73 and up UCA bushings- missing from FSM

YY1 · Feb 4, 2018

Anyone got tips, a how to or a video link?

I got the PDF 1973 Charger manual from mymopar.com, but it skips right over the new for '73 captive UCA pivot.

There are detailed instructions for the familiar 72 and down style, still in use on A and C body cars in '73, but nothing for B body.

It looks like a bitch to press out that pivot bar.

After 45 min of googling, all I see is 72 and down as well, or A body, which is the same.

1967coronet440 · Feb 4, 2018

We pressed put the uca bushings and pivot shafts effortlessly just using my little press from harbor freight. Getting the bushing out for the pivot shafts was another story, hammer and chisel for about 30 minutes

YY1 · Feb 5, 2018

Where did you put the press?
The pivot shaft is captive between the bushings, which are pressed into the arm.
The only thing I can see to do, is put the press on the end of the threaded shaft (uh, OK), and then let the extremely small, semi-curved contact area of the shaft to the inner bushing (uh, OK again) push the inner bushing sleeve out.

I hope they issued a supplement to the FSM for this, 'cause it's just not there.

I think I will cross post to the 75-79 forum as they all have to deal with it as well.

YY1 · Feb 5, 2018

Solution here-

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...hing-instructions-missing-from-73-fsm.145921/

Not pretty, though.

idrivemopar · Feb 14, 2018

Here is why no instructions. This is in the 73 Plymouth FSM

YY1 · Feb 15, 2018

Yikes.

Good luck finding that.

They sell the bushings.....

I did get it.

Kernel Sanders · Feb 15, 2018

Here is what I did with a couple sets I needed to do a number of years ago:

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...er-control-arm-bushings.87595/#post-910215213

POST#4

"I used a torch to burn out the old bushings to get the shaft out first, then press out the shells.

Then press in one new bushing, put the shaft in and press the other bushing in with the shaft. This is trickier but I did it with a hollow piece of pipe cut length wise to look like a "C" to fit between and over the bushings for support to press the second bushing

MOOG replacement bushings are K7058 as mentioned above (I have 2 spare brand new ones you can have for shipping)

Hope that makes sense...

With a second set I actually burnt out the old bushings, didn't remove the shells and replaced with PST's poly bushings which require you to just clean and reuse the shells in place without removing them."

YY1 · Feb 15, 2018

I did not have to torch anything, and my "practice" UCAs look like they have been sitting outside for a LONG time.

I did wire brush as much of the crusty rust off as I could, and spray penetrating oil on them.

I also cut off the rubber from the inboard side of the bushing, so the metal bar supports would have a flat contact.

...and I used a 6" rigid electrical conduit nipple as a hollow press extension.

I found that after looking at all sorts of things to try.
I'll post the size next time I'm at the shop.

I also got a plumbing nipple to press the new bushings in, as it requires a different ID/OD combo than pressing the old ones out and electrical and plumbing pipe sizing is different.

YY1 · Feb 15, 2018

...and this is the first use of my rehabbed shop press that I bought as an unfinished project at an estate sale !!

idrivemopar · Feb 15, 2018

I was just posting what was in my FSM so you knew that back in the day, it was considered a non-serviceable part. I as well have replaced the bushings.

73 and up UCA bushings- missing from FSM

YY1

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1967coronet440

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YY1

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YY1

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idrivemopar

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YY1

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Kernel Sanders

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YY1

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YY1

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idrivemopar

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