66HOTROD
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We are considering buying a 2 post lift for our new shop. Does anybody have opinions on which brand is the best, feature and value wise? Anything to look out for? Thanks for your help!
Reviews on 2 post lift
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dukeboy_318
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I have an Atlas from gregsmithequipment. 10,000 lb commercial. I've had heavy 1 ton diesels that push that 10,000 lb limit, no issues at all. It's going on 7 years old. Cost half as much as some of the name brand but works just as well.compared them and a rotatory brand in person and I felt the Altas looked stronger
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I bought a 11,000 lb rated Challenger lift in 2015. Assymentrical arms too. Great unit. I've only lifted vehicles under 6000 lbs but it works great, everything feels stable. I built the shop that it is in, I made the ceiling vaulted to accommodate the columns. The concrete under the columns is 18" thick, 24" X 24" wide....Yeah, overkill!
I like bendpak, no matter what two post you purchase. The concrete its bolted to is just as important or more so than the brand of lift. Good bed, and 3' x 3' x 8" of good mix plus bar drilled into any surrounding slab.
Seen one pull one side loose once out of 4".
Or like kern posted the more crete the better.
Seen one pull one side loose once out of 4".
Or like kern posted the more crete the better.
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My 9000lb Direct Lift is a residential version made for Rotary Lift. I installed it to 6+ " of well cured (15+ year) concrete and the one post cracked the floor lifting my wife's Sport trac. So I built an upper truss for it, C/W braces to the roof trusses. Have had no issues with full size F150's and Sierras on it since. Left my Bee on there for almost a year up full height.
Maybe no longer true but my old Rotary 9000# lift (bought at auction) has served me well for 15 years now. Best $2000.00 I ever spent!
Mike
Mike
I have a Rotary 10000 lb. Never had a problem with it, although in hindsight I wish I would have bought the 12000 pound model. I wont lift my 2500 RAM 4 door 8' box truck that is loaded with tools and parts any more than a couple of inches to rotate the tires. Just to big of vehicle for the smaller lift.
Glenwood
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What's the ceiling height needed for that one?
Has anyone ever cut their slab to dig down and pour thicker concrete below the post locations?
dukeboy_318
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I like bendpak, no matter what two post you purchase. The concrete its bolted to is just as important or more so than the brand of lift. Good bed, and 3' x 3' x 8" of good mix plus bar drilled into any surrounding slab.
Seen one pull one side loose once out of 4".
Or like kern posted the more crete the better.
Its not entirely about the thickness.
There's different PSI/Tensile strength concrete. MOST residential garage concrete used around the country is the lowest allowed by code, M10 (~1500 psi tensile strength) to maybe the 2nd lowest, M15 (~2200 psi), sometimes M20 (2900 psi) depending on local codes. Rotary and other 2 post lift makers usually require cured concrete at a minimum PSI grade of 3000 or M25 or higher at 6 inches thick. If cured that long and the lift cracked it, I'm betting you've got M15 or M10.
Personally, I wouldn't install a lift, especially a 2 poster on anything less than M50 for a lift, I know the lift people put a minimum of M25 grade but I like overkill. The current shop that has the lift we have on the farm uses M50, 14 inches thick and we've have 40 ton pieces of equipment on that floor and hasnt cracked and the concrete is nearly 25 years old. The new shop I'm building next year, I'm going with M70(the highest locally available), 12 inches thick. cost is just 24 dollars more per cubic yard over M20, and will only add 1100 to my build.
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That is what 1967coronet was talking about in the threads above. Cut the block out for the hoist, drill horizontally into the existing slab and put bars into the holes out into the new pour area.
I'll measure the post height for you when I hit the shop. My overall shop ceiling is 10' 3" high and you can see I took the trusses I built up about a foot. I bought the hoist from these guys Glenwood.. after a LOT of searching to find anyone in Ontario that would sell direct vs though a dealer/ etc. Specs are there, it says overall height 111" but I'll measure mine to the top without truss to confirm.
http://www.directlift.ca/pro-9f.htm
dukeboy_318
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How high does that lift? can a 6 ft tall person walk under it lifted?
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Specs say max lift height is 81". I can't go that high with a car on due to ceiling height, but I'm close with the Bee. I'm 5' 10.
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Glenwood.. indeed 111 & 1/8" post height.
When I got the lift in Nov 2012 it was 2195Cdn + $200 shipping from Concord to Penetang. I see it's now $2895. Even at that I have paid for this lift about 5 times over saving family from having to use the local garage at $100/hr.
When I got the lift in Nov 2012 it was 2195Cdn + $200 shipping from Concord to Penetang. I see it's now $2895. Even at that I have paid for this lift about 5 times over saving family from having to use the local garage at $100/hr.
It is common practice in construction to pour footings for heavy machinery before the floor pour and separate the machine footing from the floor slab with a expansion barrier to allow the floor slab to float.
Mike
soundhd
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Really depends on how much your going to use it and what is the weight of the largest vehicle you may want to lift?
If it is going to be used everyday I would go with Rotary.....you see that brand a lot in repair shops and dealerships. If only going to be used once in awhile go with BendPak. I purchased BendPak two post lift about 10 years ago. Mine is rated for 10,000 lbs. Have had no problems with it and have had a 7000 lb. pickup on it a few times.
Hope this helps.
If it is going to be used everyday I would go with Rotary.....you see that brand a lot in repair shops and dealerships. If only going to be used once in awhile go with BendPak. I purchased BendPak two post lift about 10 years ago. Mine is rated for 10,000 lbs. Have had no problems with it and have had a 7000 lb. pickup on it a few times.
Hope this helps.
Which lift did you choose for your new shop?
747mopar
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Mines a Worth, very beefy with a big footprint, best of all it's made in Texas. For me I narrowed it down by tossing all the lifts made overseas out lol... wasn't many left. I also don't like asymmetrical lifts where the weight is severely off center putting even more stress on the anchors but that's just me. Not sure if any others offer this service but for an extra $300 Worth made my lift wider along with lengthening the arms so I can easily open my doors without going asymmetrical.
My floor is crappy . If I was worried about strength of a floor to put in a lift Id cut a hole bigger than the mounting pads. Take hand held post hole digger and dig a hole 2/3 feet deep then drive in a couple of 2/2.5 inch pieces of pipe in each hole 5/6 feet long, so pipe is 4/5 inches below finished slab. Galvanized? Be sure to fill the pipes with concrete Other reinforcement ? Overkill or to weak? Studs in concrete for lift before you pour.
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