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Press out UCA bushing instructions? Missing from 73 FSM!

YY1

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This is a cross post from the 73/74 and suspension forum.

I figured you 75-79 guys have the same problem.
Maybe the info got put in late as an insert.
Maybe someone has a 74 through 79 FSM that has the info.
73 was the latest PDF available on mymopar.

Anyone got tips, a how to or a video link?

I got the PDF 1973 Charger manual from mymopar.com, but it skips right over the new for '73 captive UCA pivot.

There are detailed instructions for the familiar 72 and down style, still in use on A and C body cars in '73, but nothing for B body.

It looks like a bitch to press out that pivot bar.

After 45 min of googling, all I see is 72 and down as well, or A body, which is the same.

Thanks in advance.
 
This might help..... find a socket about the same size or slightly smaller than the outer metal on the upper control arm bushing. Set up your control arm in a large vise with the socket wedged against the bushing. Heat the outer part of the upper control arm with a torch (have good ventilation because you will be burning the rubber). Once the control arm is hot, squeeze the vise & the socket will push out the upper control arm bushing.

You can do something similar to put the new bushing back in, but try not to have the new bushing set up in the vise until the control arm is hot. You will definitely want a set of welder's gloves.

Hopefully this helps OR someone with a better idea chimes in.

Oh yeah, when you mention "pivots" do you mean the upper ball joint? I've found those easiest to remove with the control arm bolted up to the chassis. They have some very large "ball joint sockets" you can use on a 3/4" drive breaker bar. 1st attempt...hose that sucker with PB Blaster. If that doesn't work, heat the control arm in the area of the ball joint with a torch (to expand it) & then turn it out. You might also try scraping away any exterior rust around the threads before using the PB Blaster.
 
I'm beginning to see that this is a sorely neglected topic.

The pivot bar goes through both bushings and is held captive there.

The advice above can't be followed with the bar in place.

I've just spent all morning watching youtube vids on everything from M bodies to corvettes, to Dakotas, that use a similar design.

NO ONE, NOT ONE VID shows the removal of the pivot shaft!!!

I also found an excerpt from the 79 FSM...

Guess what?

NO explanation of the captive pivot shaft. IN depth process for the lowers, but NOTHING for the uppers.

Crazy

UCA.jpg
 
Burn the bushings out bar will fall out replace the metal part most bushings will come apart the metal part can be pressed in and then the rubber removed put bar back in place grease the hell out of the rubber s and get them back into place . It's not bad I did it on the side of the road once with my brothers duster same setup
 
Duster does NOT have the same setup.

It's the same as pre-1973 B.

No pivot bar.

Thanks, though.
 
That procedure definitely should have been addressed in the FSM.

They had six years to do it!

I'm a tech writer IRL, and this would get someone an *** chewing on my watch.
 
I have 73 and 75 FSM if I can help maybe have/ had a 78 but don't see it
 
Well, I was not able to get the method shown above to work.

The pressure kept making the assembly fall off the unsupported side.

I did accidentally discover a way that did work-

I first cut a notch in a length of 7/16 flat bar, thinking I could support the inner sleeve on three sides and not have the unsupported side issue.

That simply bent the bar!

While I was jockeying things around and trying different combos, I had the idea to try some pressure on the pivot shaft, just to make sure it would move.

While trying to set this up, I dropped everything, and it all fell with the portion of the control arm that's bent over for reinforcement and in the way of a support placement on that side...right in the notch I'd cut, but with the bar on end.

I used another length of 7/16 bar, on end to support the other side, and - bingo.

IMG_20180210_141154.jpg
IMG_20180210_141159.jpg
IMG_20180210_142211.jpg
IMG_20180210_142219.jpg
IMG_20180210_142337.jpg
 
I replaced them in my 73 runner, well, had a 4x4 shop press out the rubber bushings, left the sleeve in the uca, then pressed in new rubber bushings. All is well, however, here is the reason there is no pivot bar disassembly instructions for UCA on 73 as mentioned in the 73 Plymouth, Chrysler, Imperial Chassis Service Manual.
20180214_160314a.jpg
 
Thanks. Quite interesting.

As you can see above, it is doable.
 
I was just posting what was in my FSM so you knew that back in the day, it was considered a non-serviceable part. I have replaced the bushings in mine as well.
 
Thanks. Quite interesting.

As you can see above, it is doable.


so doable that every suspensions parts manufacturer makes and sells the stock rubber replacements. And I have made that job maybe couple of times
 
so doable that every suspensions parts manufacturer makes and sells the stock rubber replacements. And I have made that job maybe couple of times


...yet before my attempt, there was very nearly ZERO information about how to complete the procedure which is considerably different and much more involved than the earlier version without the bar through the bushings.

You're welcome.
 
well I have to admit never have made it by myself because I don't have the tooling, but all mech shops in Venezuela at least have being doing that since ever. The first time I sent to replace mines were maybe 15-17 year ago
 
THANK YOU charged440
Been pulling my hair waiting for someone to get it right.
Torch to burn rubber lol
 
As far I recall GM upper arms are made just like the 73 and lates B bodies, with shaft built into assembly. Wondering if their FSMs also say they can't be serviced but just replaced as a full assembly
 
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