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Tubular k frame. QA1? Reilly Motor Sports? Magmun Force?

Not in the market but thought Kern Dog's reasoning was well thought out and presented. Just as compelling is moparcrazy's reasons for installing his aftermarket RMS unit. This is the kind of information that is invaluable on this site.
Thanks guys.

Mine was free. Long story but I am not complaining. This was the only reason I made the change on my Challenger otherwise it would still have all of the stock front suspension under it no matter how fast I go.
 
Another thought to ponder: one system has many millions of miles and load cycles with a decent reliability, newer boutique systems are still pretty new and have not been put through the ringer as hard as the other. This is my main reason for being on the fence and keeping with oe.
 
Again, I run the oe but if I was to go aftermarket I’d go Reilly, bills set up is tried and tested on his own vehicles for years.
 
Another thought to ponder: one system has many millions of miles and load cycles with a decent reliability, newer boutique systems are still pretty new and have not been put through the ringer as hard as the other. This is my main reason for being on the fence and keeping with oe.
your comparing orange's & Apples, Stick with the Factory Stuff, I also run the RMS and love it.
 
I know in the future various pieces will be un ubtanium for availability and you will only be able to get conversion packages. Hopefully with the plethora of units out now and more coming, there will be a top dog unit or two worth using. In the meantime, the Stang 2 based units need to be watched for issues. A 38 Chevy I worked on had a 2 based unit under it and I was not impressed with how floppy it is and that the 12" long bolts in the lower arms are not very well supported. I replaced the two bolts as the were bent from lack of support. The owner babies his car and avoids road issues. Makes me wonder what they would be like if he hit potholes a lot.

IMG_1887.JPG
 
I just got the complete front suspension system for my 70 Roadrunner including tubular K-member. All QA1 except for the UCAs which are SPC.
I mainly did it because of a recent problem with a factory UCA bolt nut that stripped and destroyed my "new" front tires, wearing them to the belts "overnight"
Also no matter how experienced, no one could align the front end 100% due to lack of adjustability.
My main use for my car is cruising around and 1320 blasts, and I need to be able to get the most out of weight transfer and front suspension adjustments for lift (I'll remove the sway bar if necessary at the track). I already have 18 way double adjustable Viking front shocks.
The QA1 tubular K-member is WAY lighter than the stock one. From what I've read here, I think I am going to get WAY more performance than I expected, and the bonus of saving $2,500 or more going this route vs rack and pinion and coilovers is the difference in cost will cover the triangulated rear suspension system from Gerst or RMS that I absolutely want.
 
I have Hedman 3" long tube headers and I can't say that I notice a whole lot more clearance with the new K frame vs. the old one. I bought the QA1 piece because my original K frame was pretty mangled, and for the price it was only a little bit more to get a brand new one (free shipping) vs. buying a used one with unknown history plus the cost of shipping.

I'm a happy customer. Zero downsides so far.
I have all QA1 on my 68 mostly due to K member damage. Once I did that, I went ahead with control arms, strut rods, upgrade sway bar, rebuilt steering box. Went with PST C body tie rod assemblies and quick ratio idler/ pitman arms. Car is still in pieces, but it looks good. Hopefully it drives good too.
Tim
 
I have all QA1 on my 68 mostly due to K member damage. Once I did that, I went ahead with control arms, strut rods, upgrade sway bar, rebuilt steering box. Went with PST C body tie rod assemblies and quick ratio idler/ pitman arms. Car is still in pieces, but it looks good. Hopefully it drives good too.
Tim

Sounds exactly like what I did. I have QA1 K frame, LCAs and strut rods. In the process I also changed out UCAs (RMS), torsion bars and tie rods (Hotchkis). My driver's front took a pretty good hit earlier in its life and the K member was one of the casualties. Luckily no frame damage but a number of tweaked parts.

I've never driven a freshly rebuilt stock setup, so I don't have a baseline to compare against, but I was extremely happy with the improvement. For a 4000lb big-block car, it feels downright nimble and way more direct than before. I have driven around 600-700 miles on it now and I'm still a big fan.

The weak point now is the stock power steering box. I wish I had changed it for a Borgeson unit (actually, I really wish there is a bolt-in steering rack kit available).
 
(actually, I really wish there is a bolt-in steering rack kit available).
X2!!!!!
I have to call or email them because they show that they offer a MANUAL Borgeson steering box. Depending on the cost (because the power box + pump etc looks like it costs appx $1,200 EEK!) I may get one if it's not horribly expensive. Otherwise I'll likely get the power steering version when I get my serpentine system as long as the power steering pump that comes with the power steering pulley is compatible with the Borgeson box.
 
I've never driven a freshly rebuilt stock setup, so I don't have a baseline to compare against, but I was extremely happy with the improvement. For a 4000lb big-block car, it feels downright nimble and way more direct than before. I have driven around 600-700 miles on it now and I'm still a big fan.

The weak point now is the stock power steering box. I wish I had changed it for a Borgeson unit (actually, I really wish there is a bolt-in steering rack kit available).

I like how you emphasized that you have never driven a car with a rebuilt stock setup. I'd suspect that most haven't either. It is because of this that I rally FOR the stock based setup with torsion bars.
 
I like how you emphasized that you have never driven a car with a rebuilt stock setup. I'd suspect that most haven't either. It is because of this that I rally FOR the stock based setup with torsion bars.
Not for nothin my man but you sure know how to muddy up a thread with your opinion of something that is not cared about by the OP with ramming your opinion up everyone’s ***.

Good job wrecking a thread!

I could have sworn it is your car your way not what somebody else’s way or is it best to be. Rownbeaten into what someone else likes?

Sounds like the local Mopar club president and his side kick. “No no no, you don’t have to join up!” And I’ve been harassed every time I see them since. (It’s been 7 years and counting.)
 
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