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FiTech Go EFI 8 - 1200 HP, #30012 on Charger project

I just drilled the distributor cap so I can check rotor phasing. I think it was a but too close to the terminal, got the tower part a bit, but not the machined contact area. I think it will be fine for this?

Cap Holes.jpg
 
I just drilled the distributor cap so I can check rotor phasing. I think it was a but too close to the terminal, got the tower part a bit, but not the machined contact area. I think it will be fine for this?

View attachment 580242

Which MSD distributor and control box does Fi Tech recommend to use with their injection system?
 
Which MSD distributor and control box does Fi Tech recommend to use with their injection system?
If the fitech is controlling the timing you don’t need a box, just dizzy. You’ll need a 2 wire like the billet series
 
Well, I already "fired" it up. It started easier than with the carb, but I still need to work on getting it to idle better.
It was also pretty easy to wire up. I had already welded an O2 sensor bung in my headers for a O2 gauge, so I did not use the supplied O2 bung that clamps onto the header/exhaust.
Most likely on a mild engine, it would be setup pretty good out of the box?
I could not drive the car because the the fuel system was just a Walbro 450 pump in a 5-gallon fuel jug sitting on the floor.

If possible would you mind posting a few screen shots of the tuning software? I understand it isn't necessary to access but would like to see what is available in terms of idle parameters, ve table/etc.

Thanks.
 
For the EFI to control timing, they recommend the MSD pro-billet magnetic pickup distributor, not the all-in-one type. And also the phaseable rotor kit.
For the 400 block, the distributor part number would be #8545, and costs $323 from summit racing. I'm not sure on the adjustable rotor kit, I think part #8421?, another $36, so MSD route is about $359.

I am using the remanufactured A1 Cardone #30-3867, Lean burn distributor. stock application is 1977 Mopars with 400 lean burn distributor.
Cost $77. Takes stock Mopar Cap and Rotor kit. I used the more expensive ACCEL kit that costs $31, so a total of about $108, or $251 less than the MSD setup. I checked phasing with the lean burn distributor today and it looks pretty good using the "run" pickup which has the normal looking Chrysler type connector end. The "Start" pickup with the larger odd looking connector is not used.
 
I don't have screen shots yet. The car is at a friends house, so I don't have access to the controller tonight.
This link to the controller manual may help, but is not "screen shots".
http://fitechefi.com/fitech-uploads/2016/07/HandheldcontrollerfeatureDefinitions.pdf

The power adder versions come with the "Pro-Cal" software for a PC or laptop.
The tables are really small, just a few break-points. I think they did this on purpose to make the system easier to use for the average guy who just wants to replace their carb.
I haven't got into the tuning part yet. I just removed the old fuel system and fuel cell today so I can install the in-tank EFI pump kit in the fuel cell.
I think the table break-points can be changed, but I'm not sure? I really don't need the "Boosted" MAP breakpoints.
 
First cold fire-up with the windowed distributor cap to check rotor phasing.
Temp fuel system for life support until the new pump is in the tank.
 
Made good progress on the fuel system install.
Installed the FiTech Hy-Fuel #40019 in-tank pump module (340 lph pump) in the fuel cell, plumbed the lines, looped the supply and return to test the pump , check for leaks, and flush the lines of any junk before connecting them to the EFI unit. Attached the lines to the EFI, and re-checked for fuel leaks under pressure with the regulator. This was done running the pump directly from a battery with the EFI wiring disconnected.
Got most of the wiring done, maybe an hour more to finish that up. Trying to find right sized wire grommets and getting some of the fuel lines made took more time than expected. Had a hard time getting the Russell ProClasic hose into the -AN fittings (Fittings are also Russel brand that came with the Edelbrock XT EFI kit that is on the Coronet.) My friend had some AeroQuip StartLight hose and it assembled with no problems.
 
Great info. I am building a stock stroke 440 now that will have a FiTech on it.
 
Made good progress on the fuel system install.
Installed the FiTech Hy-Fuel #40019 in-tank pump module (340 lph pump) in the fuel cell, plumbed the lines, looped the supply and return to test the pump , check for leaks, and flush the lines of any junk before connecting them to the EFI unit. Attached the lines to the EFI, and re-checked for fuel leaks under pressure with the regulator. This was done running the pump directly from a battery with the EFI wiring disconnected.
Got most of the wiring done, maybe an hour more to finish that up. Trying to find right sized wire grommets and getting some of the fuel lines made took more time than expected. Had a hard time getting the Russell ProClasic hose into the -AN fittings (Fittings are also Russel brand that came with the Edelbrock XT EFI kit that is on the Coronet.) My friend had some AeroQuip StartLight hose and it assembled with no problems.
So, after all the rigging, and collecting parts, how much money do u have in it ? interested.
 
