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Cooling not worth a SH!T

Good work. I’m with you, I’m all for giving the oem type stuff a try, but in the end, it’s the electric fans that keep me relaxed in traffic in 85* weather.
 
Well covered all the bases it looks like i have couple of questions. Have you turn on your heater while it is idling and see if the temperature drops down. Next with the cap off engine running is the coolant even flowing. I had a pump wheel that would skip or not work while at idle and at road speeds it would be fine only because of the forced air. Had to lock pump in vise then pulled on the impellers only to find out it was slipping. I have also had the suck shut but tat was a different problem. If you have done all this sorry for takin up your time. The only other thing i can say is put heat probes on top and bottom of radiator and on the pump and both heads. Could you be pumping compression into coolant system but when this happens it shoots coolant out the overfull. The dumpest off all is the rad cap what pressure is it. You said your dad has the same build have you went over his again to match up everything just a thouht
 
It was low speed/idle airflow issue. Everything was spot on, just not enough airflow. The Derale dual fan set up drop the temps in quick hurry, so now it’s cooling as it should.
 
Wish I would have given my input, a simple pusher fan would have worked great here with your clutch fan setup and you could have retained your power steering. My previous RB motor cooled great with an 18" mechanical fan (no clutch / no shroud), of course, it quickly was removed after I watched Engine Masters lose over 30-horsepower running one. I've been running the Jaguar clutch fan assembly for awhile now, and it's not even close at low engine speed. Electric pusher fan is mandatory, I too originally replaced one of my clutches thinking it was just a single, faulty unit. Happy you found a solution.
 
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Wish I would have given my input, a simple pusher fan would have worked great here with your clutch fan setup and you could have retained your power steering. My previous RB motor cooled great with an 18" mechanical fan (no clutch / no shroud), of course, it quickly was removed after I watched Engine Masters lose over 30-horsepower running one. I've been running the Jaguar clutch fan assembly for awhile now, and it's not even close at low engine speed. Electric pusher fan is mandatory, I too originally replaced one of my clutches thinking it was just a single, faulty unit. Happy you found a solution.
I watched that engine masters video yesterday. I ordered an elec. fan,shroud,and am going to try the 3000 cfm elec. fan that wouldn`t keep my 505 cool when I first started it, w/o a shroud. Hoping now that it`s close to being broke in and tuned a little better, that it might do the trick now. Especially since I have a 15" booster fan in front now too. The 17" mech.fan w/ my highly reworked alum shroud was working pretty good, but U know, the horse power bug still bites !
Will post results-------------
 
Your better off with 2 fans or a 2 speed fan than a single speed single fan. I have a new Volvo 2 speed (same as the Taurus) with the Volvo relay and fuse that I can’t use in my dart due to there being very little room. That fan is a monster!! Damn thing pulls something in the neighborhood of 4500cfm when on full boogie. If you find that you need more cooling, I’ll make ya a hell of a deal.
 
Your better off with 2 fans or a 2 speed fan than a single speed single fan. I have a new Volvo 2 speed (same as the Taurus) with the Volvo relay and fuse that I can’t use in my dart due to there being very little room. That fan is a monster!! Damn thing pulls something in the neighborhood of 4500cfm when on full boogie. If you find that you need more cooling, I’ll make ya a hell of a deal.
You talking to me ? If so, I will have 2 fans , one in front now, the other will be in the new shroud I`m waiting on. Should be here today. What ''DEAL'' ?--------BOB
 
You or anyone else that might need a fan.
 
The Derale dual fan set up that I bought on eBay (used) quit working properly. It had the PWM controller and when power/ground are connected to power, the fans turn on. They shouldn’t do this till the temp is what you’ve set it at. So I called Derale and the tech guy had me do a few tests. He says that there is good/bad news.

The good is that the controller is working as if should, the bad is that the temp sensor is FUBAR. So he says that they have a new/improved temp sensor and which would I like? The old style or new and hot? I picked the latest/greatest and get this.......Derale is sending the new style to me for FREE! No money from me even though I told them I bought it used. Still no problem! So it should be here tomorrow and all they asked from me is to call them back and give them feedback on it.

This goes a long with me, they didn’t need to do that and could’ve charged me for it. So Derale has my business from on out.
 
As of today I still haven’t received the new temp sensor. Gonna call tomorrow morning and see what’s going on.
 
Got the new temp sensor on Wednesday and found out the controller is bad, so I ordered a new from Summit, will get everything buttoned up after I test them out.
 
If it's not one thing it's always something else right? Frustrating to see you called the tech line and they were incorrect on your specific issue :rolleyes:
 
Yeah, but they were nice enough to send a new upgraded temp sensor.
 
Controller is in and I bench tested everything, it’s working properly now. So I installed everything back in and getting my new gauge cluster fitted in the dash. Once that’s done, I’ll fire it up and report back the results.
 
Could you tell me how much room you had between your radiator and the water pump pulley please?

I have about 3 and 1/2 inches and I was wondering if these would fit.
Thanks
 
I had about 3 inches, not enough room for the clutch fan set up so I moved the radiator back 1/2” and with the thickness of the radiator flange it gave me a tad over 5/8”. The Derale dual fan set up is 4” thick total and it sits on the core with rubber guard around the bottom of the shroud (so it doesn’t have metal to metal contact).

I have about 1/4” or more between the shroud and water pump pulley.
 
Thanks
I have a Champion 3 row radiator so I might be S.O.L There is no moving this radiator back(toward the front of the car).
I might be better off going with the radiator you have and starting over.
 
You can move it, the lip of the core support has to be cut off and then “slots” made so the radiator flange can slide behind it. I understand some people don’t want to do that, but that is the only way to move it......or cut the flange off the radiator and move it forward but that will only net you a 1/4” or so.
 
You can move it, the lip of the core support has to be cut off and then “slots” made so the radiator flange can slide behind it. I understand some people don’t want to do that, but that is the only way to move it......or cut the flange off the radiator and move it forward but that will only net you a 1/4” or so.

Well the 16' fan is sold, wouldn`t work, no clearance. Have reworked the fan shroud for 2 / 14" elec fans, am going to install today I hope. The offset 14' top fan clears the pump pulley bolt about 1/4". Wish it was more, but am not bent out of shape over it w/ the engine on a motor plate, and a for/aft tiedown on it. The bottom 14" fan had to be outside the shroud a little on the pass. side and on the bottom. Had to make and weld some alum sheet parts to seal it so it would suck thru the rad. only.
This is the first time I tried welding alum. w/ a spool gun on my mig welder. I have found NO information at all on using one on sheet alum. , all the info I found is on 1/8" and heavier. I got it but it aint the prettiest, guess I`ll paint it flat black to make it look better. Still have to wire the new fans up. The two 14" pullers will be on fan circuit # 1 , the 15"pusher will be on fan circuit # 2. More to come --------------
 
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