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The Illusive Edelbrock Bog

72ChargerHawkeye

72ChargerHawkeye

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I am about to pull my hair out right now. I have a 78' 360ci in my '72 Charger right now. Originally when my dad purchased the car it had the stock 318ci in it but he swapped it out for this rebuilt 360ci with a 600 CFM Edelbrock 1406 4 barrel carb. We got it all tuned up when I was in high school and never had a tuning issue again. Recently I got this car shipped to me after 10 years of sitting at my parents house. The work I have done so far to the car is obviously all fluids changed, new fuel lines from the tank all the way to the carb, new mechanical fuel pump as the old one broke, and rebuilt the carb using the rebuild kit from Edelbrock. After doing all this a ran the car around the block to check and it and it ran like I was back in high school. After this I replaced the tires changed the oil again and did some smaller stuff like replacing lights that were burnt out. Once I did this took it around the block again and now I have what looks to be a well known problem with Edelbrocks but with a not so known of a fix. When going from a complete stop at idle to accelerating the engine bogs down big time almost to the point of choking out until what seems like the engine catches up and revs the engine almost to the point of spinning the tires. From what I can find online is that many times the accelerator pump is normally the issue. With the rebuild kit from Edelbrock it comes with a new accelerator pump which I used and it ran great one time only. Any ideas on what this might be? I am at loss and would appreciate any help.
 
I've found two edelbrock accelerator pumps, blue and tan colored. I've found the blue doesn't fit close enough in some of the pump wells. I use #1467 pump. the 1406 is calibrated lean and down sizing the metering rod one step will help. float level being low can cause a bog. to large of a squirter isn't good for a driver either. it's also possible that the check valve in the accelerator circuit isn't working properly. also check your ignition timing and advance to make sure it's working correctly.
 
First thing I would do is take the top back off and check for dirt. Car sat for along time, it's bound to have rust and dirt. Also run some gas into a clear container and check for water. Water sinks to the bottom.
Get a fuel filter that's easily accessible, remove and inspect for dirt.

If you find dirt, siphon some gas out of the tank and see how much dirt is in there. Might have to remove and flush it out.
 
You said you changed the fuel pump, what is the output pressure? Mopar makes several pumps, even some with the 5/16 line make more pressure than some needle and seats can hold. Most 4 bbl carb engines do fine with 5-6 psi. Some of those Mopar pumps make 7-9 psi.
 
All 3 posts above me make A TON of sense.....all good advice
 
First: Remove the air cleaner and with the engine OFF, look into the carburetor and open the throttle with the linkage. ANY movement of the throttle arm should produce a good stream of fuel from both nozzles.
When you rebuilt the carburetor did you run Chemtool or another pressurized carb cleaner through all the orifices, followed by high pressure air?
As many of us have said, Carter style carburetors, including AFBs, Edelbrock and Webers are great providing they're tuned correctly and have a fresh, clean fuel source.
As was said, a low float level, incorrect or misadjusted accelerator pump/linkage, misadjusted mixture screws or too lean jets/metering rods will all contribute to a bog upon acceleration.
And, of course, a lot of problems thought to be from a carburetor actually are caused by timing problems...
 
Last edited:
One other thing kinda mentioned already, leather or rubberized(?) acc.pump? Don’t know if anyone still sells the leather but it’s better sealing.
 
I've had four $60 swap meet Eddy's that literally bolted on and ran.

The only one that ever bogged was after my rusted fuel line filled it up with crud.

The major offender was the duplex accellerator pump jet module.
 
YY1 said:
I've had four $60 swap meet Eddy's that literally bolted on and ran.

The only one that ever bogged was after my rusted fuel line filled it up with crud.

The major offender was the duplex accellerator pump jet module.
Click to expand...
i thought I was the only one who chased those swap meet edelbrocks,...lol!
 
...and I've "rebuilt" two of them without a kit.

SUPER easy to disassemble, and a simple cleaning and reassembly is really all they need.
 
Thanks for all the help. I will obviously be taking the carb back apart so I think I will go back to the original accelerator pump (the tan colored one) and see what that does. I have already had it apart once to check for dirt and debris but found nothing. I will go back in and check and make sure all of the spray nozzles are clear as well. I have got the timing on spot so I do not think that is it. I believe the issue is in the carb since I drove it that once after I rebuilt the carb and it ran great so I think I'm going to take it back apart and clean out all the passages and swap that accelerator pump back to the original one since I see the blue one has been the cause of many peoples problems. Ill let you all know what I find when I can get around to working on it.
 
The keys to make an AFB, or the like (Eddys), or any other carb, run right is they must be clean, and all the settings done right, in the right order. Clean means every 'port' should have cleaner blown through, to be sure their clear. In some cases, the port will lead to a check ball, restricting flow to one direction, and the check ball needs to be in good shape.
Simple matter is, to correct any part, so it does what it should do. Each setting done right, in order, since one affects the other.

Nothing hard about it, but carbs like things 'right'.

Agree with you on the accelerator pump, if it's in useable shape.
 
I just won't use those blue pumps. I don't know why they put them in the rebuild kits.
 
If ur tan one is leather & dried out just put a little eng.oil on your finger & rub it around the outside& allow to soak in. Then run a small screwdriver between inside spring & leather to kinda “bell it out” a little to seal better in the cavity.
 
I don't use the leather anymore and have the tan (1467) to work better.
 
The blue ones are junk ! As stated find yourself a tan one!
 
True or false, last week a guy was just on a kick about Edelbrock's telling me how more than say 4-4.5 psi of pressure can cause hard starting issues among other problems by supplying more fuel than the needle and seat can hold. I have little experience with the Edelbrocks.
 
Check fuel level in the bowls. It will do what you are stating if the fuel level is low.
 
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