• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Winter treatment

Maxxx

Well-Known Member
Local time
2:36 PM
Joined
Aug 18, 2016
Messages
125
Reaction score
6
Location
Waterloo, ON
Hey I just bought a 71 RR clone in NC in January, nicely restored driver, had it trucked up to my garage in Ontario Canada where it has sat since. Drove it off the truck after idling for five minutes, parked it in the garage and shut it off. Its the dead of winter here, I haven't had a chance to start it up since. I'm only a hobby mechanic by necessity, fixing brakes and tune ups and whatever on our modern cars as needed. The RR is a 400 ci, freshly rebuilt. Should I periodically start and run it in the garage? Or should I let it hibernate and pull the plugs? Please let me know your thoughts, new to this :)
 
I’m not a fan of starting and let idle, if it’s not going to be driven just leave it. Prime the oil system before you start in spring. Do you mean pull the spark plugs? I wouldn’t, I want the engine sealed while stored. Cover it, wheels off the ground, either on rollers or jack stands. Full tank of gas... My .02
 
Good advice. I'll get it on jack stands, I don't have rollers. How to prime oil? I don't have rotary tool to turn distributor shaft...
 
There is no need to prime the oil system for such a short period. Also, as towtruckal said, don't put jackstand on the frame.
 
Mine is hibernating


IMG_2266.JPG
 
There is no need to prime the oil system for such a short period. Also, as towtruckal said, don't put jackstand on the frame.
You don’t think an engine can lose prone over a winter season? Especially a Canada winter... I wouldn’t chance it, easy enough to do for insurance
 
Its not that fragile, people tend to overthink these things. Antifreeze is the only thing I would check.
 
I simply cover her up when I shut it down for the last time in Sept. or Oct.. In April all I do is prime the carb to fill the evaporated float bowls (thus shorter crank time) and fire her up (after an oil change). Oil pressure starts to climb just slightly while cranking and jumps right to 60 psi the second she fires.
 
Thank you Al, Phil, Khrysler, and Coronet. The car was running "extensively" during maneuvers in early January, and garage does not drop below freezing. I'll consider getting the priming rod anyways though. Anti freeze has already been taken care of. For elevating under the suspension, axle in back and k frame in front?
 
Oops didn't see the others input also. Thank you everyone!
I've got a battery tender on it.
Oil is recent, but engine has been rebuilt recently also so I was going to change after taking it for a few laps in the spring, maybe 200-300 miles. What is used to prime the carb to fill the bowls? Just pumping the gas pedal?

Thank you Al, Phil, Khrysler, and Coronet. The car was running "extensively" during maneuvers in early January, and garage does not drop below freezing. I'll consider getting the priming rod anyways though. Anti freeze has already been taken care of. For elevating under the suspension, axle in back and k frame in front?
 
I made the mistake years ago of starting the car in the garage during the winter months. The garage is attached and stays 45-50 degrees but still cold. Letting it idle not only stinks up garage some but when you shut it off condensation will build in the engine and mess up oil really bad and if you don’t change it before you fire it up, bad things will happen! As stated, cover up, battery tender when needed and check all fluids before first fire up in spring. Also, I’ve never had to prime oil after a winter hibernation and we have some lengthy hibernating to do here. Like this year!
 
What is used to prime the carb to fill the bowls? Just pumping the gas pedal?
Pumping the pedal won't do anything until the float bowls have gas in them.

I just use a bottle like this.
8674606705?src=http%3A%2F%2Fm2.uxcell.com%2Fphoto_new%2F20160310%2Fd%2Fux_a16031000ux0446_ux_d01.jpg


Then give a good healthy squirt (about 1/4 of the bottle) into each of the float bowl vents.
attachment.jpg
 
Don't forget to put in a gas stabilizer in your gas tank and let the car run to get it in your fuel lines, pump and carb. I use a product called Pirg-G. Never have a problem with the car starting after sitting all winter (still have to prime the carb). I use it in all my gas cars, equipment and extra gas cans. Makes your gas last longer and prevents varnish build up. I think it also works much better than Stabil.
 
If you .change oil before start up its a good idea
to fill oil filter before installing,helps get out
pressure sooner.
 
BTW I'm putting jack stands underneath the k frame in front and the axle in the back to elevate all four tires
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top