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My wife has had it with the smell!

if carbs are rich gas will load up in muflers especially if not on long drive to evaporate excess gas . learned this when an apprentice cutting off exhaust . that is the reason the boys would use the hand choke to get gas for flame throwers . guess i am dateing myself . and have seen the top of tank leak before too .
 
Since you just had the carbs tuned you may want to just pull the air filter assy and make sure the top fuel bowl screws are tightened down on the nuts. I had one weeping with engine running, slight tightening cured it.
 
Do you have a repop fuel tank?

If you do the chances are extremely high that the vent lines are reversed in the tank and you will need to reverse them at the hose hookup.
 
Do you have a repop fuel tank?

If you do the chances are extremely high that the vent lines are reversed in the tank and you will need to reverse them at the hose hookup.
Please elaborate on this ... I am using a repop tank on my 68 ...
 
I would wager since it's a pre-emissions vehicle, (aside from having a PCV valve) the gas tank and the carbs vent directly to the atmosphere. There is no charcoal canister on board to absorb the raw fuel fumes from these sources like the later cars. I don't know if you'd want to retro fit such a system for originality's sake but it's an idea at any rate.
 
Repop tanks for a long time have had the lines switched inside by mistake. That means that the vent line going up through the trunk floor and into the frame received the vapor meant for the line that vented under the shock cross-member and vice-versa. It would catch raw fuel instead of vapor. Caused a lot of problems including fuel running out on inclines also when tank is full. "Backyard" fix is to swap the rubber lines under the car. I am not sure when and if they have ever been corrected. Mine is wrong also.
 
This is pretty subjective. There are many who don't remember what was considered normal.
It's a matter of degree. I sometimes get a hint of fuel here and there. Should not drive you out of the house though. Another enthusiast owner nearby may help. When Linda ******* enough about it, I start thinking something is wrong. She just smells EVERYTHiNG.
 
Its sort of like cigarette smoke in today's times. Someone smoking a cigarette outdoors can be smelled nowadays for 1 mile. Twenty years ago you would not have noticed cigarette smoke.

It does not take much to have a lingering order after a cold start. My choke pulls off in about 4 minutes, but that initial cold start produces some vapors that do linger. I now turn on a box fan in the garage and blow outwards when I do a cold start.

Can't say the hot soak in the garage produces too much. There is a hint of gas fumes, but it does not linger too long.

If you aren't bellowing black smoke your car is probably 'normal' for back in the day.

Sort of a related story; back in the 1980s the company I worked for was contracting breathalyzers. In winter months, we had calibration problems on the factory lines. Realized the issues were at 6AM and 2PM. There was a school bus depot near our offices back parking lot. Starting 20, or 30 school buses at the exact same time somehow put enough hydrocarbon into the air that it got into our ventilation system and the calibrations went wacky. You could smell the rich running buses in our parking lot, but not in the building.
 
This is the problem - I had exactly the same thing years ago. Replacing with a 4BBL and a QuikFuel carb solved the problem.

No point wasting time checking the plugs etc....fuel is just evaporating out of the carbs and into the room atmosphere.
Ventilation is the key - or let the engine cool down before parking inside.
It’s not necessarily that cut and dried.
 
The only viable solution to your predicament/dilemma is a detached 4 bay garage with an additional 1,400 sq ft of shop floor space.
:rolleyes:
 
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Repop tanks for a long time have had the lines switched inside by mistake. That means that the vent line going up through the trunk floor and into the frame received the vapor meant for the line that vented under the shock cross-member and vice-versa. It would catch raw fuel instead of vapor. Caused a lot of problems including fuel running out on inclines also when tank is full. "Backyard" fix is to swap the rubber lines under the car. I am not sure when and if they have ever been corrected. Mine is wrong also.
Just installed a spectra tank on mine and the vent lines were correct. If the tank is already installed though, I'm not sure how you would go about verifying which is which unless you see fuel coming from the line at the shock tower. The short line outside the tank should attach to the long line inside. If the lines in the tank are correct, the short line that attaches to the shock tower should go to the tank vent line farthest from the sending unit. (If correct in the tank, that would be the long line inside)
 
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Just installed a spectra tank on mine and the vent lines were correct. If the tank is already installed though, I'm not sure how you would go about verifying which is which unless you see fuel coming from the line at the shock tower. The short line outside the tank should attach to the long line inside. If the lines in the tank are correct, the short line that attaches to the shock tower should go to the tank vent line farthest from the sending unit. (If correct in the tank, that would be the long line inside)
It is good that they have fixed the problem.
 
Thanks all. I had the carbs tuned recently,
What exactly did "tuning the carbs" include. I would think that means adjusting the mixture screws for whatever metering rods & jets are in there. You may need to figure out what rods & jets you are running and then decide if they are good for your application or need to be leaned out a bit.
 
What exactly did "tuning the carbs" include. I would think that means adjusting the mixture screws for whatever metering rods & jets are in there. You may need to figure out what rods & jets you are running and then decide if they are good for your application or need to be leaned out a bit.
Yeah, tuning a six pack is something a lot of guys in a shop don't understand. The outboards do have adjustments in the throttle base and I have yet to install a set of these carbs that did not need adjusted. That's why I buy a throttle base from promax so I can adjust the rear carb without taking it off the car.
 
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