another spring to bend and move.
Some choose the aftermarket setups to get better road feel. This is a great point. The stock steering boxes can be rebuilt and upgraded but to be fair, they are based on a design that dates back to 1957! My Firm Feel steering setup feels great in turns but still has some free play from the center outward....In other words, while driving straight ahead, the free play from center is more than a car or truck with a steering rack. Good news though...BORGESON has a fix for that. They offer a steering box setup that has a 14 to 1 ratio and has none of the slop or free play of the Mopar gear.
The aftermarket does make some shiny new stuff that looks nice. It is new and pretty but I wonder if they would hold up to the same stresses that the stock stuff can.
Good luck in any manner that you decide. It is best to be informed though before spending the money.
 
I have a 70 GTX that I want to drive a lot when it's done so I want better handling than stock. A tubular k frame with a power rack and pinion is a must as are disc brakes. Which front end upgrade is best of these 3 or maybe one I'm not aware of yet?
Another Major plus is weight savings, this kit weighs 150LBS less than my stock K~member Set up, and OMG talk about Clearance, No steering Box, No Torsion Bars and Zero Header Clearance issues, removing the starter a breeze, this was definitely One the Best up Grades I've done to my car, going on three years with No Regrets, I street race, Drag Race & Freeway cruse this car @ 90 with my Gear Vendor and Dig It, also one night street racing I took out my oil pan when the car came down, the pan easily dropped out, only removing two bolts from the rack & pinon!!
:thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
I don’t believe QA1 has provisions for a power rack. I have one and it’s a nice piece but you would have to do some fab work to get a rack in there.
I have the QA1 control arms and strut rods and been think of pulling the trigger on the k member ...are there any drawbacks? I want the additional pan and header clearance mainly...
 
Another Major plus is weight savings, this kit weighs 150LBS less than my stock K~member Set up, and OMG talk about Clearance, No steering Box, No Torsion Bars and Zero Header Clearance issues, removing the starter a breeze, this was definitely One the Best up Grades I've done to my car, going on three years with No Regrets, I street race, Drag Race & Freeway cruse this car @ 90 with my Gear Vendor and Dig It, also one night street racing I took out my oil pan when the car came down, the pan easily dropped out, only removing two bolts from the rack & pinon!!
:thumbsup:
The most dramatic weight difference is if you go from stock power steering to a manual steering rack. Even then your number is not accurate. Starter clearance? How often do you need to change the starter? Many big block headers block access to the starter anyway. I've never had trouble getting access to the oil pan in any of my cars. If you are happy with it, that is great. I don't see the points you made as being worth the expense. TTI and Dougs make headers that fit stock chassis cars but everyone knows that, right?
 
The most dramatic weight difference is if you go from stock power steering to a manual steering rack. Even then your number is not accurate. Starter clearance? How often do you need to change the starter? Many big block headers block access to the starter anyway. I've never had trouble getting access to the oil pan in any of my cars. If you are happy with it, that is great. I don't see the points you made as being worth the expense. TTI and Dougs make headers that fit stock chassis cars but everyone knows that, right?
Kern Dog yup 150 lbs is a major weight deference, but those are the facts Do your Homework call and talk to Bill like I did if you don't believe me, its written in plane English on there website, but being worth the expense is up too the consumer, just like my Gear Vendor was it worth $3500.00 for an extra Gear?? I think so, Stroker kit??, mini Tub?, Custom axle?, Headers?? its Not for everyone I get it, But woody3037 posted the Question witch one of these K members are the best Q~a1, RMS or Magnum Force ?? I Happen to have the RMS and absolutely love it & I would buy another one in a heart Beat !!!
 
Facts? Website? Come on...You have never seen a company fudge the numbers to make their product look better to you? Follow the money. They are selling a product. The stock K member is not heavy. The iron case power steering box is. The only way to get that kind of weight savings is to have an indirect comparison.
Gear Vendors? I had one. I liked the reduction in rpms but the unit I had was not optimal. MIne would stick in OD as I came to a stop. The bracketry to mount my floor shifter linkage was not good, causing the car to slip out of PARK sometimes. Mine was a rebuilt early unit that did not have the later improvements.
Again, many people are happy with these products. I also repeat that a person should be informed on their purchases. These setups cost twice the money of a decent, upgraded OEM based setup. If you are one of those guys that feels good by spending lots of money while thinking that spending more means you get more, that is fine. I don't trust people that easily.
 
I have the QA1 control arms and strut rods and been think of pulling the trigger on the k member ...are there any drawbacks? I want the additional pan and header clearance mainly...

I have Hedman 3" long tube headers and I can't say that I notice a whole lot more clearance with the new K frame vs. the old one. I bought the QA1 piece because my original K frame was pretty mangled, and for the price it was only a little bit more to get a brand new one (free shipping) vs. buying a used one with unknown history plus the cost of shipping.

I'm a happy customer. Zero downsides so far.
 
Facts? Website? Come on...You have never seen a company fudge the numbers to make their product look better to you? Follow the money. They are selling a product. The stock K member is not heavy. The iron case power steering box is. The only way to get that kind of weight savings is to have an indirect comparison.
Gear Vendors? I had one. I liked the reduction in rpms but the unit I had was not optimal. MIne would stick in OD as I came to a stop. The bracketry to mount my floor shifter linkage was not good, causing the car to slip out of PARK sometimes. Mine was a rebuilt early unit that did not have the later improvements.
Again, many people are happy with these products. I also repeat that a person should be informed on their purchases. These setups cost twice the money of a decent, upgraded OEM based setup. If you are one of those guys that feels good by spending lots of money while thinking that spending more means you get more, that is fine. I don't trust people that easily.
I here what your saying about getting what your paying for, I did my homework then pulled the trigger, me personally I love the product "RMS" and have Zero regrets, I think if your in the market for a Superior K member then AlterKation is the Only way to Go, IMO. I get it, Its' NOT FOR EVERYONE. Sorry to hear about your G.V but I've put 700 HP to mine with out any issue's and planning of putting 850 HP to it this Summer.
my car looks very basic, just has Kool parts thrown at it, plus I enjoy beating on it Lol.
IMG_0230.JPG
 
Last edited:
I have a 70 GTX that I want to drive a lot when it's done so I want better handling than stock. A tubular k frame with a power rack and pinion is a must as are disc brakes. Which front end upgrade is best of these 3 or maybe one I'm not aware of yet?

Gerst is almost identical to RMS except he use's some 1/4" plate and some 3/16 instead of all 3/16, finish is beautiful and a few bucks cheaper, all the same options. Performance wise I cant say yet its still sitting in the garage floor.
 
I have the RMS under my Challenger. No complaints at all. All of the benefits have been mentioned. Weight savings, clearance every where, coil over adjustability, quicker steering etc.

20150919_174643.jpg 20150919_180743.jpg 20150920_190417.jpg 20150920_190437.jpg 20150922_184259 (002).jpg 20150922_184314 (002).jpg
 
Does anyone have actual numbers they can report from their experience, did you weigh components that came off then weigh the RMS kit?

I know when I installed the street lynx 4 link I talked to bill and he told me the weight is about the same as the leaf spring set up.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. Gives me something to chew on for a while as I'm probably at least a year away. I retire in 9 months and 5 days. Not like I'm counting. LOL
 
Not in the market but thought Kern Dog's reasoning was well thought out and presented. Just as compelling is moparcrazy's reasons for installing his aftermarket RMS unit. This is the kind of information that is invaluable on this site.
Thanks guys.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top