The FiTech Go 8 #30012 was $1,495.00
The FiTech HyFuel In-Tank Pump was $314.10
The Lean Burn Distributor from Summit was $90.97
Accell Cap and Rotor Kit $31.35
I used a pricy K&N #81-1000 25micron stainless screen fuel filter with -6 AN ends, $118.99. I could have used the K&N PF-1000, GM replacement filter for $11.99 and add the -6 adaptors (-6 to 16mmx 1.5 woth "O" ring) Earls 991955ERL $8.55 each ($29.09 total)
Total without plumbing or wiring = $2,050.41 (lower cost filter would have been $1,960.51)

I made a plug-in adaptor cable to connect the Lean-burn distributor to the FiTech wiring. I had a mopar dist connector end from an old harness and bought the MSD #8824 connector kit for the magnetic pickup plug-in from the Distributor $7.45. Plus the cost of a few feet of wire that I twisted together, so maybe $10 for the adaptor cable? Brings my ignition change up to $132.32.
As mentioned, the MSD Dist #8545 for this would have been $322.95 plus the phasable rotor kit price, I think $36.38, total $359.33, so going with the MSD is only about $227.01 more?
So, total with MSD would have been $2,277.42

Plumbing the car:
The car was already plumbed with -8 hose with return, so I used two -8 female to -6 male adaptors $3.97 each ($7.94), and a -8 male to -6 male adaptor $2.97.
I already had extra -6 hose and fittings, but I used two 90-degree fittings at the EFI body to help clearance with the 1" drop air filter base.
I used another 90 at the filter also. Used 3 straight -6 hose ends, and one 45-degree hose end.
I guess on average the fittings cost around $10 to $15 each, so 7 fittings x 10 = $70, or 7 X 15 = $105?
I had extra hose too, but maybe used 6' or less of -6 to connect up everything, so maybe about $42.97 for 6' of startlite hose.
I also used an extra Dist cap, Mopar brand, $13.99 that I put holes into to check rotor phasing.

A note of the air filter fitting with the drop base, the fuel fittings and part of the regulator are right at the top of the EFI unit.
If there is hood clearance, you could use a 1/4" or 1/2" carb to filter spacer. My air filter clearance is fairly tight, so I am planning to modify the filter base for clearance.
 
For cost reference, this is replacing a Mallory 250 pump ($471.95), Mallory 500 filter ($199.95), Mallory bypass regulator ($127.95), and a Quick Fuel 1,000 cfm E-85 carb ($978.95).
Total for old system without distributor = $1,778.80 vs. 1,928.09 for the EFI, pump and filter, Difference of $149.29

Figure the same costs for distributor, and a bit more cost to plumb the carb with larger -8 an lines. Pretty much a wash price wise?
 
I hope to get time tomorrow to finish the wiring, and take the car out to see how it self-tunes.
On the ignition, I may set all the break points to 30-degrees like a locked-out dist, and then adjust the dist to make sure it is 30 BTDC with the timing light, at different RPMs. There is a setting for timing at 4,000 RPM (VR Advance 4000) that needs to be set to compensate for the Distributor pickup inductive delay.
 
For cost reference, this is replacing a Mallory 250 pump ($471.95), Mallory 500 filter ($199.95), Mallory bypass regulator ($127.95), and a Quick Fuel 1,000 cfm E-85 carb ($978.95).
Total for old system without distributor = $1,778.80 vs. 1,928.09 for the EFI, pump and filter, Difference of $149.29

Figure the same costs for distributor, and a bit more cost to plumb the carb with larger -8 an lines. Pretty much a wash price wise?
Your post has me scared for my wallet now. Im building a 440 so the costs are racking up. Looks like I can save upwards of $600+ by going new carb over EFI. Something like a 800 QF or Holley. I wouldnt have to change my mechanical pump or make a return to the tank. Ugh, things to think about.
 
Costs for both systems are all over the place, depends on what your trying to do.
The Holley Sniper master kit (up to 650 HP?) looks pretty complete with TBI Injection, pump, filter, hoses and fittings for $1,250
https://www.amazon.com/Holley-Snipe...&sr=8-1&keywords=holley+sniper+efi+master+kit.

On my 505" stroker in the Coronet, I originally used a Carter HV mechanical pump, RPM intake, and Holley Ultra Avenger 770 cfm carb that with a little tuning ran pretty good. Over the years I have spent many hundreds of dollars on carb tuning parts also, jets, power valves, accelerator pump cams, vacuum secondary springs, accelerator pump nozzles, air bleeds, gaskets, quick change fuel bowls, and for the Carter/Edelbrock carbs, metering rods and step-up springs. That stuff add up too.

I haven't worked on the car since last week, I have been doing taxes :(
I should get back on it this weekend.
 
Sniper-995 Summit or Jegs and if your military or veteran, they give a discount.
 
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