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QA1 Upper, lower and K member components. What are the gotchas, or how to make this go smoothly?

dasol7172

dasol7172

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Hi Everyone,

I am going to go the front end route with QA1 on my 71 Satellite. What are any gotchas or things I should do or have on hand for install of the components. Do I need or should I order all the other parts that QA1 has like the adjustment bolts and so on. I just want to buy once cry once on this and not have to stop in the middle of it because there is something I should have ordered but didn't so i have to wait while the car is in pieces.

Thanks for any info!
 
If you've never pulled the torsion bars you will probably need a clamp on tool thingy you can hammer on to pull them. (I made my own out of aluminum) Sometimes vise grips over a rag will work but will chew up the bars. I would get the whole kit but if you want to save some money the LCR can be modified with stiffener plates and reused. Everything else should bolt in pretty easy. Is the motor in the car? If so you'll need to support it somehow. Also count the turns on the adjusters torsion bar adjusters so you can get them close to where they were.
 
I didn't do the k member but did the qa1 lowers and strut rods. Went with SRP uppers. If your adjusters are old and rusted you might order theirs to avoid problems if one of yours breaks. all in all the front end was fairly straight forward. you may want to spend the money and get new ball joints while your in there. The lowers dont come with them. not sure about their uppers.
 
2quick said:
If you've never pulled the torsion bars you will probably need a clamp on tool thingy you can hammer on to pull them. (I made my own out of aluminum) Sometimes vise grips over a rag will work but will chew up the bars. I would get the whole kit but if you want to save some money the LCR can be modified with stiffener plates and reused. Everything else should bolt in pretty easy. Is the motor in the car? If so you'll need to support it somehow. Also count the turns on the adjusters torsion bar adjusters so you can get them close to where they were.
Click to expand...


I did mine by loosening the LCA pivot bolt and the TB clip. Smack the LCA to the rear of the car a couple of times and then to the front and back again and the TB pops right out.
 
Yes, the motor is in the car. So I know i need to hold it up in there while I unbolt the motor mounts and k-member. I don't have a lift. so I was thinking a motor crane to hold it up while I swap k-member and bolt it back in. QA1 has some other components that they list with the front end parts like the camber adjustment bolts, strut rods and torsion bar adjustment bolts Should I get those also?
 
I used my old adjusters just wire wheeled them, sprayed them with some chassis black and some anti seize on the threads. Like 2 quick said the torsion bars can be a bit tricky but if you’re replacing them also just loosen the LCA and give It a few good whacks you might get lucky, I did. Or you can order the tool from Mancini or make your own just be careful not to knock the bars up. I did lowers uppers and struts it went pretty smooth.
 
dasol7172 said:
Yes, the motor is in the car. So I know i need to hold it up in there while I unbolt the motor mounts and k-member. I don't have a lift. so I was thinking a motor crane to hold it up while I swap k-member and bolt it back in. QA1 has some other components that they list with the front end parts like the camber adjustment bolts, strut rods and torsion bar adjustment bolts Should I get those also?[/QUOTE

I did.
img_1346-jpg.jpg
Click to expand...
 
dasol7172 said:
Yes, the motor is in the car. So I know i need to hold it up in there while I unbolt the motor mounts and k-member. I don't have a lift. so I was thinking a motor crane to hold it up while I swap k-member and bolt it back in. QA1 has some other components that they list with the front end parts like the camber adjustment bolts, strut rods and torsion bar adjustment bolts Should I get those also?
Click to expand...

You probably should order their Camber adjustment bolts. The strut rods are optional but if you dont choose to use theirs at least check and replace your current strut rod bushing while you are in there. I would opt for the polyurethane version if you dont go with the Qa1 solid bushing strut rod.
 
Never tried loosening/Knocking the lower control arm to release the torsion bar, I'll remember that next time.
 
2quick said:
Never tried loosening/Knocking the lower control arm to release the torsion bar, I'll remember that next time.
Click to expand...
My uncle told me to try it while I was taking everything apart, he used to work at a frame shop back in the 60’s-70’s sure enough it worked
 
2quick said:
Never tried loosening/Knocking the lower control arm to release the torsion bar, I'll remember that next time.
Click to expand...


Worked like a champ for me, on both sides.
 
I got the QA1 K-member for my '70 Coronet. Seems like a terrific piece, the only problem I had was that the steering box mount is drilled and tapped for the steering box, then welded to the K-frame. When I bolted on the steering box the bolts bottomed out on the K-frame. I had to get a carbide burr and an air die grinder and carefully grind a bit of clearance for the bolts. You need to be carefull so as not to grind (bugger) the threads. Took about a half hour but I resent the fact that I had to do it at all. But it is a nice piece and I recommend it.
 
Sahara said:
I got the QA1 K-member for my '70 Coronet. Seems like a terrific piece, the only problem I had was that the steering box mount is drilled and tapped for the steering box, then welded to the K-frame. When I bolted on the steering box the bolts bottomed out on the K-frame. I had to get a carbide burr and an air die grinder and carefully grind a bit of clearance for the bolts. You need to be carefull so as not to grind (bugger) the threads. Took about a half hour but I resent the fact that I had to do it at all. But it is a nice piece and I recommend it.
Click to expand...
Couldn’t you have just went to the auto parts store and bought new bolts? Sucks that the problem existed but I feel like I would’ve went to the store and got new bolts instead.
 
Watch my video on youtube for t-bar removal. Roll Another One Fabrications.
 
1967coronet440 said:
Couldn’t you have just went to the auto parts store and bought new bolts? Sucks that the problem existed but I feel like I would’ve went to the store and got new bolts instead.
Click to expand...
Two things. The first is: look to the left. I live in the arctic. My local auto parts store sells traps and snowmobiles. The second is that the problem wasn't that the bolts are too long but that the hole was too shallow.
 
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